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DIY How to clean the IAC

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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Mobile Auto Repair
Yes you should have not messed with the pental. Hopefully it is not messed up.




Try giving it the finger trick before disconnecting the battery. Here is the finger trick:
This is from the same member whom started this thread.


If this does not fix the problem then exchange the IAC and when installing the new one don't adjust the pental.
To Mobile Auto Repair,
Thanks for the quick and informative spot-on reply.

OK, read and reread your post. We held our finger down on 'hole' to the AIC for near 30 seconds, engine would not die. Removed finger, and engine surged to 2000-3000 rpms, then, guess what, settled down to 850, and steady. I'm happy with that. Smooth idle, no surging or dying now. I'm happy. Starts with no foot on the gas.
This spring I'll remove and really clean that throttle body.
Thank you all for this thread. Saved me some bucks and my truck is running smooth now.
 
Attached Thumbnails  DIY How to clean the IAC-1996-dodgeram1500_4x4_hdr.jpg  

Last edited by faheyd; Feb 13, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by faheyd
To Mobile Auto Repair,
Thanks for the quick and informative spot-on reply.

OK, read and reread your post. We held our finger down on 'hole' to the AIC for near 30 seconds, engine would not die. Removed finger, and engine surged to 2000-3000 rpms, then, guess what, settled down to 850, and steady. I'm happy with that. Smooth idle, no surging or dying now. I'm happy. Starts with no foot on the gas.
This spring I'll remove and really clean that throttle body.
Thank you all for this thread. Saved me some bucks and my truck is running smooth now.
Wow, even my finger trick is being still used today! AMAZING.

Glad it worked well. FYI, during cold idle you should see around 900rpms. 850rpm is good too. At warm up, 650rpm +/- 35rpm should be the norm. I have a ScanGauge-2 giving me real-time info about this on the 5.2L/318 Magnum engines.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #63  
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Thanks for the post. One morning my 1999 B3500 van went rough at low rpm, I immediately drove it back home in the driveway and realized that it would not idle anymore. Did some search and found this thread among others.

Removed the IAC. Found that the rounded tip was completely corroded and it was in a completely extended position which was blocking the air from getting in. I could not get the pin to slide back in the module therefore I ordered a brand new one on EBay for $15. Beware some of the stores quote as much as $140 for this device.

Temporarily replaced the IAC without the pin, sleeve and spring so that I could use the van. It idled very high around 2000 rpm.

Finally got the new IAC and installed. Now the van idles perfectly and it even solved an annoying kick back problem in the transmission between 2nd and 3rd gear. I am not sure if the kick back was related to the IAC but somebody mentioned it in this thread.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:39 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by lecygneblanc
Finally got the new IAC and installed. Now the van idles perfectly and it even solved an annoying kick back problem in the transmission between 2nd and 3rd gear. I am not sure if the kick back was related to the IAC but somebody mentioned it in this thread.

Thanks again.
Yep, before cleaning the IAC, the B1500 V6 had the issue of the kick back problem. I can understand now why it did that due to a bad IAC. With the RPMs jumping around from high/low frequently, the transmission controlled by the PCM would cause it to kick back.

Glad this thread helped. It once was a sticky, but since has been left alone.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #65  
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Thanks stev. The way you layed it out was great. It shows exactly what a person is in for when they begin. I had a stall issue as well as a rough idle. This cleared it up for me. My IAC is on the rear of the TB, so I removed the TB. Everything was pretty carbon coated. Now she's clean and runs great. Thanks again
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 09:13 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by capnpat
Thanks stev. The way you layed it out was great. It shows exactly what a person is in for when they begin. I had a stall issue as well as a rough idle. This cleared it up for me. My IAC is on the rear of the TB, so I removed the TB. Everything was pretty carbon coated. Now she's clean and runs great. Thanks again
Another happy Ram Van owner.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #67  
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OK, got a few PMs from people looking for this. So, a bump to the top to help them out.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #68  
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Used this idea on a Chevy car with the 3.4 v-6 a couple of weeks ago. Car would not start run on its own but would if you held the gas pedal down just slightly. I was not convenced that the TPS was bad and figured why not try cleaning its IAC. Owner and her father (a friend of mine) both were very happy that cleaning it solved the problem.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #69  
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Hi All,
Can anybody confirm that there is this sort of plunger on the 1991 318's? Mine has a vacuum contraption in the same location the electronic IAC is shown in the photo and I do not want to risk damaging a gasket opening things up.
Cheers, Steve
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by SteveR
Hi All,
Can anybody confirm that there is this sort of plunger on the 1991 318's? Mine has a vacuum contraption in the same location the electronic IAC is shown in the photo and I do not want to risk damaging a gasket opening things up.
Cheers, Steve
No the 91 does not have this type of throttle body. Do not remove that part on yours.
 
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