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  #21  
Old 12-31-2005, 02:53 AM
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Default RE: P-Bodies Unite!

ORIGINAL: King Calibra

I'd say the High compression route would be your best bet to start off with, but keep in mind that when you bump up the compression, valve clearance becomes an issue. Your non-interferance engine becomes an interferance-type engine, meaning that if your timing belt breaks, valve hits piston and... boom! dead engine!
Just dawned on me that I failed to mention I wanted to bump compression up via the pistons ie higher compression pistons which would mean all I'd have to do is have valve reliefs as part of the piston design (my engine builder pointed that out to me)
 
  #22  
Old 01-05-2006, 03:52 PM
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Default RE: P-Bodies Unite!

Just joined up. I have a 92 shadow ES with a 3.0 liter. Haven't done any mods yet, so it's all stock. Checked the internet a bit and it sems the only common mods are a throttle body upgrade, and a swapping out the air filter. Any other ideas for simpler, budget mods?

~Tim~
 
  #23  
Old 01-05-2006, 07:38 PM
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Build a cold air intake for it, for the 3.0 its alot easier to do than it is for the 2.2 or 2.5....makes a world of a difference in throttle responce and gives a extra kick of power.
 
  #24  
Old 01-18-2006, 04:49 PM
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Default RE: P-Bodies Unite!

ok for the 3.0 and all other ppl I could get in trouble for this but you need to go to www.allpar.com. I am also a memeber of that site, let me tell you what, They have tried and tested true mods right down all wheel drive shadows and acclaims. Trust me its worth a shot to look..

Now for the 3.0l go to a junkyard get a fuel rail and injectors off a 87-89 3.0l caravan and the plenum, rplace the o-rings, they leak.. the injectors are superior to any other years, they flow more fuel than any other years (strictless emissions, more fuel, more power.) the plenum if you take your time and port it out you get more air combined witha 3.3l/3.8l throttle body your come close to 200hp since your motor already put out near 170hp.

The 3.0l and the 2.2l witha tII turbo and intercooler puts out almost the same, hell within 5hp to be exact. the 2.2l witha turbo and intercooler, is by far superrior toa stock 3.0l wieht vs hp vs torque. buta turbo 3.0l from a mitsu can not be topped, if you wanna go that way. www.allpar.com has the stats and info on this ****, Trust me go there and just brouse it, Its wortht eh time.
 
  #25  
Old 02-19-2006, 04:04 PM
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make sure you gasket match head and intake and if you haven't done it yet remove the balance shafts if it is a 2.5 35 lbs wieght less friction and gain 5% to 10% horse gain 2.5 mopar 4's don't need them they only added them in there to grandma your car to make it run smoother at idle but make sure you plug the oil holes on the bottom of the block!
 
  #26  
Old 02-19-2006, 04:14 PM
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ORIGINAL: Mystyk67

Hey i have another mod idea, its kinda complicated to do but I think I could make it happen Let me run it by you guys, How about a waste gate turbo system one that will not let any exhaust into the turbo until a cerain dialed in rpm range, now have that turbo bolted to a single pioint throttle body, witha modified injector program into the computer that would allow the injector to compinsate for boosted conditions at that and all conditions so that the car would not have to run rich all the time. Also the turbo would be connected similar to the exhaust waste gate as to only when the turbo kicks on the gate closes to allow boost to the engine during deceleration and normal unboosted condition the gate would allow the engine to breathe NA

I have the diagram already drawn and most of the electronics to use. You would have to use a 91 i think or nwer single point, the fuel pressure for those is 37 psi, or better yet use a 2.8l gm 220 tbi two injectors, one firse constant and the other firse off a switch that activates whent he cutout for the NA systems engages.

you may have to make a new intake for the volume of air that would be coming in max cfm Intake size = max turbo cfm flow not boost this way the intake can hold a full charge if you will at all times of what teh motor can take per full firing order.
All you would need is the cfm filling capability of the turbo boost to the cylinder inf cfm, then mix the fuel accordingly to create a perfect 14.7-1 or richer mixture. The most sofistcation that you would need is a program for the injectors(programmiable) and a fuel system that can read boost and increase fuel pressure and volume in a split second, (fuel computer override program..)
uh yeah only one important thing though you must use higher octane fuel when you use turbo on n/a engine detonation is the key to a quick blow up engine i run 5gallons of 91 mixed with 1 gallon of 110 in my laser xt this brings my octane to about 96 it has a 1989 datona es 2.5 with garret t3 and log style intake and i'm producing about 190 horses at 4900 rpm but this engine only has 8.5:1 compression if you use a non-turbo engine and turbo it you will probbily use 94 or 98 octane to reduce spark knock or guanteed piston melt down will occur!
 
  #27  
Old 02-19-2006, 04:25 PM
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ORIGINAL: King Calibra

Have fun wiring the Stealth ECU into a shadow. If you can find yourself a how-to on the 'Net somewhere, and are pretty confident with wiring, then I'd say go for it! Otherwise, you may be biting off more than you can chew.

I'd say the High compression route would be your best bet to start off with, but keep in mind that when you bump up the compression, valve clearance becomes an issue. Your non-interferance engine becomes an interferance-type engine, meaning that if your timing belt breaks, valve hits piston and... boom! dead engine!
here is somthing to raise compression on a 2.5 or 2.2 "NAPA also sells a engine saver shim (non cross drilled engines only) part number is 3688S - manufactured by Dana Victor."victor is recomended for chryslers over fel-pro they acculy made the original set for chrysler now i don't know if you can find one for the 3.0 but my head gasket set from napa costed me only $68 bucks check and see if there is one for the 3.0 and let me know
 



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