NO - negative - that wouldn't do that

 

The issue with the rods are if it's not adjusted correctly it will pump fluid to the wheel cylinders but won't go back enough to relieve it. If you bench bleed a mc watch the holes when you move the piston, When it comes back you will get air bubbles out of it. Try making the rod shorter that should let the piston come back where it's supposed to be and relieve the pressure.

 

Very helpful, thank you.

I’ve decided to save about 5 bills and try this job myself and ordering a new mc today. Because they’re so inexpensive (around $50 and nowhere near the $285 Pep Boys wanted) I’m gonna swap the mc first. If I still have this problem I’ll try adjusting the rod. Your explanation gives me the understanding of the effect of rod length.

I’m probably wrong but the fact that this problem is intermittent, like gone all winter and then back in the heat of summer and even in summer nonexistent the first few miles until the engine has heated the mc even more- this makes me think (or hope) the problem is the mc. Anyway, with everyone’s help I will know next to shorten the rod and why if it wasn’t the mc.

I’ve watched vids of bench bleeding a new mc but without any setup for that wonder why I can’t just bolt the new empty mc in place, set up the bleed kit tubes and carefully use the brake pedal to do the bleeding keeping an eye to refill more fluid when needed.

Writing this I just had the idea that when I hook up the rod and bolt the empty mc in place it seems I should visually be able to check if the holes you speak of line up. I should be able to figure out where the holes you’re talking about are then.

 

When it is mounted in the vehicle, more often than not, the M/C isn't level.... Which it needs to be for bench bleeding.

 

Thanks

Knowing that will save me from a mistake I know I would have made on my sloped driveway.
I’ll find a flat spot to do the job with a bubble level.

 

This is the booster for my van and the only “rod” I see is on the opposite side of the master cylinder. Anyway.

 

I get it now. It's a big rod on the mc.

 

Should be something inside the booster the goes into that little hole there, to push on the piston when you step on the pedal.

 

It's not shown because it doesn't come with the booster. If you want to check to see if the pushrod length is the issue, all you have to do is loosen the 2 MC mounting nuts and see if the pressure on the front brakes gets relieved.

 

this....