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2000 Dodge Ram Van Rear AC

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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 09:58 AM
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Yeah, I suppose it's a bit different on a van...... Just not familiar enough with those. Not even sure if you can get to the blend door without some disassembly.....
 
  #12  
Old Yesterday, 10:19 AM
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Does anybody know where the fresh air and recirculated air comes in on these vans? Any make-shift filters that ya'll have seen installed before?

You can't tell from the picture, but that fuzzy/dirty structure to the right is the blend door(I think). At any rate, it pivots from the back and swings left to close off the area in the middle of the photo with the seal that needs adjustment. I think that is the blend door.

Do you know if it activates with the vehicle turned to on, but not running? I guess I'll give it a try.

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old Yesterday, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MKMcDonough
Thanks.

The bearings feel okay, but I was thinking I’d replace anyway. I was a little surprised when NAPA told me it’s be about $125 though.
I also noticed the door seal in the photo. That spot is just out of reach, but I’ll try again and see if I can push it into place.
What about the blend door. Is there a way to test it without the engine on? I just don’t want my hands down there with the engine fan cranking!
will let y’all know what the evap. clean looks like when I do that too.
Check Amazon for the blower, probably closer to $50 for one. One thing about blowers these days is to test for rotation before installing. All too often, I've found the connector wires were installed wrong and the motor would run in reverse. You can check this by first checking the rotation of the old one, then swap over and plug the new one in, turn the blower switch on and see if it spins in the same direction as the original. If it runs backwards, hit the release for each terminal in the motor connector, slide both wires out, then reinsert them on the opposite sides.

On top of the blower box is a lever with linkage that runs through the firewall, this is the linkage that operates the blend door. If you remove the glove box door, you'll be able to access the linkage where it connects to the actuator. If you release the rod from the actuator, you can then manually operate the blend door by moving the linkage.
 
  #14  
Old Yesterday, 10:31 AM
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Wow, I would have never thought about the polarity being reversed. The one I pulled off has butt-splices at the connector. I wonder if It was found to be spinning in the wrong direction and the previous owner found splicing easier than releasing the pins on the connector. If so, that makes a little sense as to why the fan cable had a butt-splice in it.

I'll check on the mechanical connection to the blender door. I was hoping there was a way to electronically stimulate it so I could test the whole thing in one shot.

Thanks again,
Matt
 
  #15  
Old Yesterday, 11:14 AM
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*Moved post to separate thread*
 

Last edited by MKMcDonough; Yesterday at 08:52 PM.



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