coolant smell
#1
08-22-2015, 01:02 AM
#3
08-23-2015, 02:33 AM
I had a slow leak from the thermostat housing/hose clamp a little while back that eluded me for some time, could smell it faintly but not see it.... it must've pooled there at the housing well hidden behind everything, then would trickle down the edge of the timing gear cover seal. It would never make it to the ground, think the heat of the motor would dry it but finally spotted it one day, could see it was wet just a few minutes after shut down.
You might get under there with a light a few minutes after you park it and take a good look. Are you noticing any loss of coolant from the reservoir?
You might get under there with a light a few minutes after you park it and take a good look. Are you noticing any loss of coolant from the reservoir?
#4
08-23-2015, 07:24 AM
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#5
08-23-2015, 08:51 AM
#6
09-04-2015, 06:54 AM
When the radiator fails on a Dodge it usually develops tiny pinhole leaks first. The stock engine fan will pull this liquid away and disperse it, making the leaks hard to see. The pressure test should have caught any leak but sometimes the leak is very small..
Monitor your your coolant level. If it slowly drops I would remove the engine fan and shroud briefly and check the back of the radiator for leaks. Even if you flush your cooling system regularly radiators on these usually only last 8 -10 years now if you are lucky.
If you determine that the coolant smell is ONLY coming through your vents then more than likely the heater core is at fault.
Monitor your your coolant level. If it slowly drops I would remove the engine fan and shroud briefly and check the back of the radiator for leaks. Even if you flush your cooling system regularly radiators on these usually only last 8 -10 years now if you are lucky.
If you determine that the coolant smell is ONLY coming through your vents then more than likely the heater core is at fault.
Last edited by blackvan; 09-04-2015 at 06:57 AM.
#7
09-19-2015, 04:35 PM
Currently have it back in the shop for inspection. Still using a small amount of coolant. Can occasionally smell coolant from outside vehicle.
Just replaced the battery and alternator last month. Had to take it back in due to battery going dead again.
Also asked about checking/replacing Throttle Postition sensor due to occasional stumbling when stepping on the gas.
Just replaced the battery and alternator last month. Had to take it back in due to battery going dead again.
Also asked about checking/replacing Throttle Postition sensor due to occasional stumbling when stepping on the gas.
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#8
03-06-2020, 08:34 AM
I had a tractor issue some time back with a similar complaint. Coolant smell.
You need to get the cooling system pressure tested.
In my case, there was a leak at the brand new upper rad hose. It would dribble out a tiny amount only when it got good and hot. Hot coolant smells, even a tiny amount. Two hose clamps failed to seal it, the issue appeared to be the casting that the hose attached to. The solution was to coat the inside of the hose with high temp gasket cement (This is a sticky gooey compound, not a silicone, although a silicone might have worked) It's been years now, and it hasn't leaked.
What's a pressure test?
They place a small hand pump on the rad neck, and raise the pressure to the rads specified safety. (usually stamped on the rad cap) Then wait and watch for leaks, or pressure drop. If you get pressure drop with no leaks, assuming there are not issues with the seal of the pump to the rad, or problems with the pump itself, there are internal engine issues, like leaking head gaskets, or cracks.
You can check for compression leaks to the cooling system by removing the rad cap and watching for bubbles with the engine running, or, by attaching the pump mentioned above to a cold engine, and watching for sudden pressure rise on the gauge. (always check for bubbles first, as the pressure pump has no relief, and it could blow your cooling system if the compression leak was severe) A small rise in pressure over some time is normal, as the coolant expands.
Warning! Stand clear when you do the bubble check, as a severe compression leak can launch coolant like a jet from the neck of the rad. (been there done that, Farm equipment mechanic 40+ years)
14psi used to be the standard pressure, but no longer, there are systems with higher and lower pressures.
You need to get the cooling system pressure tested.
In my case, there was a leak at the brand new upper rad hose. It would dribble out a tiny amount only when it got good and hot. Hot coolant smells, even a tiny amount. Two hose clamps failed to seal it, the issue appeared to be the casting that the hose attached to. The solution was to coat the inside of the hose with high temp gasket cement (This is a sticky gooey compound, not a silicone, although a silicone might have worked) It's been years now, and it hasn't leaked.
What's a pressure test?
They place a small hand pump on the rad neck, and raise the pressure to the rads specified safety. (usually stamped on the rad cap) Then wait and watch for leaks, or pressure drop. If you get pressure drop with no leaks, assuming there are not issues with the seal of the pump to the rad, or problems with the pump itself, there are internal engine issues, like leaking head gaskets, or cracks.
You can check for compression leaks to the cooling system by removing the rad cap and watching for bubbles with the engine running, or, by attaching the pump mentioned above to a cold engine, and watching for sudden pressure rise on the gauge. (always check for bubbles first, as the pressure pump has no relief, and it could blow your cooling system if the compression leak was severe) A small rise in pressure over some time is normal, as the coolant expands.
Warning! Stand clear when you do the bubble check, as a severe compression leak can launch coolant like a jet from the neck of the rad. (been there done that, Farm equipment mechanic 40+ years)
14psi used to be the standard pressure, but no longer, there are systems with higher and lower pressures.
#9
03-06-2020, 08:40 AM
Also note that when you refilled your system, you may have raised the coolant level beyond where the engine wants it to be. That isn't always where the specs says it should be, and you may simply be losing coolant over the overflow, until it comes to a level where it leaves enough room for expansion. I've debated causes for that, but it comes down to the engine running a bit hotter than spec. Maybe the rad is a tad plugged, the fan belt loose, or "stop leak" wasn't flushed from the system when the previous owner used it, God knows how many times.
#10
03-06-2020, 09:19 AM
I had a tractor issue some time back with a similar complaint. Coolant smell.
You need to get the cooling system pressure tested.
In my case, there was a leak at the brand new upper rad hose. It would dribble out a tiny amount only when it got good and hot. Hot coolant smells, even a tiny amount. Two hose clamps failed to seal it, the issue appeared to be the casting that the hose attached to. The solution was to coat the inside of the hose with high temp gasket cement (This is a sticky gooey compound, not a silicone, although a silicone might have worked) It's been years now, and it hasn't leaked.
What's a pressure test?
They place a small hand pump on the rad neck, and raise the pressure to the rads specified safety. (usually stamped on the rad cap) Then wait and watch for leaks, or pressure drop. If you get pressure drop with no leaks, assuming there are not issues with the seal of the pump to the rad, or problems with the pump itself, there are internal engine issues, like leaking head gaskets, or cracks.
You can check for compression leaks to the cooling system by removing the rad cap and watching for bubbles with the engine running, or, by attaching the pump mentioned above to a cold engine, and watching for sudden pressure rise on the gauge. (always check for bubbles first, as the pressure pump has no relief, and it could blow your cooling system if the compression leak was severe) A small rise in pressure over some time is normal, as the coolant expands.
Warning! Stand clear when you do the bubble check, as a severe compression leak can launch coolant like a jet from the neck of the rad. (been there done that, Farm equipment mechanic 40+ years)
14psi used to be the standard pressure, but no longer, there are systems with higher and lower pressures.
You need to get the cooling system pressure tested.
In my case, there was a leak at the brand new upper rad hose. It would dribble out a tiny amount only when it got good and hot. Hot coolant smells, even a tiny amount. Two hose clamps failed to seal it, the issue appeared to be the casting that the hose attached to. The solution was to coat the inside of the hose with high temp gasket cement (This is a sticky gooey compound, not a silicone, although a silicone might have worked) It's been years now, and it hasn't leaked.
What's a pressure test?
They place a small hand pump on the rad neck, and raise the pressure to the rads specified safety. (usually stamped on the rad cap) Then wait and watch for leaks, or pressure drop. If you get pressure drop with no leaks, assuming there are not issues with the seal of the pump to the rad, or problems with the pump itself, there are internal engine issues, like leaking head gaskets, or cracks.
You can check for compression leaks to the cooling system by removing the rad cap and watching for bubbles with the engine running, or, by attaching the pump mentioned above to a cold engine, and watching for sudden pressure rise on the gauge. (always check for bubbles first, as the pressure pump has no relief, and it could blow your cooling system if the compression leak was severe) A small rise in pressure over some time is normal, as the coolant expands.
Warning! Stand clear when you do the bubble check, as a severe compression leak can launch coolant like a jet from the neck of the rad. (been there done that, Farm equipment mechanic 40+ years)
14psi used to be the standard pressure, but no longer, there are systems with higher and lower pressures.
