Anyone ever have problems bolting the tension strut back into the lower control arm? (The two that also hold the bumper on)
I can put the front bolt in but the other one is about half a bolt off.
I even tried without the strut bushings on rear to frame so the rod was free to move around.
Lowered and raised lower control arm. The pivot bolt to cross member is loose, i did torque the ball joint castle but down though already but can't see that helping along with loosing the upper control arm since the lower is pretty much stationary on one giant pivot bolt.
I can put both bolts through the tension strut without inserting the arm through the strut frame hole and its quite off.
Both new lower control arms are equally off.
Is there really that much tension where i need to somehow force it? Considering the lower control arm does move much, idk how that's possible.


Bolts #8 on diagram.

 

Here is how off one one bolt is with one bolt in

 

1. If it came apart and it's going back together with the same parts, then everything should fit as before. Have you tried something as simple as turning the bumper around?
2. If you have both sides apart, did parts get swapped from side to side by chance?
3. Are you lining up the correct holes?
4. Is the rod right side up?
5. Do the holes match-up when comparing the old and new control arms?
6. If all else fails, you just might have to pull the lower arm forward until the holes line up.

 

Seems like both new control arms are on the right sides.
Only two holes, id i flip tension strut its completely wrong.
Im actually going to buy a different brand lower control arm and compare but i believe it will be same dimensions as new arm. I was an idiot and threw away old arm already since i had it mostly assembled.
The bumper line up fine, they also line up fine if i don't seat the strut into the frame. So it's a matter of inner and outward fitment vs forward and back.
So it does seem like control arm needs to go forward but idk how considering its one pivot bolt which doesn't adjust.

 

I tried a dorman lower control arm, same problem.
I also took off the control arm, attached the tension rod to it and tried to shove the pivot end up into cross member. After lots of hammering i decided something is off. No way there should be that much tension, the bushings will wear out in a few thousand miles. Since two different brands of lower control arms seem built the same, nothing is bent, its not a procedure install order problem, not tension rod bushing problem. Its possible aftermarket ones are all built a bit out of spec?

I tried as best as i could to drift the hole into the correct spot but its far beyond a small maneuver.
The only thing I can think of is drilling one of the mountain holes in the control arm to make it fit, which i know is probably not a good idea but im all out of ideas.

 

Wonder if there is an updated part number, and that's what is biting you in the keester......

 

I talked to movotech today, they confirmed its built to spec according to their diagrams which of course they cant share. They also compared the 4,000 lb lower control arm bolt holes and said if they fit properly in the control arm i have then the spacing is right and the 3,600 lb lower arm is what i want since the 4k lb one has way different spacing for those bolts.
I still dont see how that much tension could be on that without wearing away the bushing quickly if im somehow able to get them both in.
A mechanic said sounds like something is bent but i don't see any other part possibly being bent causing the issue since its exactly the same on both left and right lower control arms.

 

I have a silly question...have you tried raising and lowering the lower control arm with a jack to see if it changes the angle of that strut rod and causes the holes to line up?

 

Yes, oddly enough seems to get worse at ride height
I am going to try and see what its like once on the wheels again. However waiting for replacement parts, out of the order of 22 parts they sent me 3 mis boxed items (a tie rod and both upper control arms), one defective sleeve.

 

My last option will probably be to get the bolt hole welded close and redrill it where it should be?
Been pulling my hair out over this all day for days trying to figure it out.
There is basically only one YouTube of a Canadian working on these types of vans for suspension. He does mention its a little tight and had to use a drift pin but not impossible like I've seem to encounter.