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Timing chain - crankshaft rear seal

Old Feb 10, 2025 | 06:45 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Roshi
Perhaps i didn't clarify well enough.
I know i won't be able to do rear seal without removing pan but will i be able to change timing chain and replace oil pan gasket without removing pan fully and not worry about debris?
If so, I'll just leave leak alone. However if i do need to remove pan to do chain and gasket, I'll do rear seal also.

If you want to do the REAR crank seal, you'll probably need to pull either the engine or transmission and it is between the two. Now the front seal is on the timing chain cover. That's part of the gasket set most of the time. Here is when I went through my truck a year or so ago.



I had stuffed paper towels to block the front of the oil pan. This kept most of the trash and junk, and bugs, out. Black RTV is your friend here. I put it in the edge where the front of the oil pan meets the block. This will fill the crack at the join. I also used some to seal the bottom of the timing cover. If the pan wasn't leaking before, a good seal here will keep it from leaking afterward. Keep in mind the long bolts through the water pump go into the water jacket. Those will need sealant on them also to keep from having a coolant leak later.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2025 | 08:18 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
If you want to do the REAR crank seal, you'll probably need to pull either the engine or transmission and it is between the two. Now the front seal is on the timing chain cover. That's part of the gasket set most of the time. Here is when I went through my truck a year or so ago.



I had stuffed paper towels to block the front of the oil pan. This kept most of the trash and junk, and bugs, out. Black RTV is your friend here. I put it in the edge where the front of the oil pan meets the block. This will fill the crack at the join. I also used some to seal the bottom of the timing cover. If the pan wasn't leaking before, a good seal here will keep it from leaking afterward. Keep in mind the long bolts through the water pump go into the water jacket. Those will need sealant on them also to keep from having a coolant leak later.

Should have a two piece rear main seal, in the rear main bearing cap. Pretty sure you can change it without pulling the motor. Likely have to lift it though, to get the pan out of the way.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025 | 02:05 AM
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Thanks for all the tips everyone! Was super easy. The hard part is getting oil pan off. Still trying to figure out a magical way. Confused about jacking it up and how I'll hold up motor while dropping cross member (which is what the motor mount brackets are attached to)


 
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Old Feb 26, 2025 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Roshi
Thanks for all the tips everyone! Was super easy. The hard part is getting oil pan off. Still trying to figure out a magical way. Confused about jacking it up and how I'll hold up motor while dropping cross member (which is what the motor mount brackets are attached to)

Not being there, I can't say, but in the past, when I've needed clearance to drop an oil pan, I undo the engine mounts and lift the engine with a piece of 2X4 to prevent crushing or poking a hole in the oil pan. I then slide pieces of 2X4 under the mounts to hold the engine up. This usually gives enough clearance to drop the pan. I also keep 1X2's around for just that much extra clearance. Just make sure you don't crush the distributor cap when you raise the engine. The transmission mount and driveshaft have enough flex to allow this.

I have NEVER dropped the cross member to drop an oil pan.
 

Last edited by ol' grouch; Feb 26, 2025 at 11:17 AM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn.
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Old Feb 26, 2025 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Not being there, I can't say, but in the past, when I've needed clearance to drop an oil pan, I undo the engine mounts and lift the engine with a piece of 2X4 to prevent crushing or poking a hole in the oil pan. I then slide pieces of 2X4 under the mounts to hold the engine up. This usually gives enough clearance to drop the pan. I also keep 1X2's around for just that much extra clearance. Just make sure you don't crush the distributor cap when you raise the engine. The transmission mount and driveshaft have enough flex to allow this.

I have NEVER dropped the cross member to drop an oil pan.
Gotta watch the fan in shroud as well..... Though, given the front of his motor is disassembled.... not really an issue.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2025 | 05:06 PM
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Make a bracket to attach to the top of the motor and get an engine hoist. You can get a used hoist, use it, then sell it.
 
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