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Old Feb 12, 2024 | 05:03 PM
  #51  
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Dorman make a one-man bleeding nipple, it has a spring loaded valve which allows, when the nipple is loosened, the fluid and air to run through, but spring pressure closes the valve when the brakes are released.

No doubt you can find it on eBay.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2024 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray Bell
Dorman make a one-man bleeding nipple, it has a spring loaded valve which allows, when the nipple is loosened, the fluid and air to run through, but spring pressure closes the valve when the brakes are released.

No doubt you can find it on eBay.

I've got a full set of the one man bleeders. None have ever had the proper threads to go into calipers or wheel cylinders. I've got an Expedition waiting on a pair of rotors and I'll be doing the looped hose technique on it. I'm hoping the rear bleed valves don't snap off as I've found when they do that, it's time for a rebuild. One caliper up front was seized and made braking.....interesting.



Occasionally, it would grab and not let go. Mostly, it did nothing. That's how rust builds up on the pads.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2024 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
People who don't know brake systems will think w're getting dirty minded here. The weight of an inch or so of fluid in the bottle will prevent cavitation on the hose. This will pull fluid down and get things going. You probably already have clean fluid through the system. You work the right rear until air bubbles quit coming out. This is the longest line so this is the one to take time. I usually press the pedal down 3 or 4 times and check the fluid column. If you see some bubbles, check the master cylinder and press 4 or 5 more time.When it's clear, go to the left rear. That line will draw from a cleared line and is only 2 feet or so long. There again 3 or 4 pumps and check the fluid column.

I have tried vacuum pumps but sometimes you draw air around the threads. This is pure positive pressure. Just make sure the master is kept full so you don't [pull more air in at the top.
I have one of those vacuum pumps that I bought over the weekend, I pumped up vacuum, then opened a rear bleeder screw as the instructions said.. Vacuum dropped to zero, not sure what I did wrong
 
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Old Feb 13, 2024 | 09:01 PM
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I've not had alot of success with the vacuum bleeding as they always suck air around the nipple or the hose where it attaches to the nipple. You see bubbles coming out, but it's not coming from inside the brake line. You will need to remove the nipple and grease it up to seal that area and then the hose need to fit very tightly on the nipple.

Does your vacuum pump have a catch bottle?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2024 | 09:24 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 1996 B2500
I have one of those vacuum pumps that I bought over the weekend, I pumped up vacuum, then opened a rear bleeder screw as the instructions said.. Vacuum dropped to zero, not sure what I did wrong

Where did you attach the pump? You need to attach to the bleeder you want to bleed. Pressure from the bleeder if you're attached to it will fill the vacuum.

I replaced the front brakes on my '04 Furd and flushed the entire system today. I had a problem with getting a solid pedal. Then I noticed a large spot of fluid. One fitting wasn't quite tight. If I can do that with 50+ years working on brakes, you can possibly do it too. Just work along the lines and take your time.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2024 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Where did you attach the pump? You need to attach to the bleeder you want to bleed. Pressure from the bleeder if you're attached to it will fill the vacuum.

I replaced the front brakes on my '04 Furd and flushed the entire system today. I had a problem with getting a solid pedal. Then I noticed a large spot of fluid. One fitting wasn't quite tight. If I can do that with 50+ years working on brakes, you can possibly do it too. Just work along the lines and take your time.
I attached to the bleeder screw then pumped. I got the pedal a touch better still going to 3" above floor before I hit brake regardless if I pump it or not. A local shop quoted me a price of $40 to pressure bleed my brakes. The mechanic I talked to asked me if I had double checked the adjustment of the rear shoes. I told him I wasn't sure if I had them adjusted to have a slight amount of drag or not. So I'll be doing that tomorrow. At least I solved the front brakes issue, they performed as they should.

 
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Old Feb 14, 2024 | 08:26 PM
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Is the pedal spongy at all? Or is it firm, once you start getting into 'braking' territory? Did you adjust the rear brakes properly? (those are what control pedal height....)
 
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Old Feb 14, 2024 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Is the pedal spongy at all? Or is it firm, once you start getting into 'braking' territory? Did you adjust the rear brakes properly? (those are what control pedal height....)
Pedal goes down about halfway then I get good firm brake. I'm thinking maybe I don't have the rears adjusted right. Will double check and correct as needed
 
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Old Feb 15, 2024 | 08:18 AM
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Sounds like a plan. You want to adjust the rear shoes so they are just barely touching the drum. I suspect that will solve you issue.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2024 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Sounds like a plan. You want to adjust the rear shoes so they are just barely touching the drum. I suspect that will solve you issue.
I jacked up each rear wheel and spun the tire, and sure enough, the shoes aren't even touching the drums, I thought I had adjusted them but apparently I forgot to (WOOPS) So I'll proceed to adjust the rears to where they have just a slight drag and hopefully that will solve the issue!
 
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