It's the season again for cleaning that IAC before the cold weather settles in and you can not get to this job easily.

 

I did this two weeks ago, and my van never sounded better. Two weeks later, I'm right back where I started. The van's stalling again, bucking, and occasionally it feels like it's slipped out of gear (when that happens, adding gas does nothing). Any advice for me? As I said, after I cleaned the IAC, it ran like a champ. Do I just need a new IAC? If so, which model do I get?

Thanks in advance!

 

This thread should be a sticky

 

Your symptoms sound more like a fuel pump/pressure issue. I'd start by testing the pressure.

 

It's possible that the IAC has indeed went bad or that the other thingy mounted to the side of the TB called a TPS has gone bad.

If the IAC is really old, it may need replacing since the full travel on the internals wears inside keeping it from full travel.

Also, Alloro's advice is helpful if the engine has higher mileage and wouldn't hurt any knowing if things are working right or not. If you can do the test yourself, great!, if not, a garage will charge some $$$.

 

Hey Stev,

Great tutorial. I have one question for you. I notice in your pictures you used Gum Out Carb and Choke cleaner for this job. Is this is what you would suggest to use or are you better to use something like CRC Map Sensor cleaner so its safer and does not damage the sensor?

Let me know,

Jason

 

By cleaning your IAC and port by his recommendation you won't hurt the map sensor. Spray the towls and cotton swabs and use them to clean with. The MAP sensor is on the other side of the TB and won't even know you been cleaning the back side. You want a cleaner that disolves carbon. If your MAP sensor cleaner does that then you are good otherwise find one that does.

 

Thanks for the response.

Jason

 

For just the IAC Pintel, the Gumout dissolved the carbon build up.

For the sensors, CRC electronic cleaner works best.

 

Today, after getting a little break in the weather, I changed the IAC on my 99 5.2 Dodge Ram 1500. It should be noted that after you take off the Dog House on this year there is no linkage in the way and its just a straight shot to take out the two screws. It should also be noted these are screws with Torx style heads.

I turned the key to the on position and disconnected the negative cable on the battery for over 10 mins. When I connected everything back, the check gauges light came back on and two of the gauges were pegged in opposite directions and also the gas gauge was not reporting correctly. I restarted the van 3 times and finally everything went back to normal and all the warning lights on the van went out.

Then I got in it and drove 14 miles to my local advanced auto parts to get my alternator checked again.

They first checked the battery which was holding 13.5 volts. Next we started the Van and we watched as the alternator fluctuated between 14 to 17 volts but then went back down again. This appears more and more to be a voltage regulator problem which is of course in the PCM. Then the Check engine light came on so we checked the codes. Once again it was flagging the IAC. Since I just replaced the IAC with a brand new one, I am wondering if a faulty voltage regulator in the PCM would cause this. The fluxuation in the output of the alternator comes and goes. I had no issues driving home on the Hwy after the initial problems at the Auto Parts store.

Only think I know that is left to do is to take all the plugs out of the PCM and clean them with contact cleaner. Also I know I should take the PCM down from the mount and clean where it mounts to the body just in case I am getting a bad ground there.

Does anyone have any other ideas.

Jason