So....even more confused now.
THE NEW SWITCH I bought just to have if the switch in the van tested bad doesn't make any sense..
Probing the middle terminal to the switch housing (which would be ground to granny housing) shows no connection with switch open or closed.
The two outer terminals show permanent closed connection regardless of switch pressed closed or open.
The middle terminal also shows constant closed connection when proved from you iddle terminal to metal nub on the end of the switch that would sit in the transmission. What the hell am I missing?

As for the switch that is CURRENTLY IN THE TRANSMISSION .
Middle terminal when probed with tranny housing or known solid ground shows no connection regardless of shifter position .
The two other terminals when probed show no connection regardless of shifter position .
Yes .Shifter movement I'm steering column does translate to movement in the shifter lever on tranny housing. Park is park and and neutral is neutral. Verified when I used the bobcat to push this scrap heap onto blocks so I could actually get underneath it to get to the neutral safety switch.

Can anyone tell.me what I am not getting?

Also. Does key position in ignition and battery cknection make any difference here?

Thanks again.
Daz Spaz aka Itchy Bruno.

 

It's a switch with mechanical contacts, so yes it can flat out fail without warning.

 

Alloro. Please read my post previous to your reply. There is something im deffo missing here or I happened to buy a new switch that also doesn't work as it should. Probing the new switch middle teminal and switch housing does nothing. Open or closed position. The reverse terminals are constant closed. Regardles of switch position. Metallic nub on end of plunger thay would sit inside the transmission shows constant continuity with middle terminal regardless of switch depressed or not. What the hell is the deal?
I'm getting very ready to put a push but to start in for the starter solenoid and say F*** figuring out the neutral safety switch.

 

There could be a problem with the cam inside the tranny the switch nub rides on. Did you try removing the switch and manually pressing the nub to see if the switch changes state?

 

Thanks for the reply man.
That could be an issue but i doubt it. That also doesn't answer why the new switch has no change in continuity regardless of position. I even got my parts guy to bring out 2 more and they are the same way. No.matter how you probe it, it doesn't ave an open or closed position. Im definatley missing something. In putting the new switch in regardless today to see what happens. If it's constantly closed and the van doesn't start I have one if those never dealt with it before problems that is going to take some wire tracing and digging deeper. Mental .

 

Bad batch of switches perhaps? Try a different brand at a different supplier.

 

Ha. I even got him to bring out a switch from a 96 b1500. Same style switch with a different type of connector but still a 3 wire. Exact same result......

 

So did you actually install the new nss? Or try bypassing the nss to try a startup yet? Checked starter fuse(s) and swapped the relay with a known good one? You haven't mentioned that you did so far... verifying power (at the starters contacts) and that they are good. You seem pretty on top of things but obviously something is getting missed, I'm curious here and just trying to help kick around ideas.
Also, Alloro suggested going to a different parts place and trying a different brand of switch (other than whatever brand you have in hand right now)

 

hey .thanks for the reply.
I already verified all you've suggested. Including different brand if relay .As previous reply.
Relays and fuses checked and swapped.
Starters been pulled and bench tested.
Been cold and dark when I finish work so I haven't just say over there till I solve it.
Tomorrow I'm off .Gonna start it by jumping solenoid and then swap out the new switch for the old. See what happens.
I would still love to hear from someone who has proved the same switch on place for continuity to hear the actual results of what is supposed to be what.
cheers
Daz

 

Ok. So we all knew I was missing something. After bypassing the neutral safety switch and this thing still not cranking I went straight into digging around at wires. I finally found some "aftermarket" (read crack head) wiring buried behind the dash and feeding into wire loom under the hood. One of those wires went to the starter solenoid. You wouldn't have found that the run strayed off without serious digging because the splice in was hidden in such a ways that it looked like the run was complete all the way through. The splice was hidden behind the dash and after following that I found a simple on off toggle switch that was breaking any connection to the starter solenoid when you turned the key to the crank / start position. I'm still trying to figure out how this masked things into seeming like a faulty neutral safety switch as it somehow disabled the reverse lights as well which as we all know is part of the neutral safety switch.
Thanks to all that read and replied with input. Clearly not a normal problem.
Cheers
DazSpaz aka Itchy Bruno