Maybe a dumb question but maybe I'm missing something!

I've just flushed and cleaned my cooling system ('93 B250 318). I took off the heater core 'in' hose and stuck a hose pipe in and flushed until clean water came out of top of radiator. Then I ran it the other way through water pump.

Then I pulled the bottom radiator hose and drained. Not sure how much came out but maybe 10 litres?

Now I re-connected everything and started filling up the radiator and got to about 9 litres of antifreeze mix and then the radiator was full. I thought the capacity was about 18 litres or am I way off the mark? I've got the rear heater unit too.

I though I might not have drained it all and now I'm not sure what the mix is...?

thanks

Wilbo.

 

The engine block will retain some "flush water" unless you unscrew the pipe plugs in the sides of the casting and allow it to drain out. Sounds like you have retained some -- a very common occurrence.

Drain your block if you want to measure a new coolant fill accurately.

I tend to get a bit picky about coolant, so bear with me on this... If you really want to do the best job possible you should be using distilled water in your coolant mix. I would assume the pre-mixed 50/50 stuff uses properly PH balanced water, but if you are mixing your own 100% straight coolant with water do yourself a big favor and use distilled water.

The copper parts in your van will thank you.

 

You can also use compressed air or a shopvac (configured to blow) to push the water out of the engine. I usually blow the air into the heater core hoses or where the t-stat goes into the intake. This won't get every single drop out, but it will get you enough room for 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of antifreeze in the system.

 

thanks guys, that's improved my sanity. I though I might have a 'really' bunged up system. I did use a 2-part engine flush product and the stuff that came out on the first flush was pretty disgusting

So, those plugs are the really, really rusty ones next to the engine mount? I'll give them a go but failing that it sounds like I'll have to push the water out - probably the best way for the rear heater and pipes as well.

Oh, and roughly how much should I expect to put in - as I say my manual say 16.6 quarts without the rear heater. That sounds like I left a lot of water in the engine block??

thanks again

Wilbo

 

You need to get about 2-1/4 gallons of AF into the engine and radiator to get a 50/50 mix. Don't forget to also do a 50/50 mix in the overflow bottle, which is NOT a part of the 2-1/4 gallons measurement.

 

If you flushed with tap water, be forewarned that internal corrosion to the engine, radiator, freeze plugs, water pump, T-stat and other metal sensitive components. Tap water contains all kinds of things that greatly deplete the corrosion inhibitors in a glycol mixture.

Two types of water are ideal to use. Distilled Water or RO water. Both can be found at your local grocery or Wal*Mart type stores.

Spring water will not work due to it having the same or more minerals as tap water.

 

Thanks for the info - what's the view on Deionised water? It's a bit more tricky and expensive to get distilled water in bulk in the UK (for some crazy reason), I can get deionised water at my local garage though. Do you think a flush by tap water should be followed by a flush by (distilled/RO/DI) water? I don't think I need to go over the top by then again for a few dollars I think it's worth it and don't mind spending the time.

My neighbours think I'm a bit crazy with various bits of hosepipe coming out of the engine bay, especially when I forgot which one water would come out of when I turned the tap on

 

DI water would work as well as distilled water. It's rather has to get DI water here in the states.

 

This advice sounds vaguely familiar.... oh yeah, that's what I said up above. Imagine that.