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Dodge ram B350 VAN. suddenly died, will not start back up. PLEASE READ ALL INFO

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  #11  
Old 09-09-2018, 10:07 PM
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That's strange because partgeeks has MAP sensor for your for van approx. 59 dollars.
 
  #12  
Old 09-10-2018, 12:04 AM
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Where is the location of the MAP sensor. do you know?
 
  #13  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:21 AM
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93 should be throttle body injected. Map will be on the throttle body. (in front, I do believe.) But, I doubt that is your problem. You have a wiring issue somewhere. If you aren't getting power to the cluster, you need to find out why.
 
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:53 AM
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According to experts on Allpar web site a bad MAP sensor will act as bad fuel pump and cause a no start issue in Chrysler products in that age group. They say unplug it and see if it starts. Their experience not mine. Whether or not that is his problem I personally don't know. I'm only trying help out a fellow vanner.
 
  #15  
Old 09-10-2018, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
93 should be throttle body injected. Map will be on the throttle body. (in front, I do believe.) But, I doubt that is your problem. You have a wiring issue somewhere. If you aren't getting power to the cluster, you need to find out why.
BTW, I traced down that click i heard, when the ignition is turned all the way. (where you can feel the spring )..... it is giving electricity to a relay located right behind my speedometer or gas gauge (took dash screws out and moved dash covers away, plus removed speedometer in order to find this relay ) After clicking so many times the Relay box got hot. The relay box felt like it had one of those little pop-rock (the little safe, sand filled paper twisties) and it was popping inside of the relay everytime i turned ignition to start.. you could physically feel it.
So does that mean i have power from my Battery> through the Cluster> to my ignition? or vice versa..
Forgot to mention the Cig lighter port/phone charging port has no power with key either. ( As normally it would get power with key in the accessory position)
I also swapped that clicking relay with a new one, still didn't give me Dash lights.. (as normally my check engine, battery and an ABS usually come on with the key on accessory ) same clicking sensation.
How does a computer interact with relays? Id be helpful to know the route which the current Is sent from first. For Ex. Ignition switch > ECM > then to relay?
How would i use an electric meter to test current?
ive had a feeling my computer was bad from the beginning but i could be wrong.
although the van only has 124,000 original miles on it. 1993

My ignition switch is not giving power to any accessory.. not even my starter, in order to turn my motor..(BUT i do have power to interior dome lights, Very Bright headlight brights, and bright dims as normal) i have light underneath front hood., i also have BACKGROUND DASH and GAUGE ILLUMINATION... which is controlled by that twisty push and pull **** left of steering wheel.. which also turns the ignition light on and off as same as dash and gauge illumination.. so.Are all of those directly wired to the battery? Thiss is so confusing.
Further on, i can jump the starter with a screwdriver but then i don't get spark to my coils. ( had assistant do the coil wire >to ground test with screwdriver while i jumped the starter.... no arc and we were in the dark.
Only thing i haven't tried is replacing the computer. i'm trying to avoid that for now.
Day 4 working on this thing.
 
  #16  
Old 09-10-2018, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Brando224
BTW, I traced down that click i heard, when the ignition is turned all the way. (where you can feel the spring )..... it is giving electricity to a relay located right behind my speedometer or gas gauge (took dash screws out and moved dash covers away, plus removed speedometer in order to find this relay ) After clicking so many times the Relay box got hot. The relay box felt like it had one of those little pop-rock (the little safe, sand filled paper twisties) and it was popping inside of the relay everytime i turned ignition to start.. you could physically feel it.
So does that mean i have power from my Battery> through the Cluster> to my ignition? or vice versa..
Forgot to mention the Cig lighter port/phone charging port has no power with key either. ( As normally it would get power with key in the accessory position)
I also swapped that clicking relay with a new one, still didn't give me Dash lights.. (as normally my check engine, battery and an ABS usually come on with the key on accessory ) same clicking sensation.
How does a computer interact with relays? Id be helpful to know the route which the current Is sent from first. For Ex. Ignition switch > ECM > then to relay?
How would i use an electric meter to test current?
ive had a feeling my computer was bad from the beginning but i could be wrong.
although the van only has 124,000 original miles on it. 1993

My ignition switch is not giving power to any accessory.. not even my starter, in order to turn my motor..(BUT i do have power to interior dome lights, Very Bright headlight brights, and bright dims as normal) i have light underneath front hood., i also have BACKGROUND DASH and GAUGE ILLUMINATION... which is controlled by that twisty push and pull **** left of steering wheel.. which also turns the ignition light on and off as same as dash and gauge illumination.. so.Are all of those directly wired to the battery? Thiss is so confusing.
Further on, i can jump the starter with a screwdriver but then i don't get spark to my coils. ( had assistant do the coil wire >to ground test with screwdriver while i jumped the starter.... no arc and we were in the dark.
Only thing i haven't tried is replacing the computer. i'm trying to avoid that for now.
Day 4 working on this thing.
Another important note.
before the van sshut down, i had never had an engine light come on while i was driving. it is only lit up on accessory position, and like 1 second while the engine starts. then soon goes away and stays away... so its like youd think if it was my computer it would have given me an engine light at one point while it was running and driving.
and not just shut down randomly right?
Confused as hell.
 
  #17  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:05 AM
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Need to find out why cluster isn't getting power. Do any of the gauges test when you hit the key?

I suspect solving this one, will likely solve the rest. Blew a fuse somewhere, or something. (bad power feed to the switch?)
 
  #18  
Old 09-11-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Need to find out why cluster isn't getting power. Do any of the gauges test when you hit the key?

I suspect solving this one, will likely solve the rest. Blew a fuse somewhere, or something. (bad power feed to the switch?)
no gauges test when key is turned. im pretty sure they never did to begin with. all my gauges are where they would be, as if the van were running. except the battery gauge and the temp gauge.
 
  #19  
Old 09-12-2018, 07:54 AM
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If you turn the ignition on, volt gauge should show battery voltage in any event. Does it?
 
  #20  
Old 09-12-2018, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
If you turn the ignition on, volt gauge should show battery voltage in any event. Does it?
It does not.
 


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