Hello/ my last time at boat ramp ,truck would not pull boat out straight--had to go diagonal w/ throttle floored == so i #1--replaced fuel pump module #2---replaced tps #3--plugs;cap;rotor #4--cut out cat coverter inspected w/snake camera ==it looked clean and white in color ,no rattles and took truck for ride w/out cat attchted,and no muffler- no difference. #5 reset pmc # 6--- checked brakes for dragging === starts in 1st gear// does shift into every other gear ----my truck will not spin the tires in the dirt ========== thanks for any help bob

 

Is the check engine lamp lite? If so what are the codes?

What is the fuel pressure?

When you floored it was the engine racing at high rpm?

 

no codes---didnt check fuel pressure /but installed new intrernal tank pump= engine does not rev up ,just bogs ==== i going to try a map sensor tomrrow

 

I'd throw a new coil at it before a map sensor.

How many miles on the engine?

Was this an abrupt power loss, or just noticed during the boat extraction?

 

actual 85k. it was a gradual loss of power [some asked if any- CEL-] POSSIBLE ABREVIATION FOR WHAT ?

 

The elements of power:
1. Fuel
2. Air
3. Compression
4. Correct timing and lift of cam.
5. Ignition
6. Exhaust flow
7. Transmit power to ground. (trans, and diff)

I don't think throwing parts at it is the most efficient or expedient way to solve this problem.

No codes tells you something, it's not something that is monitored, or the computer/monitoring of that system has failed. IMO, you need to start with one system at a time and work your way through to make sure each is functioning up to par. Do as much diagnostics as you are able.

Compression, valve timing are critical to power. I'd think a compression check in all cylinders would be a great place to start. Bent valves, collapsed lifters, worn out rings, worn cam, are all things that can be examined by compression check or simple visual inspection.

What condition are the plugs in, check and examine each one when pulling them for the compression check. Are the plugs black, brown, white, wet, are the electrodes at a reasonable gap, etc., plugs can tell you a lot about an engine's condition. Also check the color of the spark while the plugs are out, is it white/blue, or brown. A weak coil with throw a brown spark, a good coil, wires etc with throw a nasty, white/blue and loud spark.

I would not consider mileage in looking for this problem, it's an unusual problem, and so nothing can be ruled out. Parts that "should not be worn out," with your low milage may be, for some yet undiscovered reason.

Best to'ya,
Tar

 

CEL = check engine light.

That is low miles. Unless the engine was abused I wouldn't think internal mechanical issues are present.

 

today i started w/ a coil---no difference ===after that i try a map sensor still nothing /////////i am going to send it out to get it fixed , i will respond what happened thanks bob

 

Finally gote a code ==303 === -cly 3 misfire

 

Sorry the new coil was a wash.

You said you installed new spark plug wires. There have been many reports of dismal quality spark plug wires right out of the box.

It is especially important that none of the wires touch each other, or anything grounded with these engines. Keep in mind that the doghouse might push the wires down onto something or each other when re installed. I like to strip the outer insulation from the old set of wires and double it up where the wires might touch each other. I also use some Zip ties to loosely hold the wires where I want them.

There is also a service bulletin stating that the wires must be routed in such and such a manner to eliminate cross firing.