Nope. And the clutch is the correct direction too, just double checked today.

I appreciate the questions. I don't mean to be dismissive, I do feel we have checked all sorts of stuff besides just starting to swap parts but I am thinking that's where we are getting to. Too much new stuff at once makes it hard to isolate anything without doing that.

 

Thing is, with all the new parts, it SHOULDN'T be doing that........ I can't think of any reason for it. Unless the radiator got plugged up? (I know, it's new.... you would think it would be pristine on the inside.....) You have coolant flowing, the Fan should be working as intended, but, you are still overheating.

Try exploring around the radiator with your temp gun. Temp should fall off evenly across the radiator, and down. Shoot a bunch of different spots, see if anything interesting presents itself.

Bad head gasket?? Might consider doing the chem test for combustion products in the coolant......

 

Just some thoughts...

Be careful with this issue...another few times over 230 and your transmission will give yo the big FU

The only change is the manifold...Did you try putting the old one back on?
Personally, I have messed up seating the manifold on the gaskets. The gaskets like to move. (Ive messed this up twice) The only way I have been able to assure that I don't seat it incorrectly is to remove the belt accessory bracket that is bolted to the top front of the motor. A gasket could be blocking several passages too? It would still looking like that the coolant is running if this is happening.

 

Just my two cents, fan clutch is bad
You mentioned it will creep up in temp just idling, that’s what makes me think it’s a bad fan clutch


my project vehicle never over heats, it does run hot, I’m running a 195 tstat and autometer gauge that’s accurate and my fan clutch starts to engage at 220. Running a 9 blade fan with a v10 clutch and 3 core radiator

Just ran the 5 freeway tejon pass known as “the grapevine” here in California at 105 degrees outside, it’s like a 6 degree grade for 5 miles!! ...never got over 230 and actualy ran 210-215 after clutch locked up .....it sounds like a jet engine!!

Try and find a v10 clutch and fan in the bone yard it will be an investment you won’t regret!!



viperdave

 

Is it the same as the oem one? I have noticed on some aftermarket rads if you count the number of cooling tubes they can vary. I had an issue with temps going high until i replaced the radiator. I put them side by side and noticed that the old one had about 3 less tubes compared to the new one. With the new rad it never goes above 210(180 stat). Also if your t stat doesn't have the air bleeder drill a 1/8 hole in it. It's near impossible to burp the system the way it's designed. I would remove the temp sensor that way you know all the air is out of it. To check the fan clutch start the vehicle(after sitting over night preferably) then rev the motor to 2k or above. If you hear a roar coming from the fan then you know the clutch is working.

 

Climbing at idle is because the fan isn't working. But above 35 MPH a fan isn't necessary because the forward motion of the vehicle forces enough air through the radiator.

1. Have you tried running it with the t-stat removed?
2. Have you considered there's a blown head gasket?
3. Are you sure air is passing through the radiator and nothing is in the way, like a piece of cardboard?

 

I agree with alloro, try it without a tstat. It shouldn’t get hot at all without a tstat, and actually run realy cold,

if it still gets hot, then have it checked for bad head gasket.




Viperdave