Frame fix it replace Ran van 1500
have a 99 ram van conversion 1500. Very low miles like 55000. Like many others it is very rusty on the frame. We fixed the stuff around the steering in the front successfully, but on the rear of the frame there is really bad rust. My question is is it possible to get an entirely new frame for these vehicles? Or being a unibody is it possible to cut out whole sections and section in new pieces? Obviously I hate to junk a van with this much life still in it mechanically
Your van is a unibody, it is not a body bolted to a frame. I have a 1999 Ram Van as well. However it is possible to replace the frame rails which are part of the unibody structure design. You can properly support the body and cut out the rotted frame rails and weld in new ones. A good body shop can do it but Im not sure it would be worth it to pay someone to do it. I would transfer all your good parts over to a van that had a solid frame. I built my cargo van up from the junk yard vans including the whole interior with headliner. Inside of mine looks nice but the outside still looks like a cargo van.
Your van is a unibody, it is not a body bolted to a frame. I have a 1999 Ram Van as well. However it is possible to replace the frame rails which are part of the unibody structure design. You can properly support the body and cut out the rotted frame rails and weld in new ones. A good body shop can do it but Im not sure it would be worth it to pay someone to do it. I would transfer all your good parts over to a van that had a solid frame.
There may be a bolt-on subframe up front...... if that's the case, might be able to find one of those......
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I answered your other thread before seeing this one...
there's no reason you can't get some long pieces of steel and rosette weld it over the unibody for the rear length of the van, then attach new brackets. I'd go to a local fab shop with a big shear, press brake and punch press... have them make some z shaped pieces that will fit over the frame "rails" then punch 1" holes in them every so often (you'll have to do the math to see how far apart, etc... then fit them over the rails and weld them on... much like frame stiffeners the offroad guys weld to the uinbody on a jeep to stiffen and strengthen them...
there's no reason you can't get some long pieces of steel and rosette weld it over the unibody for the rear length of the van, then attach new brackets. I'd go to a local fab shop with a big shear, press brake and punch press... have them make some z shaped pieces that will fit over the frame "rails" then punch 1" holes in them every so often (you'll have to do the math to see how far apart, etc... then fit them over the rails and weld them on... much like frame stiffeners the offroad guys weld to the uinbody on a jeep to stiffen and strengthen them...
I answered your other thread before seeing this one...
there's no reason you can't get some long pieces of steel and rosette weld it over the unibody for the rear length of the van, then attach new brackets. I'd go to a local fab shop with a big shear, press brake and punch press... have them make some z shaped pieces that will fit over the frame "rails" then punch 1" holes in them every so often (you'll have to do the math to see how far apart, etc... then fit them over the rails and weld them on... much like frame stiffeners the offroad guys weld to the uinbody on a jeep to stiffen and strengthen them...
there's no reason you can't get some long pieces of steel and rosette weld it over the unibody for the rear length of the van, then attach new brackets. I'd go to a local fab shop with a big shear, press brake and punch press... have them make some z shaped pieces that will fit over the frame "rails" then punch 1" holes in them every so often (you'll have to do the math to see how far apart, etc... then fit them over the rails and weld them on... much like frame stiffeners the offroad guys weld to the uinbody on a jeep to stiffen and strengthen them...
ANOTHER UNDERBODY PIC
UNDERCOATED WHEN NEW. NE OH, 30 YRS OLD
just fyi... on my 99 ram, there was a front area that was rotted under the battery, I just cut it out and welded new pieces over the area to replace what I cut out.
you would also find that 2" x 3" square tube (I used 1/4" wall, but 3/16 would work well also), will match up the width of the unibody rails...
On mine... I built a front subframe to mount springs for front axle out of 2" x 4" 1/4" wall tubing and then ran 3" x 3" and 2" x 3" 1/4" wall tubing along the unibody rails and rosette and stitch welded 3/16 plate to both sides of both square tube and unibody rails... I used over a half sheet of 3/16 plate... I also built 2 new cross members and transmission mount to make up for what I cut out of the original tunnel support structure to make rom for the transfer case... so I added quite a bit of weight, but don't have to worry about flexing / twisting the body with "normal" planned uses... and the unibody is as thick and strong as a regular old school frame for most of the parts that hold any real load... oh... Dana 60 front and rear axles, limited slip / locker, 4.10 gears...
btw. one of the steering brace set-ups will do a lot to help remove any flex from the steering...
and lastly... most industrial fab shops, if you show up on a Friday afternoon and buy the guys lunch or something, talk nice you can usually get smaller jobs like stiffener / reenforcing plates made pretty easily as well as getting them to order steel for you at their prices... I haunt a couple shops in town going through their drop and extras bins for my projects and they're always willing to hook me up on smaller jobs and such for reasonable money...
you would also find that 2" x 3" square tube (I used 1/4" wall, but 3/16 would work well also), will match up the width of the unibody rails...
On mine... I built a front subframe to mount springs for front axle out of 2" x 4" 1/4" wall tubing and then ran 3" x 3" and 2" x 3" 1/4" wall tubing along the unibody rails and rosette and stitch welded 3/16 plate to both sides of both square tube and unibody rails... I used over a half sheet of 3/16 plate... I also built 2 new cross members and transmission mount to make up for what I cut out of the original tunnel support structure to make rom for the transfer case... so I added quite a bit of weight, but don't have to worry about flexing / twisting the body with "normal" planned uses... and the unibody is as thick and strong as a regular old school frame for most of the parts that hold any real load... oh... Dana 60 front and rear axles, limited slip / locker, 4.10 gears...
btw. one of the steering brace set-ups will do a lot to help remove any flex from the steering...
and lastly... most industrial fab shops, if you show up on a Friday afternoon and buy the guys lunch or something, talk nice you can usually get smaller jobs like stiffener / reenforcing plates made pretty easily as well as getting them to order steel for you at their prices... I haunt a couple shops in town going through their drop and extras bins for my projects and they're always willing to hook me up on smaller jobs and such for reasonable money...
Last edited by wca_tim; Feb 11, 2020 at 11:17 PM.










