1984 B150 Ram Van compression and leak down test
Thanks "HeyYou". Am I to assume when installing the damper and timing cover that when the "0" on the damper meets "0" this will point the rotor to #1? In other words the outer timing marks are different than inner cam and crank marks?
Second question (thanks for all the help guys):
Now the front corners of the oil pan are scraped off. Can gray (the Right Stuff) rtv sealer be used in the corners where the bottom bolts go when replacing the timing cover? I have the front half circle pan gasket and paper timing cover gasket.
Or do I have to jack up the motor and drop the pan? Gads. It's endless! Would probably have to rig up some guide bolts to get the oil pan back on there too. :-/
Now the front corners of the oil pan are scraped off. Can gray (the Right Stuff) rtv sealer be used in the corners where the bottom bolts go when replacing the timing cover? I have the front half circle pan gasket and paper timing cover gasket.
Or do I have to jack up the motor and drop the pan? Gads. It's endless! Would probably have to rig up some guide bolts to get the oil pan back on there too. :-/
I didn't drop the pan when I did mine. Didn't tear the gasket when I pulled the cover either. (I got lucky.
) I put a small dab down in those corners though, and had to 'influence' the cover to get it to go down on the alignment pins. 
If you didn't move the cam or crank when the gears were off, everything should still be lined up properly. I never bothered with the timing marks when I did mine, as I made sure nothing moved during the process.
) I put a small dab down in those corners though, and had to 'influence' the cover to get it to go down on the alignment pins. 
If you didn't move the cam or crank when the gears were off, everything should still be lined up properly. I never bothered with the timing marks when I did mine, as I made sure nothing moved during the process.
Got the chain on and started installing the timing cover. Kinda tricky with a globby set of corner gaskets. I pulled the T cover down on the 2 pan bolts, then slid the damper on the make sure it was aligned through the seal hole. I had used Permatex "the right stuff" RTV on the gaskets. That stuff dries too fast. Might be great but there is no working time and with that cover I found myself trying to figure out all of the brackets that have to go on with the bolts. As well, the water pump is a bag of snakes trying to figure that bracket mess out. Long story short.....I forgot to oil the timing chain! had to take it all apart and the gaskets were ruined! argh!. Live an learn.
What do you guys use that has a little bit more working time when it comes to timing chain cover and water pump sealers? Would an old school flange sealant (non drying) be a better bet?
Do you leave the rubber C lip pan gasket dry? Just RTV in the mating corner gasket areas?
Also, what do you guys put on the TC and water pump threads?
Oh and can I reuse the Crank 1-1/4" bolt? And should I use a thread locker on that?
Appreciate your input! Thanks again for helping me.
Remember this is a 1984 Dodge B150 van :-)
What do you guys use that has a little bit more working time when it comes to timing chain cover and water pump sealers? Would an old school flange sealant (non drying) be a better bet?
Do you leave the rubber C lip pan gasket dry? Just RTV in the mating corner gasket areas?
Also, what do you guys put on the TC and water pump threads?
Oh and can I reuse the Crank 1-1/4" bolt? And should I use a thread locker on that?
Appreciate your input! Thanks again for helping me.
Remember this is a 1984 Dodge B150 van :-)
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...ealant-liquid/
Thanks this helps. Do you guys remember putting sealant on the rubber lip of the pan? Or is it best to leave that dry?
Also, I'm reusing the crank bolt. That OK? I read somewhere that maybe that could get replaced. maybe it is designed to stretch. Heck I'm reusing ALL the bolts.
Also, I'm reusing the crank bolt. That OK? I read somewhere that maybe that could get replaced. maybe it is designed to stretch. Heck I'm reusing ALL the bolts.
Guys, my felpro gasket kit has metal gaskets for the intake (and 2 blue ones which are for a bigger intake I guess). Should I use some permatex gray "the right stuff" around the (only) the water jackets on both sides of the gasket? This is a crush type gasket - looks like the original. The kit came with cork seals for block which I hear are not great but will be putting RTV gray on those as well. Putting it together now. Could use some advise asap! Thanks again for any help.
....and YES I could have taken better dismantling pictures. (thought I had it covered!) I have a bracket nightmare going on - trying to figure out bolts and brackets for the water pump. Been trying to find diagrams online. Jeesh
pic of intake gaskets
....and YES I could have taken better dismantling pictures. (thought I had it covered!) I have a bracket nightmare going on - trying to figure out bolts and brackets for the water pump. Been trying to find diagrams online. Jeesh
pic of intake gaskets
Last edited by sparkyj; Apr 2, 2020 at 01:33 PM.
Yeah, a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the intake gasket where the coolant passages are, and a good bead across the china walls, and you are golden. Just gotta be careful setting the intake back down, to make sure you don't roll the stuff off the china walls.








