I going to be replacing the engine in my 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram Van (5.2 L, Automatic). I'm planning on doing it a week from this coming weekend. I was wondering if anyone has any words of wisdom I could profit from. I have the factory manual and I know how to spin a wrench but was wondering what pit falls, if any, I should watch out for.

TIA,
Michael Wagner

 

Remove the grill, ac condensor, radiator, and radiator support, and maybe the bumper. Also remove the air cleaner and intake plenum off of the engine. Disconnect all the wiring and fuel lines. Support the bottom of the transmission before removing the bolts. attach the hoist chain to the bolts that held the intake in place and it should come out fairly easy through the front of the vehicle. You may beable to leave the power steering pump in the van just move it closer to the battery tray for clearance.

Hope this helps.

 

Be very careful with the torque converter. Both removing it and putting back in. Its been a while since I have done this but it used to be there were ears on the torque converter that you had to be careful of when you reinstall it.

Read your book in regard to removal and replacement.

Jason

 

I also have a full set of the factory shop manuals in my possession now so feel free to contact me if you are not sure about something.

Jason

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone, especially about the torque converter and power steering pump. I'll go over the manual in detail before starting.

Michael

 

I would leave the torque converter in the transmission. Just unbolt it from the flexplate/flywheel. Really no need of pulling it out of the tranny just for an engine swap. Unless the current motor is seized up you can rotate it around to get to the flex plate bolts. If siezed up then you will have to pull the torque converter off with the motor change.

 

Really good advice Mobile.

He also needs to make sure he disconnects any cables, wires, and ground straps and gets them out of the way so nothing gets damaged or torn.

I hope you have a few boards laying around and a very good Jack with wheels so when you drop the engine you can easily move it.

Jason

 

Is there anything worth salvaging off of the engine you are pulling?

Also, soak the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust pipes if the bolts are in good shape. If not, just cut them. BUT and with WARNING, do NOT cut those pipes flanges at all. From 1998-2003, those flanges are like GOLD. Nobody offers replacements for them. My shop looked high and low for a set. They had to do a salvage yard pull from a Dakota to get the correct size for both.

 

I'll go with leaving the torque converter where it is, definitely much easier. Soaking the bolts on the exhaust manifold will be done, thanks. I believe that everything on the engine that needs to be swapped will be reusable. I installed the Hugh's Engineering plenum kit on the intake manifold when I first got the van so that stays. I had replaced a couple of other small items, water pump, belt tensioner, etc. that I'll swap. I'm going to rent an engine stand to use for swapping parts and the store will loan me a pallet to transport the engine.

The engine is suppose to come with a gasket set. Now-a-days should gasket sealer be used on any of the gaskets or does one just put them on dry?

 

Depends which gaskets your are installing. If you are installing heads and exhaust manifolds the answer is NO. Water pumps, thermostat housings yes, some RTV is always a good idea to use. Using sealer on valve cover gaskets is a person choice.

Just make sure you have a good torque wench, and get the sequence and progression of torquing pattern correct. When I say progression, you will torque each bolt in the pattern a little at a time, and repeat the process and pattern until you get to the proper torque for each bolt in the pattern. This will help insure an even seating of the gasket.

Are you going to take your heads to a Machine shop to have your valves seats, Valves, guides, springs, and rocker arms checked?

In all honesty I have not been deep in an engine for quite some time but you want to make sure if you have push rods they are in good shape and tolerance. Personally I always replace them and the lifters just to avoid problems of a collapsed or sticky lifters.

One of the things I used to do was get two pieces of card board and mark them left and right. I would punch holes in the cardboard and number them for the push rods for each cylinder so if I happened to reuse the push rods and lifters they would be put back in the same place and direction. That way the rods would be mated with the same rocker arm and wear pattern that already existed. Some people do this and some do not.

It all depends on the type of rebuild you are doing.

Keep in mind that some of my comments apply only if you are doing a Short Block rebuild and others only apply if you are doing a long block. Of course with a turn key type engine you don't have to worry about a lot of these things.

Jason