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Compression issue

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  #1  
Old 01-21-2012, 04:22 PM
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Default Compression issue

I have been having issues with oil consumption. I finally got the help and time to do a compression test. All but one of the cylinders fell between 150 & 170 PSI but one was down at 85. A little oil in that cylinder raised it to 110 so I'm assuming that I have bad rings. All the plugs are a uniform yellow though a couple have some deposit on them. Due to some other evidence I suspect that when the engine was repaired after one head cracked that the quality of the work was not up to spec. What I'm looking at now is getting a a long block for it. I can get a remanufactured one from O'Reily's for $1700 or pay an extra 500-600 for one that's referred to as a High Durability engine. My questions would be: is my theory of bad rings likely, does O'Reily's supply quality engines, and just what is a "High Durability engine" and is it worth the extra cost?

Thanks,
Michael Wagner

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Old 01-21-2012, 06:15 PM
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http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques056_1.html

Since your experienced a change in one cylinder it sound like you do have bad rings in that cylinder.

Did you replace the cracked head with a different one or did you just have the cracked one repaired?

I do not know anything about engines from O'Reily's supply. I would certain wonder what makes an engine more durable that it will cost you and extra $500-600 bucks for it.

Have you checked into just having your engine rebuilt? If you had your engine rebuilt, at least you would have an idea what parts went in it and it would give you a cost comparison.

Hope this helps

Jason
 

Last edited by ComicDom1; 01-21-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:39 PM
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I had my engine rebuilt at 172k miles, and while it runs nicely 30k miles later, I wonder how many steps they skipped in the name of their bottom line. It had a cracked head.


I suspect the reused the same roller camshaft with new lifters, although my receipt says "reconditioned camshaft". I also suspect they did not replace the camshaft bearings.

I did tell them that I was on a budget, but I would pay extra for better parts within reason, because I expected to keep the vehicle for a long time.

They used steel freeze plugs, and charged me for brass. How much money did that save them? I already had to replace two of them.

If you do rebuild, know, as best you can, what you are getting.

I do not know much about buying a long block, and cannot offer you a valid opinion. I'd check other automotive forums for a wider opinion in that department.
 
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:36 PM
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The head was replaced with one the prior owner got through eBay motors. I haven't looked into having it rebuilt. My challenge is the time it would take versus just swapping it out.

Originally Posted by ComicDom1
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques056_1.html

Since your experienced a change in one cylinder it sound like you do have bad rings in that cylinder.

Did you replace the cracked head with a different one or did you just have the cracked one repaired?

I do not know anything about engines from O'Reily's supply. I would certain wonder what makes an engine more durable that it will cost you and extra $500-600 bucks for it.

Have you checked into just having your engine rebuilt? If you had your engine rebuilt, at least you would have an idea what parts went in it and it would give you a cost comparison.

Hope this helps

Jason
 
  #5  
Old 01-22-2012, 02:46 PM
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What about Surefire, Marshall or Spartan remanufactured engines? Anyone have any experience with these?
 
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:44 PM
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Either way you go, you are going to have to drop the engine out whether you are doing a swap or a rebuild. Yes it will take some extra time to do the rebuild but at least you will have a better idea what you have. Your time schedule will be dependent on how fast the machining can be done and how fast the mechanic you hire can reassemble the motor before he puts it back in the van.


Just out of curiosity, I called the local o'rielly's just ask them to explain the difference between what their standard long block was versus their so called Durable Long Block. By the way I think Advanced auto does the same thing with the long blocks they sell as well.

O'rielly's in my area had absolutely no clue what the difference was so they could not tell me. They tried to suggest well one is more heavier built, so I asks them how.

I mean you would think they would tell you they are using heavier connecting rods, or better quality main bearings, or a balanced crankshaft or something but they were not able to tell me. So tomorrow I am going to call their home office and see if they can tell me.

Honestly, if they cannot tell you the difference in the engine build you are considering buying from them then why bother buying it.

I did notice the warranty appeared to be better on the so called durable engine but if there is no real difference in them, then again why bother.

I understand time is a consideration, but sometimes you can pay now or pay later. Its better to attempt to take a little more time and understand what you are really getting before you make a mistake you regret.

When it comes to rebuilding a motor or buying a rebuilt one, its important to know what brand of parts were used, what exactly was replaced, and who did the machining on the block. If you are going to use your heads, its important that investigate and make sure who ever does the machine work is good at what they do. Do not skimp on the quality of valves, springs, and/or any other parts that will be required.

Jason
 

Last edited by ComicDom1; 01-22-2012 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:39 PM
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I did some research myself and the remanufactured engines that Auto Zone sells states that the high durability engine has a completely redone valve train with new parts; rockers, bearings, springs, valves,. etc. In fact here's what they say:

"Hde engines feature all new valve train, including hardened valve seats, intake and exhaust valves, rocker arms and pivots, new camshaft, brass freeze plugs, no weld repair on blocks and heads, hypereutectic coated pistons, 1st repair size machining." Not sure what '1st repair size machining' means.

The cost there is about an additional $200 per head. Doesn't sound like that's too bad. As to parts they state that all parts are "brand names". When I asked the people at the O'Reilly's here they were no more knowledgeable then those on your end.

Michael


Originally Posted by ComicDom1
Either way you go, you are going to have to drop the engine out whether you are doing a swap or a rebuild. Yes it will take some extra time to do the rebuild but at least you will have a better idea what you have. Your time schedule will be dependent on how fast the machining can be done and how fast the mechanic you hire can reassemble the motor before he puts it back in the van.


Just out of curiosity, I called the local o'rielly's just ask them to explain the difference between what their standard long block was versus their so called Durable Long Block. By the way I think Advanced auto does the same thing with the long blocks they sell as well.

O'rielly's in my area had absolutely no clue what the difference was so they could not tell me. They tried to suggest well one is more heavier built, so I asks them how.

I mean you would think they would tell you they are using heavier connecting rods, or better quality main bearings, or a balanced crankshaft or something but they were not able to tell me. So tomorrow I am going to call their home office and see if they can tell me.

Honestly, if they cannot tell you the difference in the engine build you are considering buying from them then why bother buying it.

I did notice the warranty appeared to be better on the so called durable engine but if there is no real difference in them, then again why bother.

I understand time is a consideration, but sometimes you can pay now or pay later. Its better to attempt to take a little more time and understand what you are really getting before you make a mistake you regret.

When it comes to rebuilding a motor or buying a rebuilt one, its important to know what brand of parts were used, what exactly was replaced, and who did the machining on the block. If you are going to use your heads, its important that investigate and make sure who ever does the machine work is good at what they do. Do not skimp on the quality of valves, springs, and/or any other parts that will be required.

Jason
 
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:26 PM
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I opted for the remanufactured engine as downtime is a real serious factor. I'm hoping with the help of a couple mechanically inclined friends I can get the swap done in a weekend. Going the rebuild route could have me down 2-4 weeks and I wouldn't be able to deal with that.

Thanks for all the advise it was real helpful.

Michael Wagner
 
  #9  
Old 02-02-2012, 08:08 PM
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Wagner,

You might save some $ if you can locate a Jasper engine. They sell rotating assemblies (block, crank, pistons, heads) completely assembled and balanced etc. I always heard they had a good reputation. My gut says Autozone or O'Reilly will be a bit expensive. And you might be getting an American motor rebuilt in China.
 
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:18 AM
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Haven't seen that brand anywhere but due to time constraints I had to get a engine ordered. Surefire is was Holland company now residing in the US and they have ISO/TS 16949 certification. One can go to their own website for more specifics but everything is done in the US, not China (fortunately).
 



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