2001 Dodge ram 1500 Van 5.2L (part camper conversion) Front a/c only.
So, my radiator is shot.
I've been looking at a few. Including a CSF 3392 from Rockauto for $260 shipped plus tax.
Then AlloyWorks has a 4 row aluminum for $260 shipped plus tax or a 3 row aluminum with e-fan/shroud for $310 shipped plus tax. They are sold out of the 3 row without fan for $180.
Prices don't matter too much at this point.
I looked around on plenty of forums about e-fan conversion and watched some youtube videos but still have questions.
Have a separate trans oil cooler mounted off to the side near power steering cooler.
Alloyworks does not state what size of tubing is used in their rows sadly.

1. What about my stock alternator (presume 117 or 136amp but will try to confirm). The alloyworks fan is 120w 10amp pull. Do i need to worry about my alternator?

2. Do I need a fan controller? Basic kit is included and states
Thermostat Kit:
Work with any 12 volt system.
Universal fit for any automotive vehicle and electric fan.
Activates by grounding electric fans at preset temperature.
185'F turn-on temperature, 165'F turn-off temperature.
3/8" NPT thread-in brass probe included.
Probe typically threads into radiator, water outlet or manifold.
Thermostat Relay Kit Instructions：
RED + connect directly to battery.
WHITE wire to ignition switch power source.
BLACK goes to thermos switch.
BLUE wire goes to the Fans.

3. 165F turnoff is lower than my thermostat installed (not sure what temp i did install anymore, can try to check)
but is it bad to a lower thermostat due to the pcm wanting engine to run at specific temp for optimal efficiency?

4.3/8" NPT thread-in brass probe included. Where can i install this on my van? It states; Probe typically threads into radiator, water outlet or manifold.

5. Pros and cons about the radiators im considering and e-fan conversion and if its really worth it.

6. Advice about speed controllers, although most benefit I see using one is to have fan turn on when a/c is turned on. (i only see running a/c when fan is already on anyways, specially if the sensor 165F turn off)
I can get a flexikit speed controller for like $50 and understand most things about it except where and how do i tap into an ignition power source?

I live in AZ so heat is a thing and often do steep mountain climbs with lots of weight in back.
I feel the engine is already under powered for such if you stumble upon my previous posts about such concern.
I know there is a lot of controversy with e-fan conversions but even if i gain 5hp/a little mpg along with being a bit quieter than stock fan clutch, I'm willing to go that route for some extra $.
More parts and electronics vs clutch fan means more can go wrong though of course so there is that to consider too.
Any advice about radiators and conversion would be highly appreciated.
Attached photos

 

1: I would not be concerned about the extra 10 amp draw unless you're alternator is already overloaded from other accessories, but when its time to replace the alternator you could keep a larger one in mind to replace with.

2: It appears that it comes with a basic control system of some type, I am not familiar with it this setup though.

3: there's really no harm in the low shut of temp other then running all the time might exceed the duty cycle, not sure how good of system it is. But in regards to the van, there's minimal issues. Just think driving down the road is already force feeding air at X MPH.

4: This would involve some work, maybe someone else can chime in but I would imagine you will need to drill and tap a location for the sensor. Some controllers use a probe you push through the radiator fins. You might get some thing like with with an aftermarket controller. Since you have a 2001 there should be a black spot in the manifold you could drill and tamp where the second temp sensor would go on older engines, but that would require manifold removal.

5: Rockauto sells generally speaking, good quality stuff, from my experience and personally im not a fan of Efans, its very hard/expensive to get an e fan setup that will out perform the stock fan. Van is a new territory for me but anything that's towing or performance I would not do Efans on personally. I've had two systems and they both let me down.

6: I'm not very familiar with what's available for speed controls. It looks like they're controlling fan ground so one could wire a second relay triggered by the a/c to ground the fan when the clutch is active.

I've had a Flexalite kit on my old 5.9 Cummins. My fan clutch was going out so I though Id do electric instead. They could not keep the truck cool towing on hot summer days. I would not do it again on a diesel. I had an FFD kit on my old 96 1500 360. I was fooling around a little carelessly and not paying attention and the truck over heated. I have no disrespect for these companies, i think they sell good products. I just don't feel electric can perform on the level the stock fan does. You probably wont experience this issue in AZ but my FFD kit filled with snow after sitting out in the blizzard and I drove the truck enough it melted and became ice but didn't clean out and in turn froze the fan solid, which the next time i drove the truck it caused the fan motor to overheat/melt, so just another reason I personally will never go electric again.

 

What ever you do I would not go with that alloy works with the e fan in the middle. That shroud blocks off way too much airflow through the radiator and the controller looks to be worthless with the temps it turn on at. 185 is lower than the normal running temps so it would be on at all times. I have run a flex-a-lite unit on my old Ford van and have moved it over to my Dodge. Can't really say I've had any issues with it. I don't live in AZ though. There's more info in the thread with the title A couple of pics just above this one.

 

Thanks dodgetruck2 for all the information, highly appreciate your time for such response and detail.
Jeffersonracing, I was actually checking out your post right after posting mine. I enjoy what you have going on and saw you're doing fan conversion as well. I was also a bit concerned as the shroud did have only a few extra feed through slots for air.
I watched a comparison video of champion radiators vs these alloyworks, most were very impressed with them along with using 5052 aluminum. I really wish they had the 3 row in stock for $180, seems like a great deal.

I probably will end up going with the CSF from rockauto although CSF is made in china now I believe. Unless the 4 row aluminum for same exact price would be better. I did email them to ask tube size dimensions.

As far as cooling im sure both are excellent but Im concerned about vibration and longevity when it comes to brass/copper vs aluminum. As i do a lot off off-road driving in my van down mountain trails.
So if someone could steer me in the right direction for such application which metal would be better that would be great.

On the side note, my battery i got last August is leaking pretty bad out top vents. I just checked voltage at terminals while idle, its around 17-18 volts. Soo, guessing my alternator is spitting out to many volts and over charging battery?

 

Voltage regulator is in the PCM..... Time for an external?

 

You want those extra slots for air to flow through when you're traveling down the road. The rubber flap bends with the flow and thus allows more flow through the radiator. When the fans kick on the flaps make sure the fans are pulling air through the radiator. There is much more area to flow through than that aluminum one you pictured.

What is wrong with your stock radiator? A radiator shop should be able to repair it. Mine needed flushing and the shop told me they don't do that anymore due to EPA rules on the caustic chemicals. The side brackets needed reattached on 3 ends and they took the tank off to clean out the tubes. If it needs a new core they should be able to do that. I have no idea on cost however.

 

Is it possible the ecu isn't seeing actual battery voltage and therefore overcharging?

 

You can try cleaning all the connections, but, the voltage regulators were notorious weak points in the PCM's.....

 

The radiator is pretty much trashed, im okay with just buying a new one. I set to notify me if Alloyworks get the 3row for $180 in stock so seems well worth it.
Although still looking for any information about durability between the two. I feel like aluminum and its welds would be easier to crack from vibration? Could be totally wrong lol.

Right after i replaced my PCM in August last year, thats when my new battery started leaking out the top so seems that HeyYou is on pare with the PCM.
I'm a bit confused how all the works, does the alternator not have a internal voltage regulator then? Or it works in conjunction?
I have 1 year warranty on PCM so looks like ill be sending it back. Most likely my alternator is fine then?

Also thought it was weird when testing the volts with multi meter while idle. I decided to plug in my usb dongle into 12v cig lighter and it showed 14.4v
Does that makes sense with the way the computer routes the signal?

 

So i did search around about building an external regulator. I'm still confused does the alternator not regulate the voltage at all or?
Since i was getting over 17v when idle at the battery, does the prove its my PCM and not the alternator?