Winter driving skills are something that has to be learned. It's a whole different ball game. Fwd is better than any rwd and almost as good as awd. Why? Simple. because the weight of the engine and more than 50% of the car is sitting over the driving wheels, which in the case of fwd are also the steering wheels. Fwd's ability to go in the snow is amazing. A car with rwd and a front engine, does not usually put more than 45% of the weight on the driving wheels. A rear engine rear drive like an old bug has excellent traction, but cannot steer because the front is too light. Awd is almost more dangerous because the acceleration available leads you to believe you have more traction than you do, and people end up going too fast and can't stop or make the corners. Driving any car in the snow takes practice to learn how it handles. The main problem with fwd, is throttle-on understeer which rapidly becomes throttle-off oversteer if you are not a smooth driver. When the snow hits, I highly recommend finding a vacant parking lot and practicing with the throttle during turns to get a feel for it.

Also besides the fact that any and all aluminum wheels absolutey do not like salt, you should always have dedicated snow tires and wheels for the winter. They not only help you go, but they help you stop and turn too. The difference is dramatic. One thing you need to look for and will probably notice while shopping for a snow tire is that they are usually going to be on the tall and narrow side. This is for a reason. Tall and narrow works better. So you may end up with a smaller rim like a 15 or 16 and taller tire to still have the same overall diameter. You will have to suck up your pride for the winter and go with the ugly rims and tall skinny tires, but you will feel very smart for doing so as you drive confidently past all the ***** who cant get out of thier own way because they thought there all season tires and fancy rims would be ok. Just hope they don't run into you because they cant stop.

Most aluminum rims are clear coated. Usually through stone chips or whatever, the salt gets under the clear coat and corrosion starts to creep along like the roots of a tree. The clear will start to bubble and then the rim will start to pit and get ugly. Aluminum should not be used in the winter. I doubt you would experience cracking but what can and does happen is the tire bead area becomes so corroded the tire can no longer seal to the rim and it will lose air. There are only temporary fixes for this and it this point the rim is garbage.

 

when i lived in colorado there was a course that i took on how to drive in the snow. i honestly think it was one of the best driving courses i've ever taken. it's saved me numerous times, and if you have it availible to you i highly suggest taking it. everyone thinks that they're good drivers in the snow and then this class shows you how bad you really are lol. very humbling.

 

Um...you guy's have me pretty worried now....

I'm checking into snow tires...on 15" steelies...

 

Amy, where in Colorado did you live/where did you take that course at?? It's been 20 years since I lived in Montana, and I could use a refresher course before I have to spend a winter in Colorado.

Dusty

 

i lived in conifer, which is just outside of evegreen in the foothills near morris canyon. the course was givenin evergreen, i don't remember who offered it though. i haven't lived in colorado in 10 years now so my memory is a little rustylol. i think i found it through the local 4h club out there (had friends that were into horses). the dmv can probably give you info too, they're very helpful out there actually and actually answer questions....

 

Thanks!!!

Dusty

 

Before I sold mine *sob sob* I had a set of Dunlop Wintersport M2's on my stock wheels and kept my Toyo's on my Enkei RS-V's for summer. Michigan winters can get nasty, so dedicated winter rubber was mandatory. I got lucky and found a set of winter tires at a local tire place that were used for about 50 miles and returned because the guy said they were too noisy (tire noise is not an issue with an SRT-4). If you have a local tire place near you (not one of the big chain retailers) check and see if you can get a set of take offs for a decent price....but salted roads will wreak havoc on your wheels. After 2 winters with my stock wheels, they pretty much needed to be sanded bare and repainted.

Speaking of winter driving classes, back in teh stone age when I took drivers raining, it was 6 weeks long, 2 weeks were spent on winter driving. They actually wet down teh parking lot at our school with a water/dish soap mix (very slick) and taught us how to drive in it. Even more fun though, were teh lessons I got from a professional "precision driver". While onsite supporting the cars for Buick during a couple commercials, I became friends with the "precision driver" that was doing the close up driving shots for them. He was teh guy that taught me how to do a nasty burnout with a manual trans and rear drive without stalling the car. The last time I got to use that little nugget of knowledge was at teh Woodward Dream Cruise when a young friend of my brother-in-law asked me to show him how to do a burnout in his 94 Camaro (6-speed). Unfortunately, BadstratRT's video of me doing it was too dark to post in sights and sounds. You can hear it, but you cant see ****.

Anyway, sorry for the thread jack...back on topic please.

Danny

 

**Running to the store more wheels and tires**

Thanks for the help!

 

well i read in the owners manual you need appropriate warm up fully warmed up before driving to prevent wear to the turbo i always give my car a 10 minute warm up to ensure full operating temps unless its hot out much faster but let it warm up longer in winter. thats just my opinion

 

In your area, I would do the same as well.....

Dusty