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I can't figure out why I am misfiring help please !

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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #11  
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Save yourself time, aggravation and money and just buy the complete module. Just buying the pump means that you will still have to buy the filter and pressure check valve and pull it all apart which might lead to something breaking on the module housing. Then you have to worry about the sending unit and fuel pressure regulator going bad.

Many have found buying the Dodge OEM unit was a better choice then aftermarket. Some of us have found that the Airtex units are now better built and holding up fine. Mine is 14 months old now and still going strong. Two other Airtex units are now going on three years, one of those in a Dodge van.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #12  
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There is no way a Fuel pump will cause only 1 bank to mis-fire. your car should either dies out or mis-fire on all cylinder, not just 1 bank.
your car only have 1 upstream O2 sensor, unlike that newer car that has 1 each bank, so you can take it out of the picture.
The problem is most likely the Head, I highly recommend a Compression test if you have the tool. Also, try tracing the Wiring loom for the Fuel injector on the 1-3-5 bank. (left bank), see if you can find a Chaffed wiring for the injector.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by steak59
There is no way a Fuel pump will cause only 1 bank to mis-fire.
Try to keep up!

In post #3 of this thread he said, "Also its really hard to start in the morning just keeps turning over". This is why the topic switch to a fuel pump replacement, not because of the misfire issue.
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #14  
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Ok so today I attempted to change the fuel pump and I wasn't able to get the j bolts loosened. I tried penetrant and a lot of leverage, there was just too much rust so I cut them off and I'm going to just buy new ones but now I have a different problem. I have the straps out of the way and I was trying to lower it but the fuel hose from where you fill it up won't disconnect. The part where it goes through frame of the car? I can't figure it out. I heard there were supposed to be two snaps you push and then it releases but I didn't see them or feel thwm. I'm at a loss... and I'm not an idiot there are two tiny oval holes where a snap could have went but nothing....thanks for any help
 
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #15  
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Those holes are the snaps. Try using a awl (or other fine point object) to push in on them to release the fill/vent unit from the frame.
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #16  
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Ok so I changed the fuel pump got it started and she started right up multiple times I was soo happy thought we got it right. then I turned it off and let it sit for a while, about an hour. When I got in to start it up and go it started doing the same thing all over again, just turning over n over. After a few seconds and me hitting the gas it finally went but the check engine light came right on again for the misfires. Then I got it back home shut it off and started it up four times and it started just fine. I'm at a loss I want this problem gone and I'm sick of putting so much money into this problem! Help anyone
 
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:44 PM
  #17  
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From your description it seems at the hard start problem from the fuel pump is fixed.

On the misfire, does it do it after starting or only while starting up? Also did it have the same cylinders again when you read the codes? Have you checked and/or replaced the ignition coil yet?
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 02:16 AM
  #18  
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So I have this happen on my 96 but on a cold engine. What I have put it down to is the torque convertor not kicking in before you shut down the engine. so try keeping your foot on the brake until it comes to a complete stop and changes into the lowest gear. I don't think it is an engine for multiple starts. so if you are getting a few in a row then go with that an dlet it run once it is started, you may find your problems fix.
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #19  
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I've never changed the ignition coil. How would I check that? It does it while trying to start but won't actually start. It winds up draining my battery in about 4 or 5 turn overall then I have to wait for my battery to charge up. I didn't reread the codes bc I couldn't get my hands on the computer yet
 
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Old May 6, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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Battery should not do that, it should have more CCA (Cold cranking Amps) than a few turns. Also how far do you drive the vehicle it may just need a long drive and some cleaning additives. I have done that with several friends cars and they become good.
 
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