Heater blower only works on high
96 Es. 2.5 v6 auto.
I recently changed the timing belt and water pump. Everything worked properly before I took it apart. When it was all back together I only had high speed on the fan. A buddy advised that it was most likely the resistor. I changed it but the fan still only had high. I used a test light to check for power coming out of the control cluster and there was none on the lower speeds. I had a problem with the controls in the past so I swapped one out from a junkyard car. No luck. I've check as many fuses as I can find with no luck.
Is it possible that I damaged some wiring along the firewall while I was changing the pump and belt? Did I leave something unplugged? Could I have fried the new resistor right out of the box. Are there any other fuses or resistors in the wiring that could be faulty? Is it just fluke that I grabbed another faulted control cluster out of the wreck?
Any advise would be appreciated
I recently changed the timing belt and water pump. Everything worked properly before I took it apart. When it was all back together I only had high speed on the fan. A buddy advised that it was most likely the resistor. I changed it but the fan still only had high. I used a test light to check for power coming out of the control cluster and there was none on the lower speeds. I had a problem with the controls in the past so I swapped one out from a junkyard car. No luck. I've check as many fuses as I can find with no luck.
Is it possible that I damaged some wiring along the firewall while I was changing the pump and belt? Did I leave something unplugged? Could I have fried the new resistor right out of the box. Are there any other fuses or resistors in the wiring that could be faulty? Is it just fluke that I grabbed another faulted control cluster out of the wreck?
Any advise would be appreciated
Noticed the same problem on my mom's 2001 SE; she had not driven it in a couple of months and has given up driving and will be selling it soon, but I would like to fix it before it is put on the market.
Apparently, this is a common failure item; here is a link to its location and replacement:
Replacement of blower motor resistor
There is also a video for this on YouTube. Advance Auto lists them as available in stock at most stores.
Apparently, this is a common failure item; here is a link to its location and replacement:
Replacement of blower motor resistor
There is also a video for this on YouTube. Advance Auto lists them as available in stock at most stores.
Last edited by Overland1; Jan 10, 2013 at 09:09 PM.
Noticed the same problem on my mom's 2001 SE; she had not driven it in a couple of months and has given up driving and will be selling it soon, but I would like to fix it before it is put on the market.
Apparently, this is a common failure item; here is a lonk to its location and replacement:
Replacement of blower motor resistor
There is also a video for this on YouTube. Advance Auto lists them as available in stock at most stores.
Apparently, this is a common failure item; here is a lonk to its location and replacement:
Replacement of blower motor resistor
There is also a video for this on YouTube. Advance Auto lists them as available in stock at most stores.
Except that the Stratus was completely redesigned for '01+, so that link won't be 100% helpful on a 1g Strat (95-00)
I had an electrician at work check the old resistor. he said there is no continuity across the thermal cut out (diode looking thingy). He says if the motor is drawing too much amperage it could blow the new resistor instantly. What amperage should the motor be drawing? We can test it if we know what it's supposed to be drawing and decide if the motor is pooched. I'd like to do that before I fork out $30 more for another resistor...
Thanks
Thanks
Just replaced the resistor in that 2001 Stratus; between the video and printed information, the job was not too difficult. The large nut holding the soft kick panel is a 5/8" (I cannot recall the proper name for the type of nut, but it is a thin metal nut)... use a deep socket and it comes right off and back on easily. The two screws holding the resistor in place have 8 mm heads. Removal of the glove compartment is not required, but made access to the resistor a lot easier.
To widen the slot before installing the new (modified) part, I used a cordless drill and a router bit (have to get a Dremel tool one of these days). With a bit of back and forth grinding, I had adequate space in which to insert the resistor.
Thanks to all here for the help and suggestions; all speeds work properly again.
To widen the slot before installing the new (modified) part, I used a cordless drill and a router bit (have to get a Dremel tool one of these days). With a bit of back and forth grinding, I had adequate space in which to insert the resistor.
Thanks to all here for the help and suggestions; all speeds work properly again.


