Just bought this. I think I've been ripped off again. Once I paid the 2,400 after some arguing, I hit the road from Portland to the san francisco bay.
It wanders a bit, and upon my first gas stop it I heard clunks from the front end. There is this loud squeaking. I drove all the way with the overdrive light on. Which I thought was overdrive...Turns out it's not.
SOoo I'm buying moog ball joints for the upper and lower control arms, (3500lbs axle) and control arm bushings, and links and bushings for the swaybar/stabilizer bar. Inner and Outer tie rod ends..
What kind of shocks? Is monroe good enough?
I'm going to change rear abs speed sensor,(the speedometer does not work)
Should I buy the master solenoid kit from Cascade trans parts? And Just change out the trans senors and spring"? It seems to work ok on my trip?
Its got 143,000 miles on it....

Thanks for your time, and advice. If there's anything you can tell me about this van..Like is it really a 46RE trany? Using my Vin # I got the fact sheet, yet it doesn't make much sense to me..
I went to the library and printed out the right page's out of the manual.
And now I know where to find it..when I need it again...

Anyway thanks for the help....Leroy...

 

You never stated the year van or which engine in yours... 5.2 -5.9? But very likely you have the 46re. I replaced most all you mentioned concerning front end parts a couple years ago, plus a couple...
As for shocks, the Monroes worked fine for mine (4k axle)
Bought the proper socket for the upper ball joints and gave it hell trying to bust em loose but the originals were a low profile nut that the new socket just rolled off of so after busting my finger open returned the uppers and ordered the Moog control arm with ball joints installed (problem solver series, if not mistaken) it made life much easier for me! the lowers weren't so much a big deal other than working them out then aligning them in and making sure they seated flush with a harbor freight ball joint tool. (My only regret was not replacing the lower control arm bushings, but so far so good and will do them when it comes time.
The rest was pretty easy in comparison.
You might want to consider (since doing all this anyway) the strut rod bushings as well, they tend to loosen up over time and will cause some creaking and affect the ride as well. Do it before an alignment and while replacing the rest of the front end stuff and you'll be happier. Mine before replacing were to the point you could spin the bushings and washers with little effort by hand.
Also stabilizer links and bushings too! Cost for these additional couple things won't break the bank and give you peace of mind imo.

Lastly, that I can think of is search out about the idler arm (s) for our vans too, some good advice from funair02 posted here along with some others.

Oh... thought I'd add that the transmission has a speed sensor too, well mine does, yours depending on year and setup I suppose. If the transmission shifts well no sense doing more than filter and atf+4 fluid change, your tranny will appreciate it if it hadn't been done in ever

 

Thanks JFloors, the year is 1997- I will take your advice and do the strut rod bushing too.
oh the engine is the 3.9 six cylinder..
I want to get that speed sensor that goes on the outside of the trany, and the spring inside the trany- SOoo I was thinking the Cascade master kit has everything, Maybe I'll just replace the two senor thingy's also...
It's a big job, It will take me a long time. Yet when I'm done I will have control arm bushings, ball joints, stabilizer bar bushing and links, Tie rod ends outer/ inner- And yes I'll get some monroe shocks. The Idler arms (theres two) and other connections on the pivot points down there...Man there's lots of them....if I need to do more it should be no problem...just pickle fork them out and replace..i guess...
I got a cheap rear ads speed sensor ($12) that goes on the over the pumpkin back there,,,there is one from Delphi- $50,, I hope the cheap one works....
I was surprised Amazon had a lot of the parts at good price's and FREE shipping...
I even got the 250ftlb torque wrench for $50.
I got the 9/64'' - 3/4'' socket for like $12...Hope it works better than the one you had.
And I hope I don't bust my knuckles too....thanks again...

 

No problem and good deal! Sounds like you have your job handled and organized so hopefully all goes well and no glitches for you.

Good find on the 2 9/64 socket, dang! I think I paid near $50. at the time being in a hurry! Don't forget the ball joints need to be pressed in, couldn't find a loaner for dodge locally at the time so ended up buying the harbor freight bj press. It may work as instructions read for yours okay but I had to get creative installing to get it started but worked out

Good deal on the rear abs sensor, i'd probably give that a go too for that price to see if it works. the one on the side of the transmission is also not costly. Not sure what spring you speak of inside the tranny... The other thingys are the governor pressure switch and transducer. I had to have that done recently which fixed shifting issues I'd asked about on here, shifts normal again now. Still I'd say if your van shifts and runs well save your money and invest in a filter and atf change , adjust the bands and call it a day

For a heads up, as you research n read in the 2nd gen vans and trucks too, you'll find most guys find the bargain aftermarket sensors and such either don't work/ don't work long/ or fail prematurely, so sometimes pays off better in the long run getting the oem parts (more money but less worry or likely to fail) like the denso or delphi engine sensors, ntk or ngk for 02 sensors etc.

enjoy the project, take yer time, be careful and give an update for us

 

The overdrive will not engage even if the the light is off with a bad speed sensor. It needs to know how fast you are going to engage the od. If you can get all greasable front end parts. Moog has both greasable and non greasable.

 

I got the wrong ball joint socket it is too small,(just rolled around the top of the B.J.)
I am sending it back to amazon, I ask for the 2 9/64" instead..of the 1 59/64" that I though would be the right one..After all my intensive research,,I still got the wrong one!
The thing is..with the 3,300lbs front axle you need the smaller one, because it's 3/4 ton.
Someone on Utube has the same size van, he got the whole upper control arm, which was right for his driver side, yet he went 100 lbs heavier on the passenger side and the ball joint was too big to fit, and he had to send for the smaller ball joint...
Its all very hard to get the right information...I will try the 2 59/64" if they send it..
Thanks I'm on my way to 'the amazon drop box' at safeway...later..

 

I am having difficulty following the questions and the advice given. Please correct me if I am wrong but 3.9l were only equipped with non overdrive 3 speeds. Also did you diagnosis or isolate the front end noise or are you just replacing parts you believe may be cause?

 

Looks like the '97 3.9 coulda been 3 or 4 speed, but one of 3 choices in transmission after looking around. The op did mention that there is an o/d button though...

VAN/WAGON 1500-2500
95-03 3 SP RWD V6 3.9L 32RH A999

VAN/WAGON 1500-2500
95-01 3 SP RWD V8 5.2L 36RH A727

VAN/WAGON 1500-2500
95-96 4 SP RWD V6 3.9L 42RH/RE (A500 W/O LOCK-UP)

VAN/WAGON 1500-3500
95-03 4 SP RWD V8 5.2L/5.9L 46RH/RE (A518)


I was not correct to assume it could be a 46rh/re that comes along with the 5.2/5.9 as supposed, sorry for that.
Best you find out exactly which you have (Someday) before buying any parts for that, a dealership can get you a printout verifying the transmission with your VIN #

 

Another example of live and learn, I thought ALL 3.9L were 3 speeds but respectively stand corrected. Comment here, I would grab a friend to help locate the noise in the front end, maybe if the friend rocks the van, jumps on the bumper or turns the steering wheel with the wheels on the ground with you listening the noise can be located maybe not.

Should that not work I would put the front up on jack stands and crawl underneath with a ball joint fork and a couple other long leavers and carefully, GENTLY and methodology test all the front end joints bolts and rubber components for wear you will save time and money rather than throwing parts at noise and crossing your fingers that you guessed correct. Also after your own personal inspection you will know exactly the condition of the front end components.

Just my opinion nonetheless I wish you best of luck.

 

This is so confusing. I read a thread hear on sending in your Vin# and getting a Fact Sheet. Which I did, it says I've got a 46re trany, yet I can't be sure, cause it has conflicting information..
I'll do what Jfloors said.= Go in the dealer and give'em my Vin#..that's where I'll start..
I've held onto the tie rod end while wife shook the steering wheel back and forth, I could feel it was loose, I Jacked the front wheel off the ground, and I could move it back and forth, it was loos, I then did the Up and bottom shacking motion and could feel it was loose..
I could not reproduce the clunk noise doing any of this.. Thanks for all your reply's....I think this place is really great...thanks again...