So, would you go into a house, look at something that's broken, and then half-*** it? No? That's what I would expect from a master carpenter. So, why are you half-assing your truck, when fixing it RIGHT would be less than 50 bucks in parts?

 

It's a movie quote....and he's a guy, so....

 

My truck as in my house, I've done things I wouldn't do in customers home,my privilege!

 

Ok, I'll give ya that one.

 

If anyone is being arrogant it is you. You're the one calling me professional, I've never once claimed to be. Frankly, I don't care about your profession or age, or whatever, it doesn't matter. You came here asking for help, and now you've pissed me off and wont be receiving it from me, and I hope no one else helps you either because you've been nothing but a complete d*** to anyone who has commented on this thread. I've offered you help and said that I need YOU to identify what you need help with. No one cares what you did to your truck, like you said its your choice and your preference. Your asking us to make sure your wiring is correct, but then you go on to say it works fine and starts. You're also asking us to check your wiring of something that isn't stock and is your own wire job. No one called you ignorant for wanting information, I called you ignorant to assume that someone who replied to a thread, would have read ANY other thread on this forum nevermind an unrelated one. If you ask about an engine problem, and then make a thread about an electrical one, and I only reply to one, you shouldn't assume I would've read the other. Also, if you were worried about frying the ECM, you probably should check and ensure that BEFORE doing wiring and testing. Since you already went ahead and wired it and have been using it, I think its safe to assume that unless you have left exposed wires or caused shorts somehow, your wiring is fine SINCE IT WORKS.

If your head wasn't so far up your *** you'd realize I've been offering you help on the condition you calm down and you seem unable to do that, and that has NOTHING to do with age. The irony is you'd expect someone whoms so old and wise to be mature, but we can all see that is not the case. My criticism of your behavior is well warranted.

I won't be helping you, and hope no one else will either. Take your drama and attitude to another forum that'll will tolerate your behavior. I'm not surprised no one has helped you in months of searching.

 

That's a start any way!Just read long message what's so complicated about giving you the colors of the wires and the switch leg order isn't this how electrical scymatic are read and then asking if this is correct. What the hell am I missing+ how was that being inconsiderate of professional courtesy?

 

OOooooohhh, my virgin ears have been verbally soiled.

 

Because no one wants to take the time to look up your specific vehicles wiring diagram. It would be easier and suffice to say what the wire does. If I say I put a pink wire tied to a switch and a blue wire on the other side, from reading that, it means nothing. If I say I tied a 12V wire to a switch and then the starter on the other side I would understand that you tied a power wire to a button to power the starter. Its much more clear and universally understood of what you have done. If you had posted a link or picture to the diagram in question, that would help things as well.

The fact still stands if you read the schematic, and already did the wiring and ended with a successful result, that you should be okay unless you have left exposed wires. From an electrical standpoint it doesn't matter if its 12V from a wire the whole way, or a switch in the middle, or even tons of different wires soldered together in a chain, the device only cares its getting proper voltage and current as expected and intended. As long as the original connections are still there in some capacity, what you did is fine. As I explained, it sounds like all you have done is disconnected the buzzer, then exchanged the on status of your key for two switches to power the two ignition wires, and then changed the forward key turn with a pushable button to power the starter. That should work perfectly fine to start the vehicle. You should also take into consideration that you are losing key functionality, ie anyone can now get in your car, flip switches and push button and start it. ALSO unless the key is in the ignition in the run position still, you wont have accessory power switched on unless you have also wired them somewhere with another switch.

 

Received this on my mail, what's up with this?

 

Very nice, you know If they wanted electrical diagram all they had to do was ask! Now is there any reason I should have to expose that I am handicapped this is definitely no one's business.An I was a carpenter all my life and not a master tech. I was just looking for peace of mind! F A R from that! Respectfully Thank you