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1999 RAM 1500 van dies while driving

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  #21  
Old 08-23-2019, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ElkCon
Yep, removing the front O2 sensor as a diagnosis is correct in your situation. The result that you have of running perfect means you cat IS bad.

You can use any cat you want to. Any independent muffler shop can put any cat on for about 50-100 bucks. You just need to find a shop that is willing to work with you.
When I had my V6, I had a shot cat too one day. I bought a generic 3.8 GM V6 cat which was about $85 and had a indy shop put it on for $80 bucks.

Welding isnt that hard, but you will need to figure out what kind you want to do and then either rent the welder of buy one...for that price, you might as well just find a shop that will help you. You can also take out the exhaust system, take it to them and have them do the job. In some states it is illegal to put on another brand or style of cat, but if you bring just the exhaust, they can do the job legally. It all depends on the state and area.

I had one like the one below in the link...it worked fine...cheers!

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Cat...ateway&sr=8-17
Well, now we have checked around at a few local muffler shops, the only one willing to weld one for us didn't quote much of a savings to us. We found a great deal on Summit racing for a direct fit complete assembly, $100 less than our local parts stores (sometimes they are not the most pricey), that turns out only slightly more than if we got just the CAT and get the muffler place to put it on. So, ordered that in and hoping this finally gets us back running. I'll come back and update.
Thanks for all the responses so far!
 
  #22  
Old 08-23-2019, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sewfine406
We went ahead and took off the muffler and tailpipe, neither one is restricted in any way. Nice and clean. Today we have a new vacuum gauge so will run those tests but it seems we are needing a CAT.
Once you get your exhaust on, take a vacuum reading with the gauge. If it's pulling about 17 inches of mercury and the needle is steady, you have good healthy engine.
 
  #23  
Old 08-25-2019, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sewfine406
when we replaced the crankshaft position sensor, that dying whilst driving cleared up. BUT the next time we tried to start it in the driveway, it had gone back to horrible idle and stalling right away there in the driveway.
did you disconnect the battery for a few minutes after to clear the learned parameters?
 
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Old 08-25-2019, 11:39 AM
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Mine would stall like that until I plugged the vacuum line that is beside the MAP Sensor on the throttke body. It was a temporary fix, but it has worked indefinitely.
 
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
did you disconnect the battery for a few minutes after to clear the learned parameters?
Yes we did.
 
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Spencer Yancey
Mine would stall like that until I plugged the vacuum line that is beside the MAP Sensor on the throttke body. It was a temporary fix, but it has worked indefinitely.
Well, I think we may have fixed the stalling with all the various sensors we replaced, but now we believe the catalytic converter is plugged or bad. This week a new one goes on and we'll see. Fingers crossed that's the last thing we have to do. This van has surely gotten a full "tune-up"
 
  #27  
Old 09-01-2019, 11:21 AM
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Good news and bad news now (grr.)
New Cat is on, test drive seemed great, no more surging or backfiring, but we did have one stall, it just died coming up to a stop sign. It did start back up after about 1 minute. We did not yet have the muffler on.

We ran a scan tool, no codes, but on the live data test intake air temp is high, 158-168 degrees. One of the last sensors we replaced was an air intake temp.

Then we did a vacuum test, at idle it is showing in the red just under the green, maybe about 15, the gauge says late timing there.

So two issues, intake air temp and late timing, where do we go now?
 
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sewfine406
Good news and bad news now (grr.)
New Cat is on, test drive seemed great, no more surging or backfiring, but we did have one stall, it just died coming up to a stop sign. It did start back up after about 1 minute. We did not yet have the muffler on.

We ran a scan tool, no codes, but on the live data test intake air temp is high, 158-168 degrees. One of the last sensors we replaced was an air intake temp.

Then we did a vacuum test, at idle it is showing in the red just under the green, maybe about 15, the gauge says late timing there.

So two issues, intake air temp and late timing, where do we go now?

How many miles on the engine. Your timing chain may be worn and it's off a bit. Does the heat seem cool and the engine doesn't warm all the way up? It sounds like you used a mile-o-meter for a vacuum gauge. Granted, that's what it is, but I use a regular gauge. This one is a good 25-30 years old but it will read the innards easily. Plus it responds fast.




The above chart is a scan from my 1936 copy of Troubleshooters Handbook. (NO! I din't buy it new.) It may be over 80 years old but engines still oerate on the same principles.
 
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Old 09-01-2019, 01:13 PM
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heater is fine, engine warms up normally. 75,000 miles. The vacuum gauge has suggestions on it as to what the reading means. At idle it reads 15-16, if you rev it it goes up then drops right back to 15-16.
 

Last edited by sewfine406; 09-01-2019 at 01:14 PM. Reason: added something
  #30  
Old 09-02-2019, 09:09 AM
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For 99.99% of the cases out there, low vacuum is the result of a worn or jumped timing chain, a large vacuum leak, or a collapsed lifter.
 


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