Hey there everyone. Just joined the forum so this is my first post here and I'm really in need of some help. Always found great info on here over the last 8 months of having the van so really hoping someone can help me out here.

So I've replaced the 120a alternator on my 94 B350 after having the battery cable short directly behind the alternator and melt the insulation and its plastic housing at the alt.

Turns out the old one tested fine at AutoZone, but the new ones in and I'm just moving on.

I'm now attempting to change the battery cable so I can get her going, and while unwrapping the electrical tape leading to the battery, I came across the fusible links and am very concerned with what I'm seeing. Can't tell if this is shotty work from the previous owner, something that happened as a result of the alternator arc(some melting?), or if there is no issue at all here and its just factory wiring.

I can obviously tell the purple wire needs fixed at the far right connector. But as for all the small wires seemingly being glued to a (prob. 4-6ga.) wire coming from the battery side of things, and the purple wire also being wrapped around it, I can't help be wonder WHAT TO DO HERE.

PLEASE HELP): My gf and I are headed to Cali from Southern Cali in a few days for a surgery she is in need of and I've towed it to 2 shops for he battery cable and 4 days later, no shop wants to take that on. I'm having to do this myself now and it's the only reason I've come across the fusible links.
Thanks again and apologies for the lengthy post.

 

It looks like a burnt fusible link was replaced with a piece of regular wire, is that correct?
If so remove the wire and add a fusible link back in. The new fusible link should be soldered in place and not just wrapped. You'll likely have to tap into the vehicle harness a bit further back since that copper you see will not take solder in the condition it's in.

 

Hey there alloro,
That purple wire hanging by a thread seems to be a fusible link with a BLK/PINK wire and RED/GRN wire on the other end of it. Which I found to be part of the ABS system. None of the diagrams show these even leading to the same link at all. Just the RED/GRN into a Hypolon fusible link. But I guess its how this one is wired?

If I understood you right. Can I cut the rubber link off, keep the 2 ABS wires together, butt connect them to a replacement for the purple wire, and tap it back into the bare copper further back how you mentioned?

Basically the black alternator output is going into what seems to be a fuselink, turns into a short green wire that taps into that bare copper we're seeing with everything tapped into. That bare copper ends up being the wire that leads to battery.

Hopefully this clears this mess up a bit further as well.
Thanks again!

 

Just realized I'd be defeating the purpose of a fuselink if I just butt connect them. Noone near me has these kinds of links in store. Could I connect an inline fuse to the ABS wires, butt connect the purple wire's replacement on the other end of the inline, then solder that to the battery cable? If so what size fuse would I need?

 

A fusable link can handle a spike in current, where as a fuse cannot, it will blow. Determine the max amps that the red wire can handle by design and start there with a fuse if thats what you want to try.

 

Use a slow-blow inline fuse. Should be specs for the fusible links somewhere. (I would expect the dealership would know, if you can find someone that knows how to look them up.....)

 

Sorry for going MIA there. Thanks for all of your help it been a crazy last few days here. I got the van started up again, changed the battery-alternator cable and shes charging beautifully.
Cleaned up wiring for voltage reg as well. Have some fuse links on the way and had to do something temporary til I can get these links in.

Now what I ended up having to do after replacing the battery cable was cut about 1" off the insulation and tap all those fuse links back into the battery cable how they were prior. I really didn't want to do that but at least it is done a lot cleaner than it was before and she runs. Now I haven't soldered them just yet bc I really want to check in here and here what ya'll have to say.

I don't know if all these fuselinks came tapped into the battery cable from factory. Is this how they SHOULD be anyway? or just a previous owners bandaid?

Just want to avoid any draws from the battery if everything just tapped into it. After reinstalling all these links to the same power source as before, this is what is new.
-No power windows (power locks still function), cabin fusebox for windows is a breaker that looks intact
-Upon shifting into reverse, E-brake light comes on.
-Upon hitting ANY button on the AC controls, E-brake light comes on.
-Noticed a draw from the interior lighting fuse. Pulled it. No more draw! However, when putting fuse back in for testing all of a sudden pressing the window buttons ALSO turns on the E-brake light. when the windows are on a separate fuse slot anyway....

Any tips here?

 

Could be a bad ground issue, just guessing.