stumped
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 62
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Worked at a tire store once. We used anti-seez on every lug, and torqued'em all. Never had a stuck lug from our shop, and never had one come loose. Use to have cars towed in all the time with the stuck lug nuts put on by other tire stores. When they are put on dry, the heat and corrosion can make'em a bear to get off.
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Although my van is the 5.2 I have and will always use Nickle Anti-Seize on every spark plug I will ever install no matter what engine or material the head is. I do not nor ever have had any issues other than easy removal and never a stripped or carbon built up thread. This is just my personal experience and I am sure many others have the same beliefs. I never screw anything together without either Anti-Seize, nickel or copper, or Loctite 222 Threadlocker. Using Nickle Anti_seize on a Spark Plug thread will in no way disturb the flow of electrons since nickle is conductive. As far as Torquing, true Nickle Anti-Seize will change the way something tightens up, it will allow the proper stretch to occur rather than metal galling to occur which masks and prevents a true torque. Ever inspect the surface of a spark plugs threads to see the galling that occurs on a dry install? imagine that a few times in your head and theres not much metal left.
To clean carbon, I would suggest something far cheaper and actually works, Easy Off oven cleaning. All the rest of the snake oils are pretty much useless, I learned this cleaning gun parts, Easy Off works wonders.
Chasing threads with a tap of any kind in a head is kind of scary to me, I would fear one single chunk of metal getting cut and falling into the combustion chamber, the getting lodged between a cylinder wall and piston.
On the Spark plug sheathing I use a Ultra-High Temperature Ceramic Sleeving over my spark plug boots that I buy from McMaster-Carr, the wires themselves are silicone made by Belkin sold at Napa with a lifetime warranty, so when they get crispy I simply trade them in for a new set. they usually last about 3-4 years.
To clean carbon, I would suggest something far cheaper and actually works, Easy Off oven cleaning. All the rest of the snake oils are pretty much useless, I learned this cleaning gun parts, Easy Off works wonders.
Chasing threads with a tap of any kind in a head is kind of scary to me, I would fear one single chunk of metal getting cut and falling into the combustion chamber, the getting lodged between a cylinder wall and piston.
On the Spark plug sheathing I use a Ultra-High Temperature Ceramic Sleeving over my spark plug boots that I buy from McMaster-Carr, the wires themselves are silicone made by Belkin sold at Napa with a lifetime warranty, so when they get crispy I simply trade them in for a new set. they usually last about 3-4 years.
