Brake Job
#1
Brake Job
at 77K miles I think it is time my car get a brake job. I am hearing a scraping noise from the left front and the car just doesn't seem to stop as well as it used to. I think I will replace the rotor and go with Ceramic brake pads (56 bucks at autozone) I work for Autozone so I get a 20% discount, i'm sure the rotors can be turned but ill just buy new ones at 34 bucks a piece cant complain really. Anyways how much of a Job is it? Just take the wheel off unbolt the caliper remove the rotor etc. Anything I should be looking for? Did the 02 R/T coupe with the 3.0L 6 Cylinder come with ABS, if so mine isn't working becuase I have lock the brakes up on numerous occasions (Auto X)
Considering I have had the car for 47K miles and bought it with 30K (A lot of that is highway) and several Auto X's I am impressed how long they lasted.
The car has been sitting a lot over the last year I bought a 99 Corvette that recently got totaled by an "un-documented citizen". So that freed up a lot of time and money that was going to get spent on the vette to fix the stratus. It will start with new brake all around, probably new shock (anybody here can recommend some good ones) and a new front bumper thanks to my moms lack of depth perception. Just for kick I will probably paint the Calipers Red.
Considering I have had the car for 47K miles and bought it with 30K (A lot of that is highway) and several Auto X's I am impressed how long they lasted.
The car has been sitting a lot over the last year I bought a 99 Corvette that recently got totaled by an "un-documented citizen". So that freed up a lot of time and money that was going to get spent on the vette to fix the stratus. It will start with new brake all around, probably new shock (anybody here can recommend some good ones) and a new front bumper thanks to my moms lack of depth perception. Just for kick I will probably paint the Calipers Red.
#2
Holy massive signature... Jesus.
Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
#3
Sorry about the sig...
I work for Autozone I will be getting cross drilled and slotted rotors (Life time warranty on the rotor for 80 bucks a set cant pass that up) and Ceramic brakes, I have the Tech manual and I will likely paint the caliper red.
So a Lifetime Warrant on ceramic pad and cross drilled and slotted rotors all around for less that 300 bucks aint bad.
I work for Autozone I will be getting cross drilled and slotted rotors (Life time warranty on the rotor for 80 bucks a set cant pass that up) and Ceramic brakes, I have the Tech manual and I will likely paint the caliper red.
So a Lifetime Warrant on ceramic pad and cross drilled and slotted rotors all around for less that 300 bucks aint bad.
#4
Holy massive signature... Jesus.
Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
#5
By the way, Cermamic pads are spectacular. Little dust, grab great, and last forever. I just checked mine the other day, and they are still at 80 % after a year.
#6
#7
Here you can see them next to two of the lug studs:
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#8
My car is lowered, so I used a low profile jack, but I use the factory jack spots. (Pinch welds). For the conversion, I was lucky enough to have a lift. Thats a good deal you got for the rotors, I think I need to get a PT job at an auto store . These cars are simple to work on, really. Just keep a metric socket set handy and you are golden.
By the way, Cermamic pads are spectacular. Little dust, grab great, and last forever. I just checked mine the other day, and they are still at 80 % after a year.
By the way, Cermamic pads are spectacular. Little dust, grab great, and last forever. I just checked mine the other day, and they are still at 80 % after a year.
Here is the link for the rotor company not sure what the pricing is on their website but i'm getting mine at cost it's a bit of a hook up through one of our commercial accounts.
http://www.royaltyrotors.com/
What shocks/spring combo did you use to lower your car?
And do you have a picture of the jack point is it just behind the wheel on the frame?
#9
Ill use a rubber mallet had to do the same thing on the Corvette after I cracked a rotor stopping for 170MPH That was an interesting drive home to say the least.
#10
Eibach Sportline springs front and rear.
Homemade rear camber kit (New bolts and washers to space out the upper arm)
I don't have a picture of the pinch welds, but if you look behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels they are hard to miss. Right next to the side skirt. I think there is a diagram under the spare tire cover.
My front rotors dont have the jack bolt holes... I think im going to have to put some heat and pullers on the passenger side. It wont budge.