a vacuum leak would make a sucking noise under the hood..as for a bad IAC, i am honestly not sure about that..maybe shoot thump a pm and ask him? hes a chrysler tech.

as for getting the ssytem flushed, they have to bleed it, and any shop should bleed the system anytime any complex brake work is done. i unfortunately dont recall what it costs...

 

no vacuum then. ill just send him a pm linking this thread, seeing what he says.


so since the brake fluid is dirty and **** and everything if it is a reasonable price, i should just get the brake system flushed. if that doesn't work, i have a much bigger problem on hand.

 

If the fluid is that dirty I would agree in getting it flushed. Brake fluid is what is called hydroscopic so it not only breaks down after a while it also can absorb water. You can try bleeding them yourself and see if that helps but not sure if thats gonna help but worth a try. I would lean towards a master cylinder problem causing the sticking if its both front brakes. For the noise problem like you said this is the first time you've run regular oil in the winter. regular oil is slightly thiker then synthetic oil and doesn't flow as well. The regular oil may not be getting in as well as the mobil1 was causing a slight noise until warm. It may also help your oil flicker light problem.

 

OK well the ****ing brake lights killed my battery again today. the weird thing is when i turned the car off i checked to make sure they were off so when i come out of work it is dead, before i even turn it on, right when we got the battery connected the lights were on. the kid who jumped me knows a decent amount about car says the noise is probably my alternator. this might be very possible considering i thought it was coming from the belt originally, which correct me if I'm wrong is connected to the alternator. i might not be describing the noise the best, it is probably something you have to hear to understand. right i have never run synthetic in winter, until hopefully tomorrow if i can find my damn oil. Walmart was sold out of the 5 quart jugs which is cheaper. tomorrow ill try alot of things with fixing my car such as hopefully oil change with cleaning and ****, maybe bleeding the brakes, maybe brake flush.

Thanks once again for all the much needed help.

if the master cylinder was the problem would i still be able to stop? any idea how much this would cost to be fixed.

 

maybe it is the brake booster?

 

The brake booster would actually be a very likely cause. It may also explain your high idle. Sometimes a booster will develope an internal vacuum leak.

 

OK the brakes have been fixed. first we bleeded and flushed the brake lines. this resulted in my braking power coming back, and fixed the drag. the light was still on and my battery kept dying so i took it to the dealer. they fixed it for $73.59 total. the light problem was a bad switch.

I'm pretty sure the ticking is the belt like i originally thought. now to figure out how to change it,

the oil light blinking has been greatly reduced since i put my mobil1 ep in. still there, but very minimal, and I'm just ignoring it now.