Also, i noticed that the radiator pressure cap on the aluminum ones is rated at 19psi instead of 16psi. Is the a cause for concern?

 

A fair few alternators have internal regulators, Dodge elected (for whatever reason...) not to go that route. The PCM controls alternator output by switching on/off the field windings in the alt, so, kinda-sorta pulse width modulated. If the field windings are always hot, (powered) then you get the full output the alternator is capable of. (17-18 volts) So, since that is exactly what yours is doing, it's one of two things, Either a short to power on the field windings, or, bad voltage regulator, which means... bad PCM.

 

This is the case with just about all the aftermarket radiator manufactures. I got a new radiator from Radiator.com shortly after i got my truck. They are guaranteed for life and they have replaced three so far free of charge. Problem is the aftermarket (stock replacement) ones don't have as many "tubes" as the stock one does. This means it doesn't cool as well. I have seen other posts about these radiators that have X amount of tubes but never say how long or size. And can have less cooling than the stock radiator. So if you do get one make sure you know what you are buying.
This is something only you can answer. Even with a 135a alternator mine sometimes would struggle to keep up. AC on high, lights on e fan on, stuck at a red light idling. Flex a lite makes a replacement fan blade with extra fan blades. This may be a better option if they have one that fits your van rather that go electric. If you do hear back from Alloyworks i would really like to know what they say.

 

Thanks HeyYou for explaining such. As it seems my battery started leaking after replacing the PCM, i'm hoping thats the case but who knows what replacement pcm they will give me, could have exact same problem then im going to think it is my alternator.
I'm going to end up building a external regulator anyways as iv seen a lot of your information around about such.

 

External regulators are more reliable, and MUCH cheaper to replace if they fail. Given that replacement PCM's are a crapshoot on if you get a good one, or not...... If the PCM doesn't have any other issues, the external regulator is most certainly the hot ticket.

 

Moparite, I did look at the radiators on radiator.com however they are very expensive and don't provide any information on them. Seems like just overpriced aftermarket rads with a needed lifetime warranty for reason. Although no matter what even the nicest rad can have problems obviously so the Lifetime warranty is tempting for the extra price. I did find radiatorexpress through these forums and had a great chat with someone, including much off topic information. Although not sure if they are really worth it and I should have asked what type of aluminum they use. Although they just have a company make them for them and probably from china too.

From what i understand about metals, 5052 aluminum is softer so will flex better than copper/brass?
Better for offroad use then?

As far as Alloyworks, its been several days and no response.
Whats funny though is while trying to look for other rads, i came across two companies on amazon. Selling the same exact rads (by description and photo) that Alloyworks sells for the same exact prices just rebranded under two different names.
I might consider getting a 3row aluminum for $180 even if the row dimensions are not that great. I did contact alloyworks on amazon and they did respond.
"Cooling rows are spaced 3/8" apart, giving you 25% more rows within the core than other aluminum radiators sold on Amazon. 14-16 cooling fins per inch"
So, thats great information but not the information i needed.
Instead of paying $270 for a copper/brass rad for probably the same cooling capabilities and less flex, figured take my chance with this 5052 aluminum one, i really cant decide.

The e-fan conversion is also still in tossup, maybe i'll do it later down the road if anything. For now too much to worry about and im supposed to be working on interior build since winter in az is about the only time i can do anything

 

Exactly what a mentioned to my dad last night
I noticed some using a Field Replacement Module (FRM) and some not. Whats up with that part?
Is that to prevent CEL?

Never mind, thats exactly what its for.
I presume this kit will work fine? I was going to buy everything separate but wouldnt save much $.
I also read the FRM will not work all the time to prevent CEL. Is there any reason or workaround for this?
I'm still not sure where the best spot to tie into an ignition source is on the van.

 

I don't know what the PCM thinks needs to be happening for it NOT to turn on the CEL. For folks where the regulator has failed in a no-charge condition, just leaving the PCM hooked up is a possibility, but, as your failed in an overcharge situation, that won't work for you.....

 

I would get a wiring schematic and load test the power and ground wires AT the PCM connectors. Key power, battery power, all grounds. With a nice heavy halogen light. If possible have a voltage meter on the wire to and inspect any drop or loss. I'm not sure where the cluster or OBD port read battery voltage, but in and overcharge condition. I would most certainly make sure there's correct voltage AT the PCM. If it see's low voltage, its going to charge no matter what the battery reads.

 

It wouldn't hurt to check for a good ground (motor body and pcm) and positive battery volts to it also. You may want to test if the ground signal from the pcm is constant or variable. Constant you need to convert to a external regulator. If it's variable (in theory) you could use a resistor to cut the amount of ground going to the alternator. This would cut the amount of output to the battery. Of course you would have to figure out what resistance is needed. This is a bit much and no guarantee the pcm will stay working the same way.
ASD relay would be my choice.
Don't say how long they are. From the description i would think it's like the OE one below. More rows don't always mean more cooling. The radiator manufactures need have a detailed explanation of what they are selling!