Driving today & of course my subs were hittin as they always do. I stopped to get some coffee so shut off the car etc, came back out & one of the subs had stopped hitting. I noticed this right away & decided I'll drive home & figure it out there. Well I stopped again shut off the car & everything seemed okay, so I turned the car back on, now neither one of the subs are hitting! They aren't broken, the wiring is all in tact. The fuse to the batter is okay. Any other suggestions?

 

Can you lightly push on the subs , Do they move Easily ??? Or do they feel gritty , Raspy ???

 

Well a while back the woofer would be on but only one of them would run, I would have to push on the other then it would start kickin. It moves like it always has, it's not gritty but still not stiff due to the age of them. Not extremely old but stretched enough not to just rip. So it still moves smoothly.

Edit:

Alright it's 6:41 a.m. (been gaming most of the night) & I pulled my subs completely outta mycar. Had a weird eperience too, I touched two of the wires from my wiring kit together & it turned on the HU& started playing music. Is that normal?

Alright now for the subs, I have two fuses on my amp but I can't seem to take em out. Never had to so I don't know how to. I took the subs out of the box & all the wires are connected still, box is in good shape, amp is gettin power. I'm going to try again a little bit later obviously when people are awake & my subs can hit... They still move the way they always have, any other suggestions before I reinstall them, it was a pain gettin them out!

 

BUMP... Please help me!

 

Alright, so been nawing at this all day long now, found something different while I was checking the wiring. The positive wires from the subs go to the negative on the amp & the negative go to the positive. Normal or wrong?

 

"The positive wires from the subs go to the negative on the amp & the negative go to the positive."
Well, that could explain quite a bit. The subs, if wired directly (ie: not parallel or series configuration) should always match up ++ and --, reversing the polarity greatly increases the chance of burning out the coils, usually making them rough or difficult to push by hand. A good wiring reference can be found here http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GBRTuMa...rs_wiring.html
You will want to find out what load the subwoofers are (normally 4ohm) and what your amp can handle (normally 2-4ohm). Some "mono" amps may have dual terminals, making wiring easier.

In a previous post, you mentioned that one of your subs you had to push a little to get it started. That indicates that the sub has some sort of small short in the voice coil, that causes problems when it is in its neutral position. This could have caused damage to the amp.

Improper wiring, especially since you drive with them cranking all the time, can also damage the amplifier. This is normally not covered under any warrenty, and the same will go for the subs.

 

If it were the amp would neither one of the subs work? I got one of them to work yesterday but can't get the one I needed to push to work. Is it repairable in the voice-coil? I'll take them out, reconnect them & let you guys know how it works out. I didn't even know it would work AT ALL if the wires were crossed.

 

I might've found the problem, the soldering to the red connection on the sub came out. So as soon as I find a friend with a soldering iron I will resolder it. Now here's another dumb wierd question, on the woofer itself, is the red the positive & the black the negative?

 

red positive, black negative.
sounds like what my MTX Thunder 8000's used to do, when the wires would come undone. It's too much heat being generated.

 

Well I switched the wires so that they go to the correct ports, for a temp fix I electrical-ed taped the wire. So the woofers work! Most of the time, the one that I have to push on still needs to be pushed on. Now what could be the problem with this? Is is repairable?