Got problems after changing my brakes.
#1
#2
You need someone to physically come and help you. the internet isn't going to give you all the answers.
But 1st, why did you bleed the rears if you didn't replace rear lines or wheel cylinders?
why did you replace the front calipers?
What proceedure did you use to bleed the brakes? do you know the correct method?
did your run the master cylinder out of fluid during this process?
did you install the hoses properly and verify there are no leaks?
But 1st, why did you bleed the rears if you didn't replace rear lines or wheel cylinders?
why did you replace the front calipers?
What proceedure did you use to bleed the brakes? do you know the correct method?
did your run the master cylinder out of fluid during this process?
did you install the hoses properly and verify there are no leaks?
#3
I had help. I bled the rear brakes just because I ran out of options. It could not hurt. I changed the calipers because the ruber around the pistons were torn. I was just going to change the pads. Yes I know the right procedures to bleed brakes and yes we followed the procedures. No I did not run the master cylinder out of fluid. I installed the hoses properly, actually it would be real hard to do otherwise due to the bend in the hose end. I checked for leaking brake fluid around the hoses and did not see any.
#4
well sounds like you have all the answers so what did you do wrong?
personally I wouldn't have replaced the calipers just because the dust boots were torn, just replace the boots. if they don't leak and they don't stick... but that's water over the dam.
So how exactly did you bleed the brakes? the sequence, proceedure, etc. tell us EVERYTHING EXACTLY as you did it so we can eliminate any possibility of operator error.
as for installing hoses incorrectly, if you don't have leaks then your ok... but i've seen a lot of people think they did it right but had extra washers that were not used on the banjo fitting and it leaked. but you obviously are experienced enough to know that.
Oh and if you or your helper mashed the brake pedal to the floor duing this process, the master cylinder may have been comprimised
personally I wouldn't have replaced the calipers just because the dust boots were torn, just replace the boots. if they don't leak and they don't stick... but that's water over the dam.
So how exactly did you bleed the brakes? the sequence, proceedure, etc. tell us EVERYTHING EXACTLY as you did it so we can eliminate any possibility of operator error.
as for installing hoses incorrectly, if you don't have leaks then your ok... but i've seen a lot of people think they did it right but had extra washers that were not used on the banjo fitting and it leaked. but you obviously are experienced enough to know that.
Oh and if you or your helper mashed the brake pedal to the floor duing this process, the master cylinder may have been comprimised
#5
After changing the pads and caliper my friend pumped the brakes and would hold the pedal down until I opened the bleeder valve/nut or what ever you call it. This process was done until there was no more air coming out. I have changed calipers and pads before and have done this the same way all the time. I have even done a dodge durango (wifes truck) which also has an ABS system. Completed the same procedures with no problems for years. I am totally lost.
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#8
A simple trick to try is to remove one brake line and put a plug in that one and gently press the brake pedal. If the pedal quickly firms up then that side of the master cylinder is good. Now reconnect the first and try the second line. If on either one you can mash the pedal a good ways then the master cylinder if at fault. If both lines are firm then try to bleed the ABS unit. Does your van have front ABS? Was there a electrical line that goes to both your front rotor backing plate? If so then look under the battery for the front ABS unit. Not sure if there are bleeder ports on it but if so then bleed it.
#9
this is brakes, there's nothing new, revolutionary or unique about your van over the millions of cars, trucks, vans that have been on the road for the past 70 years.
I don't think you did the proceedure of bleeding 100% correct. because if your friend let off the brake at all before you tightened the bleeder valve/nut or what ever you call it, you won't get the air out.
since you messed with the back, you may be in for a world of long bleeding.
you've already assured all of us that you know what your doing, you didn't let the master go dry at all... sure doesn't make any sense. but it's true that you may need to reset the combination valve, however this usually doesn't result in the pedal going to the floor.
I don't think you did the proceedure of bleeding 100% correct. because if your friend let off the brake at all before you tightened the bleeder valve/nut or what ever you call it, you won't get the air out.
since you messed with the back, you may be in for a world of long bleeding.
you've already assured all of us that you know what your doing, you didn't let the master go dry at all... sure doesn't make any sense. but it's true that you may need to reset the combination valve, however this usually doesn't result in the pedal going to the floor.
#10
OMG The passenger side would not push out the fuid as fast as the driver side would. I was woundering if it was a bad caliper. My brakes were weak so I deceided to change the pads. Could it have been the master cylinder all along and when I changed the caliper it just took out the MC the rest of the way?