NOTE: TITLE SHOULD SAY "UNDER THE HOOD"
Ok, so a while back i posted an issue with the heater. well, since then i fixed the heater and have moved from the central US to the east coast. While en-route, I blew a head gasket and cracked both heads shortly thereafter. I left it at a mechanic in MO and am having my father update me.
According to him and the mechanic, the heads of the 5.9L are pretty thin and my understanding is that this is a common issue with this engine. Anyway, apparently the top end was pretty well moisturized and there is concern for the bottom end. im not rich, and i have very little desire to have the bottom end fully inspected. the head gasket and heads are costing me $1100 to have replaced. My question is... is the lower end built better than the heads? I mean, can the lower end parts withstand a little more abuse than that?
It wasnt driven all that far and i never allowed the engine to heat up past mid point (210). Is it worth it for me to have all this work done? Or will she blow apart halfway from MO to VA? What do you guys think?

Personally, I dont think the bearings saw that much water and whatever moisture may be down there could get absorbed into a series of oil changes, or dump a couple gallons of mineral spirits down in there, pull the plug, allow to dry, add oil and see what happens.

 

In 99 out a 100 cases, when a head gasket blows and the heads crack, it's a cylinder to cooling system issue and has nothing to do with the crankcase or oil. The oil helps to keep the bearings cool so they usually do not overheat that quickly when the cooling system is compromised. There's also an outside chance the mechanic is telling you the heads are cracked just to up his bill. This depends greatly on how hot the engine got and how long you continued to drive it.

How many miles on the engine?
How long did you continue to drive it when it was overheating?

 

the engine has 175k. initially, the problem began with a plug wire that shorted out when it hit the header and melted through. it was driven approximately 95mi in that condition, as we were in the middle of nowhere and had no access to a parts store. from the time the check engine light went from steady to flashing, assuming that is when the heads cracked, about 55mi were driven. all miles accrued were driven with a 24ft camper attached. according to my father, he has seen the cracks that were circled or lined out on the heads, so that part is confirmed by family.

also, when we initially reached our first destination, and discovered these problems, the oil had a small amount of water content, a very light orange color was noted, but nothing as chalky as what would cause the white smoke. after starting and stopping the engine several times to confirm that we cleared each code, the top side revealed a significant amount of water content, and the milky appearance had worsened. the drive to the mechanic from where we were working the repairs was about 1/2mi or so.

what advice do you offer from this? thanks!!!

**Edit... also, just a reminder, the engine, according to the gauge, never overheated at the 270 point or whatever it is, just began to get warmer and usually didnt break the 210-230 marker. the vehicle never reached red-line the entire time.

 

No, don't fix the heads... The exsiting heads were not working and the bottom end of the engine was adapting to run, Now when you add new heads and up the compression, your screwed, if rings can't handel the increased compression.

The top end of the engine will new be newer than the bottom end, now the bottom end is the weak link.

I would put in a reman fact engine, than you have a 100% new engine.

 

thanks cyclone, i will put that into strong consideration. now my only issue is that i have one person saying it may work out and one saying lost cause. crap. anyone else have any feedback to agree with either cyclone or alloro? any input on this would be greatly appreciated!!! thank you

 

I had my LA 318 engine rebuilt at 172 k miles. There was one cracked head, but no oil contamination. The guy that did the tear down said the bottom end looked real good. I might have just been able to replace the head and get more out of It. It was burning oil, like 1.5 quarts every 2 k miles. Hard to say.

I paid around 2800 dollars for mine to be rebuilt in pricey southern California, with a new head and radiator adding to the 2500 estimate. If I had it to do over I wold have bought a rebuilt engine from a reputable place and had it installed, for the same price, but a better warranty, with less re used parts.

If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while, I'd go for a newly rebuilt engine.
JMHO.

 

well, unfortunately for me, my van is sitting in a small town at a small town mechanic that quit doing rebuilds. my options are limited...

take the heads, and hope the bottom end lasts at least 1200mi while towing

cancel the work order, sell the van and camper and buy something else that runs

i cant afford a rebuild or anything for a full replacement. i just finished school in nov (pipe welder), moved last month (2wk roadtrip to see family), and have just settled this month. my wife is a service member and i cant start working until i have a vehicle, hence the reason i am trying to be as sure as possible with my decision making. and i dont want anyone here to feel responsible if they say its all good and the van blows enroute. im looking for experience to talk to me and some advice to help me decide what to do with my money, as i need to be careful with it. ultimately, its my choice and i will let you know in the end. thanks all. any other advice or experience on this one?

 

This is a problem. A flashing CEL means there is enough raw fuel going into the exhaust system to destroy your catalytic converter. If you only drove a few miles with it flashing I wouldn't think twice about it, but 55 miles...that's a lot. Factor in that you might need to replace the CC no matter what you do about the engine.


Were there any funny noises coming from the bottom end, knocking, tapping, banging, etc? If not I'll stand by my earlier recommendation that the lower end is fine. Replacing the heads does not effect the lower end. With the old heads you had compression and vacuum, with the new heads you'll have the same compression and vacuum (burnt valves aside). You will up the compression if rebuilt heads are installed, where the heads were shaved to flatten out any warpage. But further still, any good shop would mark how much was shaved off and you can install a shim the same thickness. By using a shim your original compression is not raised.

 

What's he charging you for the cost of the heads?
Are they new or rebuilt?
Would he let you supply your own if you can find them for less money?

 

well, the heads are $190/ea, and they are reman heads. Mine that cracked go into the front door of the supplier, and i get 2 that are finished and coming out the back door.

to answer your question, no tapping, banging, knocking, grinding or otherwise. in fact, that entire 95mi duration, the only differences were CEL on (which flashed 40mi later), and the fact that around that same time frame, my fuel economy went out the door, but the mech tells me thats most likely from head gasket going and that no 5 cly not firing while towing. whats your thought?

the guy that is working this project has a strong reputation, and is known state wide. he has built a number of performance track vehicles and i have worked with him before. i trust that he wont screw that up.