As the topic says, which oil is recommended for my 318 engine? -88

I ordered a Repair-Manual a couple days ago but have not got it yet..

Also Searched the forum and did not find my answer !

 

Typical repair manual will not list specifics such as engine oil grade or type. That info is normally found in an owners manual. You can usually find them cheap in eBay. In the mean time, depending on the mileage, 5w-30 or 10w-30 will do just fine.

 

Okay, semisynthetic or fully syntetic? Not that much difference in price

 

That old of an engine, I would recommend conventional oil. Never buy blends. That's a marketing gimmick. Synthetic oil in older, higher mileage engines has been known to result in leaks. Unless it was recently rebuilt and/or has had synthetic run in it all it's life. Stick with conventional.

 

I second that. Older gaskets weren't designed for synthetic lubricants and will likely leak.

That said: I started using semi-synthetic 10-30 Castrol "high-milage" motor oil and full synthetic Mobil differential gear oil in my 2000 a few years back and have not had any issues thus far.

 

I have a 85 B350 & the owners manual for it says to use 10w-30 for it.

 

Hello everyone, good afternoon

I am new here and I have a question about the correct oil for my Dodge Dart 75 engine V8 5.2, in the owner's manual, it indicates only SAE30 oil.
To replace this old type oil, what would be the best oil to use? Here where I live in Brazil the ambient temperature is around 15-35 degrees most of the year
My dodge has no preparation, but the engine has been fully rectified with all new internal parts a 5 years ago and so far, and not run more than 300 km...

In conversation with other car owners, I found many differences in the oils they use e.g. 15w40, 20w50, 5w30, .., and they didn’t really know how to explain, simply someone indicated and they continue to use ...

Thank you in advance and sorry for my english..

 

10W30 will be fine.

 

Wow old thread..

I have found most oils to be OK but dont buy the cheapest.

I have also found that it seems like the motor really likes STP. I use the high mileage version that includes a little more ZDDP (zinc) and has gasket swellers in it. I run Mobil 1 1030 in the winter and 15-50 in the summer and have no leaks.

 

If your temperature stays in the same range year 'round, 30 weight is okay. Back then I used 10W-30 most of the year but on worn engines in really hot weather, I would run 10W-40.

With 300km on the engine, that's about 190 miles, I'd run 10W-30. If you haven't changed the oil since you rebuilt the engine, put a large ceramic magnet on your oil filter and one the bottom of your oil pan near the drain plug. Run it another 50-75km and change the oil. Pull the magnet as you open the drain plug and leave the magnet on the filter until you get it off. What this does is catch any really small ferrous metal particles (flash from machining) and this will make the engine have just a little less wear on break in. You don't have to put the magnets back after you change the oil. If your fuel tank is older, put them under the tank so the gasoline will flow over the magnetic field when you fill it with fuel. This will take any rust particles out of the fuel flow and make little flowers of rust inside the tank and keep it from the filter.