When I turn the ignition to start it always blows the #8 starter fuse on my 2002 Status 2.7L automatic. For awhile, I could replace the fuse and it would start. I had the battery replaced as it went bad. I had the starter tested and it failed at the parts store. I've connected the new starter and if I only connect just the small trigger switch cable to the starter and leave the hot battery cable disconnected it still blows the fuse. I've also removed the fuel pump relay as it's inline with the #8 fuse. I measured 12V at the trigger switch connector when I turn ignition to start. The wiring under the fuse/relay box looks fine. Could the new starter be bad? Any suggestions?

Attached is the wiring schematic that I got from the dealership.

 

Is your + battery cable only have 1 wire?

Try this , connect bat + to the starter, connect small wire also! (you can use jumper wires for this) Remove start relay, remove fuel pump relay! Turn key to start!

Place a voltmeter set to amps in the slots for fuse #8, when you turn the key to start position. what reading do you get?

I dont have the book for your car, any more diagrams? ign stw perhaps!!!

This video is very close to what you have going on! It about "no crank" it was traced to the ign stw on the control side (the yellow wire in his picture) It looks tome that you have a short to ground somewhere !

 

My + battery cable goes to fuse+relay box and starter. There's also a wire that connects from alternator to hot wire of starter, which I've disconnected.

When you say "connect bat + to the starter, connect small wire also! (you can use jumper wires for this)". Do you mean short the starer hot wire to the control wire? Won't this cause the solenoid and starter to engage?

I was going to buy a remote stater switch from auto parts store to see if it'll crank and not blow the fuse without the control wire connected.

The video is good, it's very similar to mine. I'm thinking I have a short also but haven't found it yet.

Here's another schematic I got for the ignition switch.

What should I expect for the amp reading?

 

Here's what were trying to do ! Isolate fuel pump relay and starter relay circuits! If the fuse dont blow the problem is in 1 of those circuits.

The Starter:
Connect the batt cable!

If you want to try your new starter, just get a piece of wire and connect a jumper from bat + to the control post on starter, starter should crank!

Question: Doe's the fuse blow in the RUN position? Are is it just the crank position?

If the wire is shorted to ground expect alot of amps! That wire is hot all the time!!!!!!!Your blowing a 20 amp fuse.

 

Fuse only blows with starer relay installed not fuel pump relay and when I turn ignition to crank/start position.

Thanks for the help!

 

Do a short to ground test using a test light:

Key in OFF position
Starter relay removed
connect test light to battery +
make contact with relay socket terminal that feeds the S post on the stater.
Done

If test light comes on there is a short in that wire.


Did you ever have any codes in this car?

When you turn the ignition to the ON position (only) do you see the SES light in the dash?

 

Test light comes on. I find that it also lights on the same relay socket on the fuel pump relay, not sure if that's related to the issue.

I connected a remote start switch. Starter cranks and fuse doesn't blow.

I measured 0.2 ohms from the relay socket trigger to the end of that wire which would connect to the S post of the starter.

Could the issue be the powertrain control module (see wiring diagram in earlier reply).

I see that the check engine light is on. I turn the key on/off three times and I get codes P1684 and P1282. From searching it seems its battery disconnected and fuel pump relay which both have been disconnected.

 

If you had the small wire leading to the starter disconnected from the solnoid and you probed the right socket with the 12V test light it found a ground and lit that light! You do all of this with the key in OFF position.

I asked about the engine light to see if your computer was alive!

If this part of the circuit proves ok then we move on!

I dont know about the codes, look them up!

When you used the remote start that proves the starter is OK!

Do test again!!!

 

I'm positive I probed the correct trigger socket of the relay. If I put the test light in there and the lead connected to ground, when I turn ignition to start the test light comes on and I measured 12V as well.

So, then I moved the test light clip to battery + and the light lit when I probed the trigger socket relay with ignition in OFF position.

That wire looks good and goes into a large bundled wrapped wiring. Should I remove the wiring wrap?

Codes are ok - http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/

 

This is not the test we were doing! But I have ask! Why didnt the fuse blow?
Do you have Haynes manual for this car?







[/QUOTE]So, then I moved the test light clip to battery + and the light lit when I probed the trigger socket relay with ignition in OFF position.[/QUOTE]

Was small wire disconnected from starter when you did this?

[/QUOTE]That wire looks good and goes into a large bundled wrapped wiring. Should I remove the wiring wrap?[/QUOTE]

Not yet! Get strong flashlight, mirror look for damaged area, place's where wires might rub on something or get melted from heat of exhaust, Try and look under the fuse box, feel with your hand in places you can't see. I know this is not easy to do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Doing all this depends on if that small wire was disconnected or not! Your diagram says this wire is Brown (BR)! Do not get this mistaken for the TAN wire that go to computer

Codes are ok - http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/[/QUOTE]