Sloppy steering solved.
I saw recently where there is a brace available that that puts a ball bearing at the bottom of the steering shaft that is mounted to a bracket that bolts to the frame. Can't find my note with the info. Their main business is Dodge ram trucks. I'll keep looking. Found it. Check out their kit for the vans.Big D Off Road, LLC
4177 82nd St.
Byron Center, MI, 49315
Any Questions? (616) 299-0261, Don
Email: bigdoffroad@gmail.com
4177 82nd St.
Byron Center, MI, 49315
Any Questions? (616) 299-0261, Don
Email: bigdoffroad@gmail.com
Last edited by jeffersonracing; Jan 3, 2024 at 09:26 PM.
Get someone to jiggle the steering wheel gently while you look at the steering box. You'll see the steering input go in at one end, and then come out the other. If it's jiggling more at the input side than the output side, it's probably your steering box. If so, I suggest you read the rest of the thread - I bought a re-engineered box. Apparently they've improved on the original design and rebuild the box to a higher standard so it works better. Replacing it with a new box might not solve your problem.
Thanks for this thread.
My 92' B350 Roadtrek has a lot of steering slop. After doing the tests suggested, I see the slack is in the steering box. The coupler seems tight, but I can turn the shaft by hand a fair amount before it moves the pitman arm. Also, as the arm rotates, it moves side-to-side in the bore of the box. I'll try adjusting the steering box tomorrow and see how much that helps, but I see a new steering box in my future.
I'm leaning towards the "Redhead" box, and a new coupler while I'm at it. I've seen too many comments where a reman box was not much of an improvement.
I don't want to do this twice...it's too tall to fit in my garage so I have to do it in the driveway.
Should I do the "Borgeson" coupler?
In for a penny...
My 92' B350 Roadtrek has a lot of steering slop. After doing the tests suggested, I see the slack is in the steering box. The coupler seems tight, but I can turn the shaft by hand a fair amount before it moves the pitman arm. Also, as the arm rotates, it moves side-to-side in the bore of the box. I'll try adjusting the steering box tomorrow and see how much that helps, but I see a new steering box in my future.
I'm leaning towards the "Redhead" box, and a new coupler while I'm at it. I've seen too many comments where a reman box was not much of an improvement.
I don't want to do this twice...it's too tall to fit in my garage so I have to do it in the driveway.
Should I do the "Borgeson" coupler?
In for a penny...
Thanks for this thread.
My 92' B350 Roadtrek has a lot of steering slop. After doing the tests suggested, I see the slack is in the steering box. The coupler seems tight, but I can turn the shaft by hand a fair amount before it moves the pitman arm. Also, as the arm rotates, it moves side-to-side in the bore of the box. I'll try adjusting the steering box tomorrow and see how much that helps, but I see a new steering box in my future.
I'm leaning towards the "Redhead" box, and a new coupler while I'm at it. I've seen too many comments where a reman box was not much of an improvement.
I don't want to do this twice...it's too tall to fit in my garage so I have to do it in the driveway.
Should I do the "Borgeson" coupler?
In for a penny...
My 92' B350 Roadtrek has a lot of steering slop. After doing the tests suggested, I see the slack is in the steering box. The coupler seems tight, but I can turn the shaft by hand a fair amount before it moves the pitman arm. Also, as the arm rotates, it moves side-to-side in the bore of the box. I'll try adjusting the steering box tomorrow and see how much that helps, but I see a new steering box in my future.
I'm leaning towards the "Redhead" box, and a new coupler while I'm at it. I've seen too many comments where a reman box was not much of an improvement.
I don't want to do this twice...it's too tall to fit in my garage so I have to do it in the driveway.
Should I do the "Borgeson" coupler?
In for a penny...
I think the borgeson shaft requires some other modifications as well....
The Redhead box shows of their website, so I hope it's available!
Something I'm puzzled about, is that the "rag joint" is mentioned in different threads, and my B350 van doesn't have one. I've had them on different rigs I've owned, so I think I'm maybe asking my questions in the wrong forum?
Does the truck have a "rag joint"?
I think I'll just get the stock coupler for this. I don't need any more challenges right now.
Something I'm puzzled about, is that the "rag joint" is mentioned in different threads, and my B350 van doesn't have one. I've had them on different rigs I've owned, so I think I'm maybe asking my questions in the wrong forum?
Does the truck have a "rag joint"?
I think I'll just get the stock coupler for this. I don't need any more challenges right now.
Try performing a steering gear, "over center" adjustment. Think this will solve a lot of the loose steering issues providing the linkage is still in good shape. And, it's free.
First, make sure the wheels are in the straight ahead position - this is important. On the top of the steering box you will see a locknut surrounding an Allen bolt adjusting screw - believe the nut is an 11/16. Put a hex wrench into the Allen bolt hole to prevent it from rotating when you break the locknut loose - be sure the Allen bolt hole is clean with no crud in it. Remember the position of the hex head wrench and loosen the locknut.
Then tighten the adjusting screw just a little - like an 1/8 of a turn, perhaps even less and tighten the locknut. It takes very little force to position the adjusting screw. You don't need to bottom it out. Tighten the lock nut and see how much free play there is at the steering wheel. You must have the engine running to check free play at the steering wheel. If the steering is still too loose, then repeat the process and tighten the adjusting bolt a little more.
If you over tighten the adjusting bolt, you will notice the steering will not center itself when driving down the road. You will continually have to, "steer" the car. If there is a binding feeling when the steering wheel is wiggled from left to right as the steering gear goes over center, you are too tight.
Be advised that there will always be play in the steering when whenever the engine is not running - the power steering pump must be providing pressure to the gear when checking steering wheel play. Also, steering wheel play will increase the farther the wheels are turned left or right.
First, make sure the wheels are in the straight ahead position - this is important. On the top of the steering box you will see a locknut surrounding an Allen bolt adjusting screw - believe the nut is an 11/16. Put a hex wrench into the Allen bolt hole to prevent it from rotating when you break the locknut loose - be sure the Allen bolt hole is clean with no crud in it. Remember the position of the hex head wrench and loosen the locknut.
Then tighten the adjusting screw just a little - like an 1/8 of a turn, perhaps even less and tighten the locknut. It takes very little force to position the adjusting screw. You don't need to bottom it out. Tighten the lock nut and see how much free play there is at the steering wheel. You must have the engine running to check free play at the steering wheel. If the steering is still too loose, then repeat the process and tighten the adjusting bolt a little more.
If you over tighten the adjusting bolt, you will notice the steering will not center itself when driving down the road. You will continually have to, "steer" the car. If there is a binding feeling when the steering wheel is wiggled from left to right as the steering gear goes over center, you are too tight.
Be advised that there will always be play in the steering when whenever the engine is not running - the power steering pump must be providing pressure to the gear when checking steering wheel play. Also, steering wheel play will increase the farther the wheels are turned left or right.
Last edited by jakedodgevan; Mar 18, 2025 at 12:19 AM.








