stumped
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 933
Likes: 1
From: South Kentucky
No known issues with this that I could find online. Mine runs smoothly today (knock wood). However there are numerous reports of misfires with these Dodge truck and van engines of all sizes so I am concerned.
When I changed my plugs at 105k miles I found carbon buildup in the threads to be negligible. I stand by my recommendation to skip the anti-seize. Pull your plugs once a year to check engine condition and then torque to the specification. If you can't get the plug to thread easily use silicone spray, it burns off.
I am using top of the line Autozone wires and Autozone distributer cap/rotor with brass contacts. 14 months, no issues.
When I changed my plugs at 105k miles I found carbon buildup in the threads to be negligible. I stand by my recommendation to skip the anti-seize. Pull your plugs once a year to check engine condition and then torque to the specification. If you can't get the plug to thread easily use silicone spray, it burns off.
I am using top of the line Autozone wires and Autozone distributer cap/rotor with brass contacts. 14 months, no issues.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Another item to realize is, the TSB talks about the wire looms. It is very important to use these and not to lay the wires along the engine. As our vans get older, those wire looms break off or are discarded. These parts are very important so as not to have any grounding or arcing effects to the engine.
Below is a Mopar kit for the V6 and V8 engines.
Below is a Mopar kit for the V6 and V8 engines.
I am having a hard time finding them online...
There is a Brass bushing that the distributor sits in. After we get so many miles on our Dodge vans that bushing wears. Once it wears it affects the rotation of the distributor shaft and is known to cause a miss. I just ordered one for my 5.2 and it was $12.00 from the dealer. While I cannot specifically say this is related to your specific issues, its worth a look.
Jason
Jason
RockAuto Parts is usually pretty helpful but I can't find just the bearing itself...
I'm trying multiple new things to get rid of the CEL as the shop was no help. I already re-routed the plug wires but for the wire leading from the coil to the cap, I had to lay it on top because I couldn't find the little single wire clips...
Thanks,
Bill
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, CA
Although my van is the 5.2 I have and will always use Nickle Anti-Seize on every spark plug I will ever install no matter what engine or material the head is. I do not nor ever have had any issues other than easy removal and never a stripped or carbon built up thread. This is just my personal experience and I am sure many others have the same beliefs. I never screw anything together without either Anti-Seize, nickel or copper, or Loctite 222 Threadlocker. Using Nickle Anti_seize on a Spark Plug thread will in no way disturb the flow of electrons since nickle is conductive. As far as Torquing, true Nickle Anti-Seize will change the way something tightens up, it will allow the proper stretch to occur rather than metal galling to occur which masks and prevents a true torque. Ever inspect the surface of a spark plugs threads to see the galling that occurs on a dry install? imagine that a few times in your head and theres not much metal left.
To clean carbon, I would suggest something far cheaper and actually works, Easy Off oven cleaning. All the rest of the snake oils are pretty much useless, I learned this cleaning gun parts, Easy Off works wonders.
Chasing threads with a tap of any kind in a head is kind of scary to me, I would fear one single chunk of metal getting cut and falling into the combustion chamber, the getting lodged between a cylinder wall and piston.
On the Spark plug sheathing I use a Ultra-High Temperature Ceramic Sleeving over my spark plug boots that I buy from McMaster-Carr, the wires themselves are silicone made by Belkin sold at Napa with a lifetime warranty, so when they get crispy I simply trade them in for a new set. they usually last about 3-4 years.
To clean carbon, I would suggest something far cheaper and actually works, Easy Off oven cleaning. All the rest of the snake oils are pretty much useless, I learned this cleaning gun parts, Easy Off works wonders.
Chasing threads with a tap of any kind in a head is kind of scary to me, I would fear one single chunk of metal getting cut and falling into the combustion chamber, the getting lodged between a cylinder wall and piston.
On the Spark plug sheathing I use a Ultra-High Temperature Ceramic Sleeving over my spark plug boots that I buy from McMaster-Carr, the wires themselves are silicone made by Belkin sold at Napa with a lifetime warranty, so when they get crispy I simply trade them in for a new set. they usually last about 3-4 years.
This could leave you single and childless in life! 
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 2
From: Nashville
Do the same for lug-nuts. Apply a fine film of anti-seize to each stud.
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 2
From: Nashville
Universal Fit Spark Plug Wire Loom
Universal Fit Spark Plug Wire Loom works with 7 mm–8 mm wire. Includes (4) 1/4" mounting studs (20 tpi).
P5007481 Mopar Universal Fit Spark Plug Wire Loom
Several on the web ...
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_p...e_ignition.htm
Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007481
JEGS
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performa...07481/10002/-1
best price $20
http://www.monicattichrysler.com/com...idProduct=1221
dealer price ... $20.
http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/...idproduct=-653
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 2
From: Nashville
Never had one become loose. The Dodge lugs nuts are flared seated to the rims.
Anyways, I did dig up the Mopar loom set he was looking for. 123