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1997 dodge stratus ES hesitation during acceleration

Old Mar 19, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Default 1997 dodge stratus ES hesitation during acceleration

1997 dodge stratus ES hesitation during acceleration. Car sometimes hesitant during acceleration, when pressing on gas it sputters, lag, like no gas then suddenly will regain all power, generaly in spurts, then regains all power. Then again (sometimes) when get to next light and stop, then same thing when accelerating. The problem has been going on for about over 1yr. The car didn't do it when warm outside last summer, seems to do it more when car sits a few days and it rains a lot. I had the TPS sensor replaced, Cat converter replaced (it was bad). About 4 mouths ago took it in again as car being very bad, took it in had full tune up, wires and sparks replaced, dist cap replaced, Diagnostic showed miss firing, os sensor bad. Os 2 sensor was replaced (was bad for several years, engine light for this.) After getting car back it drove fine, then couple day after, in morning it was hard start then stalled once. After restarting it drove fine. No problems. After 2 months suddenly, same problem again after going to start, accelerating problem pulling out of parking lot for split sec. Again, Just recently it is having bad acceleration (from stop) for about 20 minutes after car started until full warmed up. After car is warmed no acceleration problems noticeable. Accelerates fine, car seems to have good power. Car has about 114,000 miles. Gets about 17-18 MPG in town, hardly driven on freeway. I tired bring in shops who have no clue what it is. When took to dodge dealership shop car wasn't acting up so they said they had no idea. I tried to describe to my best ability what is going on. Engine light has not been back on since tune up. Need help.....what part is bad, how to fix. Thanks in Advance.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BubbaJoe2013
1997 dodge stratus ES hesitation during acceleration. Car sometimes hesitant during acceleration, when pressing on gas it sputters, lag, like no gas then suddenly will regain all power, generaly in spurts, then regains all power. Then again (sometimes) when get to next light and stop, then same thing when accelerating. The problem has been going on for about over 1yr.
The car didn't do it when warm outside last summer, seems to do it more when car sits a few days and it rains a lot.
I had the TPS sensor replaced, Cat converter replaced (it was bad). About 4 mouths ago took it in again as car being very bad, took it in had full tune up, wires and sparks replaced, dist cap replaced,
Diagnostic showed miss firing, os sensor bad. Os 2 sensor was replaced (was bad for several years, engine light for this.)
After getting car back it drove fine, then couple day after, in morning it was hard start then stalled once. After restarting it drove fine. No problems.
After 2 months suddenly, same problem again after going to start, accelerating problem pulling out of parking lot for split sec. Again, Just recently it is having bad acceleration (from stop) for about 20 minutes after car started until full warmed up.
After car is warmed no acceleration problems noticeable. Accelerates fine, car seems to have good power. Car has about 114,000 miles. Gets about 17-18 MPG in town, hardly driven on freeway. I tired bring in shops who have no clue what it is. When took to dodge dealership shop car wasn't acting up so they said they had no idea. I tried to describe to my best ability what is going on. Engine light has not been back on since tune up. Need help.....what part is bad, how to fix. Thanks in Advance.
What engine? How many miles sence you seen a code?
 

Last edited by D Ryan; Mar 19, 2013 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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V6 2.5 no engine light since tuneup, less then 500 miles, code was bad OS 2 code (OS sensor replaced), and shop said misfire i believe in 2 cylinders.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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I'm trying to figure witch way to go after this! I think fuel related!

Doe's your 2.5 have a schrader valve on the fuel rail?

A guess! Intermintant fuel pump failure!

It sounds like it happens most the time under a load! But has stalled in the morning.

Do you think you could just start the car in the morning and after awhile it start acting up or perferrably stall?

I had this happen to me in our 95 olds , it went on for 6 months, might go for a few days before it would happen, It finely got to where the car would just die while driving down the hi-way!

The way found the actual problem was to place a AMP meter in fuel pump circuit and watch the meter, The Amps would go WAY UP just before the engine would die.

Some guys hook up a fuel pressure tester and just watch it! The pressure would drop off , just before the actual problem happened.

I have read that some guys have gone as far as tapeing the fuel pressure guage the the windshild and drive the car until it happens. You could have someone watch the gauge or video tape it if need be. A bad ground can cause all this! Wore out contacts inside your relay could be a problem! Are your pump is wore out!
 

Last edited by D Ryan; Mar 19, 2013 at 06:40 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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it had bad ground problem but they replaced wires (battery was discharge after couple days) doesn't stall in the morning just starts up but sounds like its missing a little during idle. I can drive and it wont stale. From start happen twice at same light when making left turn aprox 3 miles from home, first time car died completely on me (before when had low battery). Was towed to dodge dealer but they couldnt find anything related, left there for a day. They said ran in idle for couple hours and drove around, I drove it to second repair shop. This is where some grounding out wire was replaced, and the cat converter. this shop and other said unlikely for fuel filter as would be problems under idle. (i would replace but it is over the gas tank). It ran fine for little, happen again driving about mile or so from house around from a stop and go. time just moved very slowly with no power, spudering, then over 8mph or 3000rpm, regain full power. I replace TPS, drove it around and of course nothing. Car sat for 3 days. Had to run errands and it acted up again, about 1 mile from house, and then at the next stop light. I have also driven it out neighborhood, to try to replicate symptoms with little success. Did little bit but not so much. I decided to take it in other shop, they hook to machine and they found misfire and o2 sensor bad. I had already bought new sensor but to difficult for myself to replace. So they gave car full tuneup, replace wire, dist cap. Car seemed to run fine for couple month, say about 2 but I dont drive much. While out in about it was acting up, again at a stop light. Majority time while turning left, but has happen while turning right. This happen to me 3 times past 2 weeks. I have doubt rain is a factor, but when sitting for couple days and raining. It seems worse. I search on internet to find maybe EGR valve possible sticking open. Other person told be Coil tower could be cracked. I would not know what part is that as can only find Ignition Coil. While car is acting up, when driving at low rpm I will floor the gas to see if lag, slight spudder for split second but not so much.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 07:41 PM
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Have you ever replaced your fuel pump?

My direction is still fuel related!

Looking at your wiring diagram it appears that fuse #8 is the target!

Is your fuse box on the drive's side next to the door? only being accessed with the door open?

Here is where you could moniter the circuit but you would have to rig something up to get it to fit with the door closed. This could be done with something a cheap as a harbor freight giveaway amp meter connected in series!! Watch that Meter, better yet have someone else watch it.

HF sells a amp reader I dont think it will work while driving the car with the door closed, not enough room.

This is it:
http://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp-...ter-67724.html
 

Last edited by D Ryan; Mar 19, 2013 at 08:00 PM. Reason: add
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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no never replaced fuel pump, I guess seems it could be that, I have read before fuel filter or pump. seems both are above the fuel tank, one website (ehow) says under the rear seat there is an access panel, i wish but doubt. I dont think there will be an easy way to do this for myself. thanks
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 10:12 PM
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Joe, it might not be the pump! It could be the relay or something as simple as the ground wire that comes from the pump to the frame.

This is why we test!! To keep from throwing parts at it!$$$$$$$$$$

It may not be any of the above!

If the test results are good we go a different direction!

Do you have a volt meter you can stick into that #8 fuse socket?
You have to arrange your meter to read AMPS!

I guessing but I think you should see about 5 amps with the eng running normally! Maybe someone else can help with this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does your car have a fuel test port? Maybe someone can help with this also.

After that test you need to do a voltage drop test on that ground wire coming from the pump to the frame! Maybe someone one else can help with its location! These cars are getting older and the orignall connections get corroded, this cause's high resistance and your pump will slow down (not enough pressure, not enough volume)!
 

Last edited by D Ryan; Mar 20, 2013 at 12:27 AM. Reason: delet:I'll see if I can find injector pluse info! (wrong direction)
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