95 Ram Van 5.2 - stalls at idle sometimes
I have a Dodge Ram Van with the 5.2 Magnum engine. It runs great except for one issue.
Occasionally it will go into a phase where it stalls at idle as if it is not receiving any fuel. The idle gets so low that it just dies.
When the van is cold it starts right up and runs fine. The problem only seems to arise when the motor is warm. It happens more on frequently on hot days. It is more prone to stall when I drive up hill in my neighborhood and then level off and stop gassing it. It stalls right away (sometimes, not always) as if gravity has pulled the fuel towards the back of the van and away from the motor where it is needed.
The check engine light (often or always, not sure) comes on when or before this is happening. A mechanic told me the code points to my #6 fuel injector. It may have an intermittent short in the electronics according to him. This injector is also the source of a rough idle when things are running fine.
I should also point out that my fuel gage does not work leading me to believe that my fuel sender unit needs to be replaced.
Thank you.
Occasionally it will go into a phase where it stalls at idle as if it is not receiving any fuel. The idle gets so low that it just dies.
When the van is cold it starts right up and runs fine. The problem only seems to arise when the motor is warm. It happens more on frequently on hot days. It is more prone to stall when I drive up hill in my neighborhood and then level off and stop gassing it. It stalls right away (sometimes, not always) as if gravity has pulled the fuel towards the back of the van and away from the motor where it is needed.
The check engine light (often or always, not sure) comes on when or before this is happening. A mechanic told me the code points to my #6 fuel injector. It may have an intermittent short in the electronics according to him. This injector is also the source of a rough idle when things are running fine.
I should also point out that my fuel gage does not work leading me to believe that my fuel sender unit needs to be replaced.
Thank you.
Last edited by nncoco; Jan 3, 2012 at 12:13 PM.
First things first ... Clean the IAC or replace it. Also clean the IAC port holes.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...n-the-iac.html
Next verify that the cap-n-rotor are good. Make sure they are of the copper/brass contact type else miss-fire codes pop up often.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...n-the-iac.html
Next verify that the cap-n-rotor are good. Make sure they are of the copper/brass contact type else miss-fire codes pop up often.
I did clean the IAC valve yesterday. It was very dirty. The port was cleaned too. After I put it together the stalling was bad but later it ran great. I need to drive it more to see if the problem returns.
The cap and rotor are new from Mopar. Is that made from the right materials?
The cap and rotor are new from Mopar. Is that made from the right materials?
Disconnect the battery for 10 minute and the idle problem should go away. The engine is trying to control the clean IAC based on the old learned parameters for the dirty IAC. Killing the power all erase the memory and start the learning process again.
Alloro is right about these Ram Van PCM computers. They re-learn the system components all over again after the battery power is drained from them.
Good News. The problem has not reoccurred all week. I think cleaning the IAC valve and resetting the computer was helpful.
I would suggest doing this service when you replace the air filter. It is very easy and take about 20 minutes to do.
I would suggest doing this service when you replace the air filter. It is very easy and take about 20 minutes to do.
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The stalling problem returned and persisted for many months, 11 months in all. I finally was able to repair it here's how:
1. Remove air cleaner and all sensors attached to the intake system.
2. Get a tooth brush, rags and a little clean transmission fluid.
3. Gently scrub and wipe away all areas and surfaces to remove old gasoline varnish. Be careful not to foul the tiny ports and contacts on the sensors. A lighter solvent is recommended for these areas such as toluene.
4. Wipe everything clean and reassemble.
I also got an air compressor and blew out dust from every place I would see under the hood and inside the engine compartment. (Note: I attend Burning Man and get a lot of nasty desert dust and dry lakebed salt sticking to the entire engine.)
Turn on ignition to accessory position and carefully unhook battery cable to reset computer. Leave off for 10 minutes and reattach. (WARNING: Risk of electric shock! Don't short it out either.)
This worked for me. Will it work for you? I don't know. Attempt at your own risk. Good luck.
1. Remove air cleaner and all sensors attached to the intake system.
2. Get a tooth brush, rags and a little clean transmission fluid.
3. Gently scrub and wipe away all areas and surfaces to remove old gasoline varnish. Be careful not to foul the tiny ports and contacts on the sensors. A lighter solvent is recommended for these areas such as toluene.
4. Wipe everything clean and reassemble.
I also got an air compressor and blew out dust from every place I would see under the hood and inside the engine compartment. (Note: I attend Burning Man and get a lot of nasty desert dust and dry lakebed salt sticking to the entire engine.)
Turn on ignition to accessory position and carefully unhook battery cable to reset computer. Leave off for 10 minutes and reattach. (WARNING: Risk of electric shock! Don't short it out either.)
This worked for me. Will it work for you? I don't know. Attempt at your own risk. Good luck.
This is a huge NO NO! Beside the fact that the spark induces a voltage spike that can fry the computer or any other on-board electronics, the spark can also ignite battery gases and cause it to explode.






