Just thought I'd make a thread to show the rebuild process on my 95 2.0L.















































More to come... questions/comments welcome

 

Cool. Nice job. Any specific reason for the rebuild?
More power, or just a refreshening?
I recently helped a friend rebuild a 99 Camry 4 cyl motor. It really wasn't as complicated as I thought it would be. The owner (My buddies friend) had let the oil get down to under 2 quarts.... One of the bearings on the crankshaft was smoked.

 

The car was performing poorly, burning oil and had a squealing sound upon startup that sounded like a spun bearing.

The clutch was also slipping, engine mounts were pooched, all together it needed an overhaul.

I played with the idea of buying a new car, but decided to spend a little bit and make this one as good as new.

We're about $1300 CAD into it, and I think that's a pretty good deal for everything that's being replaced.

 

Definitely. Considering it will be like new when its all said and done.

 

I'll quickly jot down a list of work that has been done:

Professional machining on the head (valve seats cut, valve grind, valve guides and stem seals, shot peening, gasket surfaces planed)
Block was hot tanked to remove grime, along with a few brackets
Block, head and assorted brackets painted
Cylinders de-glazed
All gaskets and o-rings replaced
New crank and connecting rod bearings
New pistons/pins
New connecting rod end cap bolts
New tensioner pulley
New clutch and flywheel
New spark plug leads
New thermostat
New air filter
New oil filter
New spark plugs
New water pump
New oil pump
New timing belt
New accessory belt
New rad hoses
New engine mounts (F&R)
New CV shaft boots

And before I started this rebuild I had put in a new starter and alternator


I got a little more done today, went out and bought a few more parts that weren't really necessary but hey... I might as well go all out right?

 

That looks very well done. I have to do my timing belt here soon, and what a pain thats going to be with the engine sitting in the car with 2" clearance between the frame. Its much easier to get to when its on a stand.

 

Yeah, here's a little tip:

Remove the front right wheel and go in from the bottom if yours is set up anything like mine... Oh, and be careful with the belt cover, if it's stuck it is still bolted on... Ask me how I know!

It's a pain!

 

I felt a little bit of irregularity in the rotation of the shaft that the clutch is mounted to while rotating it by hand, so I decided to crack the transaxle open and make sure that everything was OK while I had it out of the car... Just to be sure I didn't put it all back into the vehicle and encounter a problem requiring me to haul it all back out again.

This is what I found:





Does somebody want to explain to me who had the grand idea of using a plastic cage on a transmission roller bearing?

It's lucky that it was broken inside the race and held together until I split the cases and the roller just fell out... I know what kind of destruction a stray roller can do inside a gearbox like that!

Lets hope this bearing isn't more than a few bucks at the stealership, and maybe they have an alternative with a steel cage rather than plastic.

 

And for anybody curious about what the inside of their manual transmission looks like, here it is:










Built like lego, not scary to work on at all.