car reving itself
#1
car reving itself
I was wondering if anyone else was haveing this problem or know about it. When ever i am driving and i put the car in neutral and its just crusin the rpm startes going down like its supposed to, but usually when it hits about 2 it startes going back up to like 2 1/2. Pretty much the car is accelarating itself. Also, sometimes when i am stopped at a light, the car startes to like what it seems to lose power, almost like its going to die on me. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
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#8
RE: car reving itself
Phew now that PSIChick said it I feel relieved. Go to a dealer that sells Vipers, if they sell a Viper they have a Viper tech, who usually knows more than the damned shop foreman (if he isnt the SF). Is a simple issue, and its a TSB I believe, you should be set to go with that, once they fix the wire with the correct lengthened one, youll be good to go.
Im still wondering how I havent had this issue....hmmm itll be coming my way sometime soon LMAO
Im still wondering how I havent had this issue....hmmm itll be coming my way sometime soon LMAO
#10
RE: car reving itself
here is a fix from another forum, see if its what you have.
The car would surge, idle rough then sometimes it would be gone. it proggresively got worse though!
So I had time last night after getting out of work on my 12hr shift at the shop.
Having the emanage has been a great tool especially in this case since I can see TPS voltage sweep.
Last night testing things out jean noticed that when I slammed the car door the voltage with car off swept up to .86mv then came back down to .71mv(idle/throttle off).
we start looking into the Emanage wiring, found nothing. so we decide to start the car and wiggle the tps wires and sure enough the car would idle rough. At this point the emanage Throttle screen was reading voltage as high as 4.96v and 100% throttle position.
the car revved up to about 2500rpms, then it read .94mv and about 23% on the throttle screen of the emanage. This would also cycle making the car idle/stumble by itself.
I rip out the fluke DMM and start testing wires (hector helped on testing procedure as he wires aircraft too). Figured out we have a bad wire.
I seperated the wires by taking the black tape off. now with the wires seperated I was able to single out each wire. there is a solid orange wire, Orange/dark blue stripe wire and a black wire with a greyish blue thin stripe.
While the car idled i wiggled each wire seperately, come to find out that the bad wire was in fact the black/greyish blue wire! Voltage was everywhere...
I decided to take the black wire out of the tps connector and this is very simple to do if you have a precision flat head screwdriver around.
If you look at the TPS connector (white in color) you will notice it has a yellow lock type device in it. this yellow lock can be removed with the tiny screwdriver. once this yellow lock is removed, you look into the connector where the black wire lays in. there you have to use the tiny screwdriver again to raise the white plastic pin lock that holds the metal wire pin to the plastic connector. once this little metal pin lock is raised you can push the black wire out the bottom of the connector by pushing on the metal pin from the inside of the connector (dont worry the green rubber water seal supposed to come out too).
Now what I did, I took notice of the wire and why would it be causing problems. While looking at the wire i noticed it was a bit limp and kept on going to the same curved position all the time. Right there and then I knew that the wire was severed internally and the only thing keeping it together was the insulation. I carefully stripped off the insulation and sure enough the top portion with metal pin of the wire fell right onto the floor.
I soldered the pieces back together, Used some heat shrink wrapping and put the connector back together.
TPS connector got plugged back into the TPS. Turn the key to the acc position. I put a small pin that i inserted into the connector and orange/dark blue wire, from there i used the DMM's + probe to read the volatage and sure enough it was reading .713mv at idle position and 3.81v at WOT position on the connector end.
I verified this with the emanage and emanage reads .71mv and 3.80v.
Put everything back together, start the car up and vroom....no high idle, stumble while playing with wires or anything.
So instead of having a dealer tell me they can't find the issue, I cured it myself.
This was not a case of the engine moving and pulling the wire out but of the wire being bent to shape for such a long time by the factory taping. after a while the wire was getting weaker and weaker. kinda when you keep bending a wire or piece of metal to break it apart.
BTW, don't forget to diconnect the battery when performing electrical work on the car.
"The Part Number is 5013998AA for a tps wiring harness. It comes with a connector (which doesn't work with our sensor), 3 or 4 wires with the terminals, and heatshrink tubing. The list price is $22
The car would surge, idle rough then sometimes it would be gone. it proggresively got worse though!
So I had time last night after getting out of work on my 12hr shift at the shop.
Having the emanage has been a great tool especially in this case since I can see TPS voltage sweep.
Last night testing things out jean noticed that when I slammed the car door the voltage with car off swept up to .86mv then came back down to .71mv(idle/throttle off).
we start looking into the Emanage wiring, found nothing. so we decide to start the car and wiggle the tps wires and sure enough the car would idle rough. At this point the emanage Throttle screen was reading voltage as high as 4.96v and 100% throttle position.
the car revved up to about 2500rpms, then it read .94mv and about 23% on the throttle screen of the emanage. This would also cycle making the car idle/stumble by itself.
I rip out the fluke DMM and start testing wires (hector helped on testing procedure as he wires aircraft too). Figured out we have a bad wire.
I seperated the wires by taking the black tape off. now with the wires seperated I was able to single out each wire. there is a solid orange wire, Orange/dark blue stripe wire and a black wire with a greyish blue thin stripe.
While the car idled i wiggled each wire seperately, come to find out that the bad wire was in fact the black/greyish blue wire! Voltage was everywhere...
I decided to take the black wire out of the tps connector and this is very simple to do if you have a precision flat head screwdriver around.
If you look at the TPS connector (white in color) you will notice it has a yellow lock type device in it. this yellow lock can be removed with the tiny screwdriver. once this yellow lock is removed, you look into the connector where the black wire lays in. there you have to use the tiny screwdriver again to raise the white plastic pin lock that holds the metal wire pin to the plastic connector. once this little metal pin lock is raised you can push the black wire out the bottom of the connector by pushing on the metal pin from the inside of the connector (dont worry the green rubber water seal supposed to come out too).
Now what I did, I took notice of the wire and why would it be causing problems. While looking at the wire i noticed it was a bit limp and kept on going to the same curved position all the time. Right there and then I knew that the wire was severed internally and the only thing keeping it together was the insulation. I carefully stripped off the insulation and sure enough the top portion with metal pin of the wire fell right onto the floor.
I soldered the pieces back together, Used some heat shrink wrapping and put the connector back together.
TPS connector got plugged back into the TPS. Turn the key to the acc position. I put a small pin that i inserted into the connector and orange/dark blue wire, from there i used the DMM's + probe to read the volatage and sure enough it was reading .713mv at idle position and 3.81v at WOT position on the connector end.
I verified this with the emanage and emanage reads .71mv and 3.80v.
Put everything back together, start the car up and vroom....no high idle, stumble while playing with wires or anything.
So instead of having a dealer tell me they can't find the issue, I cured it myself.
This was not a case of the engine moving and pulling the wire out but of the wire being bent to shape for such a long time by the factory taping. after a while the wire was getting weaker and weaker. kinda when you keep bending a wire or piece of metal to break it apart.
BTW, don't forget to diconnect the battery when performing electrical work on the car.
"The Part Number is 5013998AA for a tps wiring harness. It comes with a connector (which doesn't work with our sensor), 3 or 4 wires with the terminals, and heatshrink tubing. The list price is $22