Hello all,
I love my ’91 Spirit it was purchased new back in the day and has been a rather reliable car. There has been some extensive work done on it over the years: trans has been rebuilt, timing belt, water pump, valves, valve covers, radiator have all been replaced. I may be neglecting some odds and ends due to lack of memory. Currently the front and rear main seals are blown and hemorrhaging oil as fast as it goes in. I have been looking into repairing this myself and am wondering if anyone out there can provide any helpful hints or tips. I have also been told about plugs in the back side of the cam that are prone to leaking, any thoughts. Ive been quoted a wide range of lofty prices for repairs from local garages, such as it is I don’t have the money to have these problems professionally resolved. If I cant fix it the car will unfortunately be sent off for scrap (not my decision). I feel that this car deserves my time and effort to bring it back to health. Can anyone point me to any relevant information? Thank you forum.

 

i guess the first question would be which engine does it have. just so you know the rear seal would require removal of the trans. if the front seal is gone you might as well replace the timing belt while you are in there. they dont really like oil.

 

My '91 Spirit has a 3.0L V6. I know Mitsubishi modified this engine just about every year of its ten year production run, I don't know exactly what one I have. I've found some how-to videos covering the topic of replacing the rear main in other vehicles with a similar transaxle setup, I figure the procedure is about the same. I know I should replace the timing belt, however about a year ago the water pump froze on start up, taking with it the timing belt and bending several valve stems. All of the affected workings were replaced at that time. It leaves me wondering why the topic of the front and rear main wasn't brought up then?

 

the front seal is fairly easy but the timing belt and pulleys need to come off. i was going to say if it was the 3.0 to change the water pump while you were in there but if it is only a year old than it will be fine. take a close look at the belt as it really does not like oil. if oil has soaked into it go ahead and replace it. it would be cheap insurance. the rear seal requires the trans to be out of the way. it is not difficult to change but there is a plate that the seal sits in that comes off for a seal change. the seal kit should come with all the new gaskets. take a close look at the flex plate around where it bolts to the crankshaft. if you see any cracks, change it. one can be had from a junk yard for 25 to 30 bucks. i have not had to replace cam seals and i have had some high milage 3.0l's. i have changed a few front seals on these motors in minivans. i have changed one rear seal that went bad when the flexplate broke on my current daily driver, a 2000 caravan.

 

Thank you for your replies and the info therein. I will post updates as to my progress thought it will be a few weeks possibly. i am still trying to round up needed tools to undertake this project, and maybe a little bit warmer weather. thank you again...

 

Everything has gone up-gas, groceries, you name it-used cars are no exception. The prices for a GOOD used car are crazy right now. Better give this one a lot of time and effort or else you may be stuck between a rock and a hard place. If all else fails, at least sell it to a salvage yard-there, it may have a chance at life as parts or a fixie.

 

it looks as though my timing belt has jumped, im not all to sure how to find tdc for cylinder number one...

front cam

rear cam

crankshaft sprocket

any advice on the best way to proceed...

 

you are definitely NOT timed correctly . front cam is ok, crank off 1 tooth, rear cam off 1 tooth. So you need to fix it.

 

i would agree with 22dodge. i have put quite a few of those belts on and it is easy to have one or two of the pulleys a tooth off. the trick is to have them all lined up with any slack worked around to the tensioner side so when you rest the tesion it does not pull one of more pulley around.

 

i don't have any pics my camera wont focus correctly. it wasn't too hard to get the timing on the crank and cam sprockets back in line, it only took three or so attempts to get the timing belt on while keeping all the timing marks in place. the engine runs smoothly and there is no longer oil leaking from the front main seal. however there is a separate problem. it sounds worse at start up, there is an even violent knocking/klattering sound coming from either a messed up valve, valve guide, lifter, coming i think from the rear head assembly. ive taken the rear valve cover off but saw no sign of anything out of place in the rocker assembly. im not sure what is causing it. whatever it is it doesn't seem to affect the overall function of the engine in any noticeably drastic way other than the above mentioned sound. the knocking sound will increase directly with an increase in rpms. there is no hesitation or loss of power from the engine. i am hesitant to push the engine much past 2500rpm for fear that something catastrophic may occur.