I'm getting mis-fire codes in 1,3,5 and wonder if anyone has solved this problem. I can't believe it's the cap, or the wires, there only 1 year old. One wire yes, 2... maybe, 3 on the same side, no. I'm thinking fuel rail/injectors, anyone have any thought. Recently fixed a vacuum leak that cause the AC selector to not work, fixing it did make the trans shift GREAT, but hasn't helped the mis-fire codes.
Any/all help appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome to my nightmare!

I spent many years fighting this very problem. I replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ECM, sensors, coil, crank sensor, and the pick-up coil. A compression test showed all cylinders to be good. Nothing helped until I switched over to a high end plug wireset. Even then I had to be careful with how the plug wires were routed and I used many extra wire looms to help keep the plug wires from touching each other.

 

I'll get high perf wire set and run it very carefully.

Thanks so much for your in site and input.

Jim

 

I have done exactly as Alloro (as near as I can figure) using the same high-end Accel wire set. I even have them wrapped in convolute, and I have followed the TSB for re-routing the wires from the stock locations. None of the wires touches another.

I STILL get random misfire codes. Don't be disappointed if replacing your wires does not solve your problem.

But I hope it does.

 

I know you guys probably don't want to hear from me on this thread too but maybe we can solve everyones problems sooner or later.

The problem being the PCM is still iffy in my situation. It was just reprogrammed and I'm still having problems.

After doing all of the other things I've done so far I'm thinking it's one or a combination of these things:
MAP sensor going bad, vaccuum leak or something related, clogged cat, or somthing else significantly worse.

As far as the vaccuum theory goes, immediately after startup, I hear this whistling type sound from the drivers side dash. Also when adjusting the A/C switch sometimes, I hear this sound kinda like shrinking. It's like a sucktion sound. It's all interconnnected isn't it?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

 

The whistling sound you probably hear is the selector switch for the HVAC. They all seem to do that as the plastic shrinks over the years. The sound you hear is the vacuum leaking out a little when the switch is not settled perfectly on the exact position indicated on the dial face.

Wiggle the switch selector slightly back and forth once you've landed on the selection you want and the vacuum sound will stop.

What was so wrong with cable operated HVAC systems? I hate all this vacuum crap, beginning with my '77 240D Mercedes all the way up to my '98 B1500. All these vacuum controls really annoy the crap out of me.

 

SUBJECT:

5.2L Engine - Crack in Cylinder Wall

MODELS:

2002 (AB) Ram Van

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO JANUARY 1, 2002.
DISCUSSION:

Customers may complain of one or more of the following:
1. Fluid low in coolant reservoir.
2. Coolant smell in the exhaust.
3. White smoke coming from the tailpipe.
4. MIL (malfunction indicator light) on.
Technicians may notice one or more of the following:
5. Misfire on No. 8 cylinder with the MIL on.
6. Cracked or broken spark plug in No. 8 cylinder.
The DRBIII

NOTE: IF THE MIL IS NOT “ON” AND/OR THE COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE
TEST MEETS SPECIFICATIONS, IT IS UNLIKELY THIS CONDITION EXISTS AND
DIAGNOSTICS TO DETERMINE OTHER CONDITIONS SHOULD BE PERFORMED.
NOTE: IF A BORE SCOPE IS AVAILABLE THE TESTS ABOVE MAY NOT
BE NECESSARY. ROTATE THE ENGINE UNTIL THE PISTON IN NO. 8
CYLINDER IS AT BOTTOM DEAD CENTER AND, USING THE BORE SCOPE,
CHECK FOR A CRACK IN THE CYLINDER WALL.

7. If the crack exists, follow current warranty policies and service procedures

for repair or replacement.

 

I've also have been told the timing chain may be sloppy causing this condition...

there is so much that can cause this - it will drive you bonkers!

I am almost starting to think, if you get these codes and can't make them go away, you need a new long block...

Good luck

 

How does it drive? what gas do you use?

 

We need to make a check list for this problem. If anyone is interested I'll post what I've done so far.

About the timing chain theory, that's kinda what I was thinking too. Would it get better once you accelerated? Because apparently my misfire dissapears above idle. I did have the water pump changed and the first time I myself opened up the doghouse the oil tube was disconnected. Maybe something to do with the chain after changing out the water pump?

I don't understand alot of engine mechanics but I know some haha.