Hi All,
As my previous career was a contractor, I've owned a lot of Dodge Ram Vans over the years.... I've always found them reliable, durable, and spacious. Great haulers. My '97 and '00 were getting pretty rusty, so I sold them and found a pristine 2001 15-passenger b3500. It spent 20+ years in Texas, owned by an older fellow who used it to haul people back n forth to their church. Only 17,2xx miles. No rust. Thing is like a time capsule.

I attached a few pics. Now that it's a Midwest vehicle, I had the underside sprayed with wool waxed this week.

I've never been a mechanic, and always had an employee handle vehicle maintenance. Now that I've changed careers, I'll probably be on here asking some questions (as I no longer have "a guy")!

1- Any off-the-bat maintenance you guys would recommend? I've already done an oil and trans fluid change, a few front-end suspension items, 2 new tires, and fixed a few small things (couple door locks didn't work for ex). Anything else that might be a good idea right away? I plan to keep this guy for a while.

2- Where can I find a free FSM in .pdf format? I've been looking around this site and google and can't seem to find it. The trucks always pop up instead.

Cheers


Pics:








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Wow, that's quite the find. May wanna flush the cooling system. Don't think I would worry about the rear diff.....

 

Wow - nice van. That is pretty cool. The underside looks like mine

It really depends on what purpose you are going to us your van for. If you are just running around, and always within walking distance of a CPS or coil, then probably not much if everything is as pristine as you say they are. Just make sure you have a few tools with you.

There is always the obligatory plugs, wires, cap, rotor and a coil. Bad plug wires will show as various or the same over and over misfire code. Also the IAC likes to get dirty on these motors, and with low milage at the age you are at, you probably should clean it out. There are several suspension joints that need to be greased at that age. And age is what you are going to be working against IF you have any issues. These vans are pretty reliable as long as they are taken care of.

To find real problems, a vehicle needs to be run through a heat soak ie. 1-2 hour run on various roads and speeds. Then that is when weaknesses are found. Electrical resistance goes up and when things get hot, so you may find electrical issues like funny radio operation or some circuit that just doesnt work right. I believe these vans have a strange grounding plane so I would check the ground strap from the motor up to the battery. It is in a really dirty place, coming from the bottom LH side of the motor and if it is oil/dirt/clay soaked, you can have weird ECM/transmission/radio/accessory etc. issues. I added at secondary ground strap using a lawn mower (4 gauge) cable. It comes off the battery on to the body right next to it on the fender. It seems to help. I also have had issues with the battery cables just coming loose too (more maybe a Chinesium thing).

Also, at the age of these vans, all of the sway bar bushings probably are or will go bad soon if they have never been changed. The same may go for the hoses, but those if they have been out of the heat and cold, may be OK. Also the belt may need to be replaced, but if it looks OK, it probably is...but ya know its old...

I am on my third radiator. The plastic tank original likes to crack when it gets old (3+ years) and I had a Kmart special one only last 2 years and then a 'racing aluminum' one last one year...The OEM one was the best so far (10 years), and right now I am battling this issue again. Im, with some advice here, got the CSF one and I am looking forward to it. It is hot here in SW Florida If you have the OEM one, try to keep it for as long as you can

The PCM will want to give out someday. The voltage regulator runs through the PCM so it gets used a lot. Heat and the grounding issues I was talking about seem to accelerate this issue. FWIW I am on my second PCM. My original kicked the bucket while going down I-4 and it just happened - I was screwed LOL

The crankshaft position sensor seems to like to die too...but sometimes, I think people are experiencing a neutral saftey switch issue. I experienced both a bad CPS before and a bad neutral saftey switch. When you turn the key and it doesnt start, put it in neutral and try to start it. If it starts, it is your shift cable or neutral saftey switch Another one is

Another weird one is when you ignition switch goes...the windows along with the radio and other things will stop working but the van still runs. The power door locks on the side door and rear door can stop working. This is because the pancake connections on the frame of the door get dirty and rusty. A little sandpaper works wonders there. When you get to 200K miles like me you will start changing the ball joints, radius bushings, u-joints, ring and pinions, springs, carpet, window regulators, and the fuel pump - just for good measure LOL

What is amazing is that these vans have nothing "stupid" about them concerning working on them. I was a Ford technician for a few years when I was young, and also was a parts guy and I have only had to buy one special tool to work on these vans (and it was an upper ball joint socket). There is nothing where something else is in the way or you have to take out stupid things like the whole dash to fix things. It is nice to be able to sit down with the doghouse off and do the plugs, wires and distributor stuff/top engine stuff. It is actually almost enjoyable to work on these -- except for this latest adventure of Chinesium I am dealing with LOL

im sure Ive forgot a few things - but just ask

 

very clean van

 

17k miles! What a score! What kind of trans fluid did you use? I hear that these are finicky, so I used OEM fluid ATF+4.
As a little preventative maintenance, I use a fluid exchanger (it's like a giant syringe with a hose on the end) and swap out power steering fluid and brake fluid. Then bleed the brakes to get the old fluid out of the wheel cylinders and calipers. Personally, I'd normally do the differential oil as well, but with only 17k on the clock, it's probably still looking like new.
Grease all the suspension zerks. (I think there are 10 of them down there) The front wheel bearing have to be packed on these as a regular service item. Of course the air filter is always worth checking.

 

Great find!

I bought the same van- 2001 3500 5.9 extended cab passanger with 68,000 mi. and thought I was doing good. It was a factory high top and I converted it to a camper with 105,000 mi. now after road trips all over the country.

Beyond the great advice you've already been given I would add two things. If and when the voltage regulator goes in the PCM I would suggest there are no longer reasons to hesitate putting in an external voltage regulator. I did 20,000 mi ago with no problem at all. These modern voltage regulators come with complete wiring harness and does not cause your PCM to turn on the check engine light.

Also, if you can afford it, I would find your next PCM on eBay or somewhere, have it flashed to your VIN no. and buy it now. I've come to understand your mileage is not part of what needs to be flashed even though some sellers ask for it. The thing is a particular PCM can be hard to find, can take weeks to find one for $350 instead of $650. Also as time goes by these PCM prices go up and up. When my PCM goes, and it will, I swap in the replacement I already have and look for the next. Keep those PCM connectors tight too. I use 6 zip ties around the back of the PCM around both sides of each of the 3 connectors.

Best of Luck.

 

Woof! Did you get that from a museum? When I get a new project or driver, I change the coolant, thermostat and oil as well as flush the brake system. That way I know when it was done last. Antifreeze never goes away. After 5 years though, the anti-corrosion part of the coolant fades and you get electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Iron block and aluminum water pumps for instance. I've seen water pumps that look great but the impellers inside had corroded away.

One thing to watch for is your exhaust. When it isn't driven much, an exhaust system will rust inside and collapse. Long drives will cook the acids out but short driving lets water and acids from gasoline being burned build up and rot the exhaust from the inside out.

 

Well the subscription feed on this site must have gone to spam or something..... as I never received notifications that there were replies. I'm not on here much so I assumed no one responded!

Thank you ALL for the replies - and all of the detailed explanations. Much appreciated! I don't have the know-how or time to work on a lot of that stuff, so I will be printing your comments and giving it to my mechanic.

Does anyone know where I can find an FSM?

 

I looked hard for an FSM free PDF download for my 2001 DRV but could never find one. I finally bought a hard copy for $100 on eBay and it has paid for itself.