I need some help with the transmission problem I'm having. I just got done rebuilding the transmission for my 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee. It is a 5. 9 Limited model so it came stock with the 46RE. It failed on me back in April after 150,000 miles and I just recently got around rebuilding it.

I made many upgrades to it including a powerpack in the front and rear clutches, sonnax servo/accumulator, APS rear servo and torque convertor, and other miscellaneous goodies. Throughout the entire process, I spent more time waiting on parts to be delivered to me than actually doing work to the transmission. It has been very frustrating.

Anyways I finally got the transmission put back in the jeep yesterday morning. I took it for test drive and unfortunately it will not shift out of first gear. Nothing feels like it is slipping. It actually pulls very hard in both first and reverse. I tried adjusting the TV cable in both directions and that did not help. I have heard that when this problem happens to others they can just rev the engine higher and get it to make a 1-3 shift. I was unable to force a 1-3 shift despite taking my engine to 5500 RPM and then completely letting off the throttle.

I feared that it was the infamous governor pressure solenoid on these transmissions that was causing the problem. However no CEL was being set so I decided to do a hydraulic pressure test to confirm. If anything the idle pressure may just be a tad high (But this could just be the error of my $10 gauge). After that it seems that governor pressure tracks with vehicle speed very smoothly.

My research also pointed me to something with the intermediate band. I triple checked the adjustment on this band before putting it back in the vehicle but I have not rechecked since installation. I can do that tomorrow if anybody thinks there is merit. However I am having a hard time believing this is the problem because if it were I would still be a force a 1-3 shift correct?

While I have the transmission apart I took the time to do a very thorough cleaning of the valve body. Every valve was meticulously cleaned as were all the valve passages. I lubricated all the valves during reassembly and ensured they slid freely and in their bores.

Lastly before buttoning the transmission up I performed an air test through all the clutch and servo passages. Everything worked as it should and all leakage rates were very good.

I am just completely stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me. What could the problem be?

I fear that if I don't figure out the problem soon I'm going to have to take this to a shop and fork out $1000 to have them fix the problem. I've actually removed and reinstalled this transmission twice in the past month and a half. I'm sick and tired of doing it and so if this isn't a simple problem to fix it is more than likely going to a shop.

 

What is is your line pressure reading? And if you drive the jeep, can you manually upshift from low to drive. If you can, then the problem maybe the governor and transducer. If it doesn't, then the problem maybe the valve body.

 

U r referring To what I am reading at the accumulator port correct? I haven't been able to check that yet because I cannot reach the port. It is very tight with my 3 inch exhaust.

In regards to your other question - no. No matter what I do I cannot get this thing to shift. I think the rear band is okay because when I leave it in drive range and spin up the RPM Then let off it just coasts. But when I do the same thing in manual low range I do get engine braking.

I have heard some people say that you can disconnect the TV cable entirely and take it for a test drive. If it shifts then then you know it is a TV cable adjustment problem. Similarly people have said you can drive around with the electrical connector disconnected. I have no idea what the theory is there. Would either of these two tests be diagnostically relevant?

 

Did you do the overhaul yourself or did you have a shop do the overhaul?

 

Did it myself. I'm sure that doesn't bode well but I felt like I did a good job.

 

How did you adjust the front and rear kick down bands? Also did you perform an air check into the clutch ports to see if they were applying? I will check with your update on monday. I'm going to bed.

 

Both bands were tightened to 72 in-lbs after tranny was completely assembled (just before installing vb and pan). I have a 3.8 ratio lever installed so I backed off 2 turns on the front and 1-7/8 turns on the rear.

I did perform air tests on all components. Both on the individual pieces and after the transmission was completely reassembled. They were good. All components moved with air pressure and leakage rates were very good. Low/reverse servo had ZERO leakage in fact. I also blew out all case passages before reassembly.

 

ok so this might be a stupid question but have you checked all your fuses? Sounds silly I know like Im trying to send you in a circle but the reason I ask is because a couple years back I picked up a extremely clean GMC K1500 for CHEAP because the previous owner couldn't figure out why it wasnt shift even after they had a rebuilt trans put in.......after lots of trouble shooting it ended up being a blown fuse related to the brakes that caused the problem. Changed fuse, thing shifted and ran beautifully.

I know, different vehicle and manufacturer but I'm just saying it sounds like you did a good job on the rebuild, have double and triple checked most likely problems...so maybe its something stupid simple?