I have been beating myself up trying to get the blower motor working on my van!

I read many of the posts here, and followed what I can to this point with mixed results. I had the common works on high, but not on any other setting issue. After FINALLY locating the resistor (it is NOT behind the glove box) I found the old one had apparently had some sort of meltdown before I bought the van, and the previous owner had tried to solder wires directly to the resistor, and some wires were simply twisted to other wires. I bought a new resistor and the pigtail kit from the dealer and thought that would be the fix.

After finding out the pin and wire colors, I attached the new resistor, and wired the pins 1-4 as follows:

1) Tan
2) Light Green
3) Lt Blue
4) Green/White

Still not working. Checked the relay, and it worked, but for piece of mind and $9 replaced it too. Still nothing. Well sort of, I get air on setting 2 and 4 now.

Ran power directly to the fan motor and it works, so ruled it out but picked up a new one anyhow but have yet to install it.

At this point I have a new resistor and new relay installed. Have blower on setting 2 and setting 4. Have a new blower I can install.

What am I missing?? My parents are coming into town tomorrow to go tailgating on Sunday and it is supposed to be COLD! I would really like to get this working. I am fairly proficient with a multimieter and now I know where all of the components are. I should mention, I have power on all 4 wires going into the resistor also.

The wires from the van to the resistor are only twisted together right now, not soldered or crimped together yet. Could that be it? Can I hook up the new fan motor but not install it to see if the speeds change? What else can I look at? I really dont want to tear the dash apart, but guess I could if maybe the switch itself could be bad. This model would require me to replace the enitre control panel since I think.

Thank you in advance for your help!!!

 

Maybe----

 

Also as an FYI, the headlight pull out switch has the same problem. If used too much, like daytime driving lights, the switch will melt over time. The replacement switches at NAPA are better built than the OEM, or the NAPA is the OEM with the updated corrections.

 

I hoped you check the other thread you posted in where I showed the fellow to check for power on the reistor pack connector with the switch in different postions. You may have some more melted wires between the switch and reistor pack connector if it is not the switch itself.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2922620-post6.html

 

Thanks for the replies!

Here is where I am now...

Took everything apart I needed to in order to remove the blower motor. It worked, but had a bearing going bad (?), made noise when running. Bought new blower motor. Got home, went to remove fan from the old blower motor, (had to remove radiator fan shroud) and the fan was broken. Another trip to the dealer for the fan. Put new fan on new blower, put new blower into van. Reassemble radiator fan shroud, make all electrical connections. NO FAN!

Take eveything apart, test new motor. Nothing, nada, zip, zilch. Take new motor back, get another new motor. TEST new motor BEFORE installing this time! Reinstall everything, and STILL only working on high, and MAYBE low if you listen close enough.

By this time a few of you had responded, so I started looking closer at the switch/ Thank god, because it can be done inside the van and it is only 16 degrees in my driveway at this point! The connector and the back of the switch was a giant heap of molten goo! Cut off the old connector, and off to the dealership for a new one. No such thing, no part number, nada. Hmmm...Sounds about right!

Go home, put new female connectors on the ends of new 16 gauge wire, splice it onto the wires in the van check the switch and the voltages, and POOF! everything is working! Since I now need to have the van in less than 8 hours to go to the Bengals game, and it APPEARS I wont start a fire, I put heat shrink tubing over each individual terminal, shrink it, and then wrap each terminal with electrical tape. Now the search for a new connector can begin!

Will the way it is connected now cause any problems, or is there some advantage to putting the connector back onto the back of the switch? Is there a part number for a better switch, or will this one hold up? Does anyone have the part number for the black connector?

I could not have done this without you guys! I appreciate all of your help!!!

 

By your description I would say you should not have any problems with those connections on the switch. And personally I would not worry about finding a pig tail for it. Most likely no one but a salvage yard would have it and then you would be adding another potinal spot for the wires to heat up by splicing it in.

 

I will keep a close eye on it for awhile. Only owned this thing for about 3 months, and only put 300 miles on it. I appreciate all of your help !!

 

I had that part number for the pig tail connector you need, but cannot find it. I had it due to I was going to replace mine also. No Chrysler wont have it listed, but it is out there. When I find the number (where I wrote it down) or find it again I will post the info along with the link for it.

Glad to see you got this working again

 

Back when I replaced the pigtail for my blower resistor (2000 model) I got the speed resistor repair pigtail from the dealer for about $55, and the part number was: 5019941AA.

 

I crossed that part number but couldn't find an image to see if it was the correct one. But from what I can tell the part number alloro posted is for the wire clip repair for the resistor not for the dash switch.

I have not found the part nbr yet, might just have to stop into my local dealership again and have them repull the information for me.