I've got a 99 Ram Van 3500 with the 4000 lb front axle and a bad upper ball joint on the driver's side. I got the big socket and a 5 ft cheater bar, and was able to unscrew and remove the old ball joint, but I can't get a new one to go in.

I started out with the el cheap-o Master Pro from O'Reilly's, but the threads were slightly closer together than the original and the top was slightly too large for the special socket. Couldn't get the threads started since they don't match the ones in the control arm, so I returned the piece of junk ball joint and bought the Moog instead.

The main body of the Moog ball joint is just slightly larger in diameter than the original, so it won't slip far enough into the UCA to start the threads. Tapping it in with a rubber mallet didn't help, and besides, I worry that the slightly larger body will damage the threads in the UCA if I try to force it.

I tried the local dealership, but they say the part is discontinued and recommend the Moog, which I've already tried unsuccessfully. I have a trip coming up this weekend that I really don't want to cancel, but I can't for the life of me get this stupid ball joint to go in.

At this point, I feel like I've got 4 options:
1. Stick the Moog in the freezer for a while, heat up the upper control arm with a propane torch, and then try to install it.
2. Grind or file the Moog ball joint below the threads to reduce the diameter and get it to drop into place so I can screw it in.
3. Return the Moog, get a new boot, and re-install my old ball joint with the new boot. Grease the heck out of it, and call it good.
4. Replace the whole upper control arm. I really don't want to do this, since there's nothing actually wrong with my existing one, I suspect the aftermarket UCA will be lower quality than OE, and I already feel like I'm hemorrhaging money.

What do you recommend? Have I overlooked something? Are these ideas stupid? It's just killing me that I actually have the right tools and the right parts, and I still can't get the stupid thing to work!

 

If it ain't real far, take the new balljoint, AND the old one, back to the parts store, show 'em what ya got going on, and see if they offer any suggestions. It may NOT be the correct part.... also, if the part below the threads won't fit thru the hole, it's highly likely that the threads aren't correct as well.

 

Well, I ended up sticking the Moog ball joint in the freezer for a couple hours, and heating the UCA with a propane torch. Then I quickly smeared some grease on the threads and threaded it in. I had to use my breaker bar and 5 ft cheater bar to get it tightened all the way down, but it worked!

 

good deal.......

 

I'm curious, was the moog ball joint a "problem saver"? I put 4 new ball joints in my van. I got them all on eBay at heavily discounted prices. One of them was a problem saver that was designed a little bigger so as to solve a problem with the control arm hole being too big. That one I had to take the control arm to a shop and let them put install. It took him a while.

 

You know, that's a good question. I didn't think so, as it wasn't listed as a "problem saver" on O'Reilly's website. But the description for the same model number (K7082) does mention "problem solving gusher bearing". That could be it, I suppose.

 

The Chysler manual says to remove the boot and retainer ring prior to threading the ball stud, and then attaching them in after the joint is threaded to 135 ft lb depending upon size.

This could be why there was difficulty in trying to thread the joint initially.

 

No, I did that. The metal part of the ball joint that the boot fits over is what didn't fit through the hole in the upper control arm until I put the ball joint in the freezer and used a propane torch on the UCA.

 

So what you're saying is, you removed the boot and the clip, heated the UCA and froze the joint, installed it, and then reinstalled the boot and clip on the other side? Did you freeze the boot and clip as well?

Your posts never mentioned anything about the boot, which is why I brought it up, and it's the primary reason that people have a problem starting the thread on that joint.

Aside from that, the ball stud has a torque setting, and it isn't "all the way down" with a 5' cheater bar. That changes things. Sorry, not trying to be abrasive, and the reason I ask is that I'm about to thread some joints myself. Taking all things into consideration.

 

Yes, that's exactly what I did.

No. I only froze the ball joint itself--not the boot, clip, nut, or anything else.

Makes sense. I probably should have been more explicit. It just never occurred to me that somebody might not remove the boot before trying to install, since the remains of the old boot had to come off for the old ball joint to come out, and the new boot was clearly way too big to go through the hole.

Agreed. That's part of why I'm pretty sure I cross-threaded the new ball joint. If this one ever goes bad on me, I just expect to have to change the whole UCA, because I'm certain I jacked up the threads.

No worries.