1/4 Mile Track Times
leaving the line? ist time ...horrible , but i was really nervous it was my first time and i actually went throught the water pit or whatever it is called, and i spun really bad becaused i popped the clutch. but the second and third time i rode the clutch out of the hole , there was a little tire spin but not as much as the first time. one of my friends made a video of the second run but i not sure how to get it on my computer yet.
Yeah problem with a front driver is that when you leave it transfers weight off of your front tires unto your rears, you want this with a rear wheel drive vehicle, not a front wheel driver. Nothing you can really do about it. Riding the clutch is the best, though it will take its toll on it sooner or later and have to be replaced. Another thing i use reguarly, and i do not recommend this to anyone, is that i leave the start line in 2nd gear, its hard on the transmission and the whole driveline for that matter, but if done right you can leave the line hard with out a lot of wheel slip, i usely bring the motor up to around 2500 to 3000rpms and , not side step the clutch, just release it faster than you normaly would to keep from bogging and as soon as i get moving i start pushing the gas pedal to the floor. you gain some time as you dont have to shift to second, you started there, and you will leave the line fast and hard when you master this, with very little wheel spin. And if your local strip like most has some form of hump at the lights to do this you can use your e-brake to hold the car, but you have to be able to release it fast, when the light turns green, for me its second nature, i get it slammed down before the last yellow lights and have never red lighted or rolled out of the staging line before the green, another thing to do is stage short, meaning roll up till you loose your staging lights, the two white lights that tell you're in the beams, when it blinks out, slowly back your car up till you get both lights again, then your set and it helps your 60 foot times alot...Again don't do the second gear launch if your worried about walking to work or school!
ok don't listen to andy as usual. starting a run in 2nd? i don't think so. talk about massive bogging. yea, you'll have no wheel spin, but you'll also have like a 3.0 60' lol. and there's no way in hell a 15x10 will fit on an srt, i don't care what offset it is. not to mention that an srt doesn't have enough power to warrant a 10" rim, or the power to utilize that size of a tire even if you do manage to cram it on the car.
launching is best at about 2k on street tires. drive around the water box. you were correct in riding the clutch, if you just dump it you'll just spin and get tons of wheel hop.
launching is best at about 2k on street tires. drive around the water box. you were correct in riding the clutch, if you just dump it you'll just spin and get tons of wheel hop.
ORIGINAL: andybuzz2u
Yeah problem with a front driver is that when you leave it transfers weight off of your front tires unto your rears, you want this with a rear wheel drive vehicle, not a front wheel driver. Nothing you can really do about it. Riding the clutch is the best, though it will take its toll on it sooner or later and have to be replaced. Another thing i use reguarly, and i do not recommend this to anyone, is that i leave the start line in 2nd gear, its hard on the transmission and the whole driveline for that matter, but if done right you can leave the line hard with out a lot of wheel slip, i usely bring the motor up to around 2500 to 3000rpms and , not side step the clutch, just release it faster than you normaly would to keep from bogging and as soon as i get moving i start pushing the gas pedal to the floor. you gain some time as you dont have to shift to second, you started there, and you will leave the line fast and hard when you master this, with very little wheel spin. And if your local strip like most has some form of hump at the lights to do this you can use your e-brake to hold the car, but you have to be able to release it fast, when the light turns green, for me its second nature, i get it slammed down before the last yellow lights and have never red lighted or rolled out of the staging line before the green, another thing to do is stage short, meaning roll up till you loose your staging lights, the two white lights that tell you're in the beams, when it blinks out, slowly back your car up till you get both lights again, then your set and it helps your 60 foot times alot...Again don't do the second gear launch if your worried about walking to work or school!
Yeah problem with a front driver is that when you leave it transfers weight off of your front tires unto your rears, you want this with a rear wheel drive vehicle, not a front wheel driver. Nothing you can really do about it. Riding the clutch is the best, though it will take its toll on it sooner or later and have to be replaced. Another thing i use reguarly, and i do not recommend this to anyone, is that i leave the start line in 2nd gear, its hard on the transmission and the whole driveline for that matter, but if done right you can leave the line hard with out a lot of wheel slip, i usely bring the motor up to around 2500 to 3000rpms and , not side step the clutch, just release it faster than you normaly would to keep from bogging and as soon as i get moving i start pushing the gas pedal to the floor. you gain some time as you dont have to shift to second, you started there, and you will leave the line fast and hard when you master this, with very little wheel spin. And if your local strip like most has some form of hump at the lights to do this you can use your e-brake to hold the car, but you have to be able to release it fast, when the light turns green, for me its second nature, i get it slammed down before the last yellow lights and have never red lighted or rolled out of the staging line before the green, another thing to do is stage short, meaning roll up till you loose your staging lights, the two white lights that tell you're in the beams, when it blinks out, slowly back your car up till you get both lights again, then your set and it helps your 60 foot times alot...Again don't do the second gear launch if your worried about walking to work or school!
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launching a standard in 2nd gear is the oldest, oldest...older than me, tricks used by drag racers.....if you take off like you normally drive...you have to get crazy with it...if you get to crazy you blow it up simple enough. And 15x10's will fit the srt4 but you will have only a 1/2 inch between the fender and the tire...like i said its not for street use...i got news..if you think you will ever get into the tens or even sub 11's on street tires and a 6 or 7.5 rim.....then ill be alone for sometime. you need to watch what the rwd cars at the strip are doing..you no the funky '72 nova thats five diffrent colors or still primer gray, the one doing 9's....do you see him on street tires with a 6 or 7.5 inch wide rim.....nope dont think so..dosent matter if the drive wheels are the rear or front..if you make 100whp or 1000whp...what good is it if you cant get the power to the ground.....but don't believe me, im not asking you to.....do some checking next time your at the track...most guys will talk about there ride and how they race it...and some want.
launching in 2nd is only good on a car where you can preload the engine. unless every srt owner out there goes and gets a two-step, it's not going to help our cars. second, you can't just throw any old sized tires on a car and expect it to work. there are certain power levels that you need to be at in order to fully use a certain sized tire. sure i could throw on a 10.5" slick on my car, but i would hurt my times more than help. you don't see a 9 second car on a 6.5" rim because it's beyond the limits of the car. a 6.5" rim in well within the limits of the power of our cars, even for a low 12s pass as a 225 series tire can fit on it just fine. for a slick or a 400hp+ car a 7" rim is needed, even an 8". there's no reason to go higher than that at the current power levels of our cars.
I agree if you are putting out masive hp you need the wider tires. But an average SRT-4 is putting out nowhere near enough torque to need a 10" wide tire. Unless you are putting out Andy's type of HP, you don't need it.
Warning: Don't try this at home, it is meant for professional B.S. artists only, like Andy:
Next time you run, try coating you tires in Cow dung, you have enough of it, that will make um grip real good, should get ya into the high 7's, low 8's with that trick. See Andy I share my "top secret" tricks.
Warning: Don't try this at home, it is meant for professional B.S. artists only, like Andy:
Next time you run, try coating you tires in Cow dung, you have enough of it, that will make um grip real good, should get ya into the high 7's, low 8's with that trick. See Andy I share my "top secret" tricks.
You preload the engine, get in the boost range, by revving it up to 3 grand, come out on the clutch at the same time your putting the pedal down till its floored, simple enough, and it works there is no bog cause you already have the engine reved up and the turbo is making boost not vacum, and you have mid range power on tap, which is enough to over come any bog by starting in 2nd gear and that is on less shift you will have to do, the 60 foot itmes will be higher but the trap speed and times, the times is what decides who wins the race at the end of the quarter, not the 60 foot mark or 1/8 mile unless your running an 1/8 mile track...I think i could put my car back bone stock, except for the stage 1, and win against 90% of all modded srt4's..out of all the threads i have read on how to get this car off the line only four made any sense, and of these four, three of them are running in the mid 11's and one is in the lower 11's and will probaly be in the 10's before summer. about the rims.....230 thru 300whp....stock tires/wheels ok....300 thru 350 whp..225/45/17 with at least a 7.5 rim. 350 and up.....anyting under a 8 inch wide rim, and including tha,t will be good for masive burnouts, you can impress you just cant go.
ORIGINAL: andybuzz2u
You preload the engine, get in the boost range, by revving it up to 3 grand, come out on the clutch at the same time your putting the pedal down till its floored, simple enough, and it works there is no bog cause you already have the engine reved up and the turbo is making boost not vacum, and you have mid range power on tap, which is enough to over come any bog by starting in 2nd gear and that is on less shift you will have to do, the 60 foot itmes will be higher but the trap speed and times, the times is what decides who wins the race at the end of the quarter, not the 60 foot mark or 1/8 mile unless your running an 1/8 mile track...I think i could put my car back bone stock, except for the stage 1, and win against 90% of all modded srt4's..out of all the threads i have read on how to get this car off the line only four made any sense, and of these four, three of them are running in the mid 11's and one is in the lower 11's and will probaly be in the 10's before summer. about the rims.....230 thru 300whp....stock tires/wheels ok....300 thru 350 whp..225/45/17 with at least a 7.5 rim. 350 and up.....anyting under a 8 inch wide rim, and including tha,t will be good for masive burnouts, you can impress you just cant go.
You preload the engine, get in the boost range, by revving it up to 3 grand, come out on the clutch at the same time your putting the pedal down till its floored, simple enough, and it works there is no bog cause you already have the engine reved up and the turbo is making boost not vacum, and you have mid range power on tap, which is enough to over come any bog by starting in 2nd gear and that is on less shift you will have to do, the 60 foot itmes will be higher but the trap speed and times, the times is what decides who wins the race at the end of the quarter, not the 60 foot mark or 1/8 mile unless your running an 1/8 mile track...I think i could put my car back bone stock, except for the stage 1, and win against 90% of all modded srt4's..out of all the threads i have read on how to get this car off the line only four made any sense, and of these four, three of them are running in the mid 11's and one is in the lower 11's and will probaly be in the 10's before summer. about the rims.....230 thru 300whp....stock tires/wheels ok....300 thru 350 whp..225/45/17 with at least a 7.5 rim. 350 and up.....anyting under a 8 inch wide rim, and including tha,t will be good for masive burnouts, you can impress you just cant go.


