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Brake Job

Old Sep 26, 2008 | 01:40 AM
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Default Brake Job

at 77K miles I think it is time my car get a brake job. I am hearing a scraping noise from the left front and the car just doesn't seem to stop as well as it used to. I think I will replace the rotor and go with Ceramic brake pads (56 bucks at autozone) I work for Autozone so I get a 20% discount, i'm sure the rotors can be turned but ill just buy new ones at 34 bucks a piece cant complain really. Anyways how much of a Job is it? Just take the wheel off unbolt the caliper remove the rotor etc. Anything I should be looking for? Did the 02 R/T coupe with the 3.0L 6 Cylinder come with ABS, if so mine isn't working becuase I have lock the brakes up on numerous occasions (Auto X)

Considering I have had the car for 47K miles and bought it with 30K (A lot of that is highway) and several Auto X's I am impressed how long they lasted.

The car has been sitting a lot over the last year I bought a 99 Corvette that recently got totaled by an "un-documented citizen". So that freed up a lot of time and money that was going to get spent on the vette to fix the stratus. It will start with new brake all around, probably new shock (anybody here can recommend some good ones) and a new front bumper thanks to my moms lack of depth perception. Just for kick I will probably paint the Calipers Red.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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Holy massive signature... Jesus.

Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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Sorry about the sig...


I work for Autozone I will be getting cross drilled and slotted rotors (Life time warranty on the rotor for 80 bucks a set cant pass that up) and Ceramic brakes, I have the Tech manual and I will likely paint the caliper red.

So a Lifetime Warrant on ceramic pad and cross drilled and slotted rotors all around for less that 300 bucks aint bad.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl01stratcpe
Holy massive signature... Jesus.

Brake job is simple. I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in a few hours; honestly I think it takes longer to take the wheel off to swap rotors and pads.. To make sure there is NO issue, look them up for the same year Eclipse GT. My local auto store couldnt even get me the right lug studs when I asked for the Stratus.
What did you use as a jack point and did you put the stands on the lower A arm?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by joe0121
What did you use as a jack point and did you put the stands on the lower A arm?
My car is lowered, so I used a low profile jack, but I use the factory jack spots. (Pinch welds). For the conversion, I was lucky enough to have a lift. Thats a good deal you got for the rotors, I think I need to get a PT job at an auto store . These cars are simple to work on, really. Just keep a metric socket set handy and you are golden.

By the way, Cermamic pads are spectacular. Little dust, grab great, and last forever. I just checked mine the other day, and they are still at 80 % after a year.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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Ive gone to slotted/drilled rotors on my 02 RT, and its an easy job. The only "sticking" point might be the rear rotors being stuck on there if youve never had them off...i beat the tar out of my rear rotors to get them free.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BadStratRT
Ive gone to slotted/drilled rotors on my 02 RT, and its an easy job. The only "sticking" point might be the rear rotors being stuck on there if youve never had them off...i beat the tar out of my rear rotors to get them free.
Did yours have the jack bolt holes? I bought junk yard parts to do my swap, and they were rusted bad. On the rotor there are two threaded holes; 8mmX1.25, that you thread bolts into to 'push' the rotor off the brake assembly. Very handy.

Here you can see them next to two of the lug studs:
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl01stratcpe
My car is lowered, so I used a low profile jack, but I use the factory jack spots. (Pinch welds). For the conversion, I was lucky enough to have a lift. Thats a good deal you got for the rotors, I think I need to get a PT job at an auto store . These cars are simple to work on, really. Just keep a metric socket set handy and you are golden.

By the way, Cermamic pads are spectacular. Little dust, grab great, and last forever. I just checked mine the other day, and they are still at 80 % after a year.
Yeah Ceramics are the way to go the OEM Pads lasted over 70K not sure if i will even be able to use the lifetime warranty on the new pads before I sell my car.
Here is the link for the rotor company not sure what the pricing is on their website but i'm getting mine at cost it's a bit of a hook up through one of our commercial accounts.
http://www.royaltyrotors.com/

What shocks/spring combo did you use to lower your car?

And do you have a picture of the jack point is it just behind the wheel on the frame?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BadStratRT
Ive gone to slotted/drilled rotors on my 02 RT, and its an easy job. The only "sticking" point might be the rear rotors being stuck on there if youve never had them off...i beat the tar out of my rear rotors to get them free.
Ill use a rubber mallet had to do the same thing on the Corvette after I cracked a rotor stopping for 170MPH That was an interesting drive home to say the least.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by joe0121
What shocks/spring combo did you use to lower your car?

And do you have a picture of the jack point is it just behind the wheel on the frame?
KYB GR-2 Struts front and rear
Eibach Sportline springs front and rear.
Homemade rear camber kit (New bolts and washers to space out the upper arm)

I don't have a picture of the pinch welds, but if you look behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels they are hard to miss. Right next to the side skirt. I think there is a diagram under the spare tire cover.

My front rotors dont have the jack bolt holes... I think im going to have to put some heat and pullers on the passenger side. It wont budge.
 
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