My 2003 ram van is having idle problems when the engine is warmed up. When the engine is hot, the van won't idle. Starts right up, but I have to keep one foot on the gas and one on the brake to drive it. I cleaned the IAC after the great instructions on the sight, but no change. Read many threads, but I am confused where to start. One thread said they finally repaired their van by changing out a sensor that was on the passenger side of the van in the firewall but I can't find the thread again. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Since cleaning it didn't solve the problem, you need to replace it. They do go bad and cleaning won't solve the idle issue in such a case.

 

Thanks for the reply. Does 53030657AC sound right for the part#? I have a 3.9L

 

Where did you get that number, off the part or off a website?

Here's the list over at Rockauto and the bottom one has the same OEM part number that you listed. Others might too, so poke around a bit by clicking the INFO buttons there.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=6072

 

One trick to try before replaceing it is called "the finger trick":

Memeber Stev (who wrote the IAC cleaning thread also posted this):
"Per the advise of another Dodge forum on the internet, a DCX service tech, to me to give the TB the finger. After that all the problems went away. Well, this is a finger treatment you give to the IAC with the engine running at idle. Placing your index finger over the air-inlet port to the IAC on the TB, carefully and slowly choke off the air going into the port until the engine nearly stalls out. I did this several times since the IAC was pulsating. At the last time, I totally choked off the IAC until the engine stalled. This made the IAC to draw all the way back within it’s sensor housing. (NOTE: this is done only with the IAC mounted on the TB.)

The next step is critical. Take the negative battery terminal off for 2 mins. DO NOT touch the key until the 2 mins have passed.!!!! Now, turn the key off and reconnect the negative battery cable. This resets not only the PCM, but the other sensors for the TB.

Now, the final step was to turn the key back on for 5 seconds prior to a full start crank over. The IAC when it had stalled the engine from running drew all the way back in travel. Upon restarting, and waiting for the five seconds, I heard two distinct cracking noises from the IAC in movement as it went into it's position. Did this fix a sticky IAC or what was the finger trick suppose to do???

At first, I thought the advice was a little ! BUT, with nothing to loose, I tried it. Not only did this wacky procedure work, but the engine behaves far better than when I had originally purchased it. It worked so well, that stomping on the pedal from a dead stop now lays a 15 foot streak of rubber on the street! The van NEVER did that before since I’ve owned it! I thought, what did this finger thing ?!?!?"

 

Yes I did get the part number off the IAC in my van. I will definitely try giving my van the finger this week!! Thanks

 

Is it okay to get a non OEM part to replace the IAC if I have to?

 

Yes. I am not having any problems with the sensors that I have replaced on mine from my favorite parts store. Let me correct that, only the O2 sensors I am having problems with but that is because I used Bosch and our PCM's don't like them.

 

If the IAC is replaced and the problem exists, do the "finger" trick. If that doesn't do anything, then replace the TPS on the driver side of the TB.

Also do the key dance off/on 3-times leaving on without the engine starting. The trip OD will display codes or flash sequence codes for you to write down. Come back and post the code here.

 

Tried the finger trick today on the IAC. Sorry to say it did not work. I ordered a new IAC. If that does not work I will do what was suggested with the TBS and check the codes. Thanks So Much for the help.